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Just don’t get any brake fluid on that clear, it will stain/wash right off. Only catalyzed clear/paints have a decent chance of standing up to brake fluid and even then it’s no sure bet.
Rattle can is just minimal solids in a solvent, when the solvent evaporates it leaves behind the solids. Catalyzed clear, the higher the quality the more solids and UV protection it contains. It has very minimal solvent and when activated it chemically hardens by cross linking the solids creating a very durable paint, any solvent is there just to allow it to be sprayed.
Clear coating those surfaces is a good idea, just be aware of solvent sensitivity.
Just to clarify, nothing in that photo is anodized. Anodizing is an oxide layer on aluminum. The RPO B85 trim parts are anodized, for example.
The gold coating on steel parts is alodine. That brake combo valve is brass and that's just the natural color.
The problem with clear coat paint is that you can't sand the surface to promote adhesion. I've had bad experiences with clear coat peeling from smooth surfaces.
I've been using Sharkhide on polished aluminum and alodine steel. So far so good.
Also, consider the Eastwoom master cylinder paint for the cast iron M/C. It's pretty much brake fluid resistant.
"alodine" ...that's very interesting, never heard that before.
I guess I knew it wasn't really anodized...but didn't know that term.
Thanks!
And yeah...that eastwood paint is great.
-peter
Well, alodine is apparently a brand name (owned by Henkel, who also makes Loctite) for chromate conversion coating. I didn't know that until just now. We always called it by the brand name when I was at Hughes.
Chromate conversion coatings are commonly applied to everyday items such as screws, hardware and tools. They usually impart a distinctively iridescent, greenish-yellow color to otherwise white or gray metals. The coating has a complex composition including chromiumsalts, and a complex structure.[2]
Chromate conversion coatings are commonly applied to everyday items such as screws, hardware and tools. They usually impart a distinctively iridescent, greenish-yellow color to otherwise white or gray metals. The coating has a complex composition including chromiumsalts, and a complex structure.[2]
Wiki makes it sound like "3 in 1" oil. "We" (major airline Overhaul Base) had chemical tanks and procedures that were standardized to satisfy Boeing, Douglas, McDonnel-Douglas, Airbus and probably Convair. I think the protective coating was dictated by where the part would reside. The "plating department" had tanks dedicated for individual processes. Passivating, Alodine, Unbrite-Cad, Chrome (Industrial), Copper, and perhaps others. Some processes/steels required ovens to bake parts the reduce the risk of "hydrogen-embrittlement". Some parts being repaired were cleaned mechanically (blasting with various materials) or electro-chemical process (such as chrome removal).
Wiki makes it sound like "3 in 1" oil. "We" (major airline Overhaul Base) had chemical tanks and procedures that were standardized to satisfy Boeing, Douglas, McDonnel-Douglas, Airbus and probably Convair. I think the protective coating was dictated by where the part would reside. The "plating department" had tanks dedicated for individual processes. Passivating, Alodine, Unbrite-Cad, Chrome (Industrial), Copper, and perhaps others. Some processes/steels required ovens to bake parts the reduce the risk of "hydrogen-embrittlement". Some parts being repaired were cleaned mechanically (blasting with various materials) or electro-chemical process (such as chrome removal).
My experience was also with aluminum because that's all we used for spacecraft parts (well, besides beryllium, titanium, and graphite ).
Right. But to all the masses you cannot anodized non aluminum . I am a huge anodizing guy.
Yes I understand. You zinc plate steel parts and for the ones who don't know,the silver zinc is called clear and the yellow/gold is simply yellow zinc. Then you have black oxides &, phosphates.. These are the most common coverings used on these cars. Cadmium was used on a lot of OEM parts but is hard to get done,so clear zinc is most used to duplicate cadmium.
Good luck with that Sharkhide. I stripped, then polished, the aluminum wheels on my Silverado. It lasted exactly 3 drives in the snow/salt. They need to be taken all the way down with 80 grit again. As a comparison, I used Duplicolor Wheel Clear on the back, and they're still good a year and a half later.
Good luck with that Sharkhide. I stripped, then polished, the aluminum wheels on my Silverado. It lasted exactly 3 drives in the snow/salt. They need to be taken all the way down with 80 grit again. As a comparison, I used Duplicolor Wheel Clear on the back, and they're still good a year and a half later.
Well, the TTOs on my 67 Delta don't exactly get driven in snow...
The first clue about potential quality problems might have been the misspelling of "peel" on the Sharkhide label.
And yet, no "quality problems" here. There is a fairly specific set of instructions that are supposed to be followed before application. Just sayin'...
May 6th, 2021, 07:48 AM
):
.1265[2] The coating serves as a corrosion inhibitor, as a primer to improve the adherence of paints and adhesives,[2] as a decorative finish, or to preserve electrical conductivity. It also provides some resistance to abrasion and light chemical attack (e. g. from dirty fingers) on soft metals.[2]
"We" (major airline Overhaul Base) had chemical tanks and procedures that were standardized to satisfy Boeing, Douglas, McDonnel-Douglas, Airbus and probably Convair. I think the protective coating was dictated by where the part would reside. The "plating department" had tanks dedicated for individual processes. Passivating, Alodine, Unbrite-Cad, Chrome (Industrial), Copper, and perhaps others. Some processes/steels required ovens to bake parts the reduce the risk of "hydrogen-embrittlement". Some parts being repaired were cleaned mechanically (blasting with various materials) or electro-chemical process (such as chrome removal). 
