Center console romval
April 11th, 2016, 03:16 AM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 99
Center console romval
I remove my center console to replace the carpet...disconnect all cables. Tried to start the car with everything out, nothing. Is this suppose to happen or for some reason has my battery died? It started fine on Friday
April 11th, 2016, 07:00 PM
#10
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mississippi
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Console
I still have the console out have not put it back together...was just trying to start it...by the way no lights horn etc...it acts like the battery is dead..once I put her back together I willgive it a shot
April 13th, 2016, 04:05 AM
#14
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 310
I believe what Starfire (Alan) means by "battery cable gave out", is it lost continuity/power.
With you stating none of your other electrical components functioning, first, I'd verify your battery is fully charged and your lights, horns, etc. are operational before trying to troubleshoot other components.
From there, lets looks at this 1974 Cutlass Supreme...
By stating "everything out", are you referring to everything related to the console or everything pertaining to the interior that needs to be disconnected/unplugged and taken out for a complete carpet replacement?
Before I expound on this, I'll wait for your input on "everything out" and how you're trying to start the car.
With you stating none of your other electrical components functioning, first, I'd verify your battery is fully charged and your lights, horns, etc. are operational before trying to troubleshoot other components.
From there, lets looks at this 1974 Cutlass Supreme...
Before I expound on this, I'll wait for your input on "everything out" and how you're trying to start the car.
Last edited by macrover; April 14th, 2016 at 10:02 AM.
April 13th, 2016, 05:33 PM
#15
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 1,226
cublex, One of the best things you can do to help the people who are trying to troubleshoot problems for you, is to put your location in your profile. It doesn't have to be your exact latitude and longitude, but even if you put "Finland" or "East Texas" or whatever country or state you are from, that would be helpful. I find that I tend to be much more precise in my word usage when I know I am dealing with someone who's first language is not English.
macrover, yes, that is exactly what I was trying to say (I did so poorly
). I appreciate the assist! I think if his battery was just low, it would still dimly light the lights or at least make the starter move a little. Normally when you've first run a battery down, if you let it sit for a couple of hours it will try to move the starter, it won't succeed, but you can hear it try. The reason I suspect his negative battery cable is because this exact thing happened to my '68 Cutlass (minus the interior removal). Took me days of trying different things (all to no avail) finally in frustration and desperation I replaced the negative battery cable (it was the easier of the two battery cables to get to) and it started working again. If he had lights and such, I would first suspect something in the starting circuit, but as he appears to have no power to the car at all, he needs to start with the battery and cables. The negative cable is easy to get at, and much cheaper than a battery, so it is the logical place (in my mind) to start. (but, as steverw said, the charge status of the battery should also be checked).
macrover, yes, that is exactly what I was trying to say (I did so poorly
). I appreciate the assist! I think if his battery was just low, it would still dimly light the lights or at least make the starter move a little. Normally when you've first run a battery down, if you let it sit for a couple of hours it will try to move the starter, it won't succeed, but you can hear it try. The reason I suspect his negative battery cable is because this exact thing happened to my '68 Cutlass (minus the interior removal). Took me days of trying different things (all to no avail) finally in frustration and desperation I replaced the negative battery cable (it was the easier of the two battery cables to get to) and it started working again. If he had lights and such, I would first suspect something in the starting circuit, but as he appears to have no power to the car at all, he needs to start with the battery and cables. The negative cable is easy to get at, and much cheaper than a battery, so it is the logical place (in my mind) to start. (but, as steverw said, the charge status of the battery should also be checked).
Last edited by starfire; April 13th, 2016 at 05:35 PM.
April 13th, 2016, 07:48 PM
#16
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 99
Center Console
cublex, One of the best things you can do to help the people who are trying to troubleshoot problems for you, is to put your location in your profile. It doesn't have to be your exact latitude and longitude, but even if you put "Finland" or "East Texas" or whatever country or state you are from, that would be helpful. I find that I tend to be much more precise in my word usage when I know I am dealing with someone who's first language is not English.
macrover, yes, that is exactly what I was trying to say (I did so poorly ). I appreciate the assist! I think if his battery was just low, it would still dimly light the lights or at least make the starter move a little. Normally when you've first run a battery down, if you let it sit for a couple of hours it will try to move the starter, it won't succeed, but you can hear it try. The reason I suspect his negative battery cable is because this exact thing happened to my '68 Cutlass (minus the interior removal). Took me days of trying different things (all to no avail) finally in frustration and desperation I replaced the negative battery cable (it was the easier of the two battery cables to get to) and it started working again. If he had lights and such, I would first suspect something in the starting circuit, but as he appears to have no power to the car at all, he needs to start with the battery and cables. The negative cable is easy to get at, and much cheaper than a battery, so it is the logical place (in my mind) to start. (but, as steverw said, the charge status of the battery should also be checked).
macrover, yes, that is exactly what I was trying to say (I did so poorly
). I appreciate the assist! I think if his battery was just low, it would still dimly light the lights or at least make the starter move a little. Normally when you've first run a battery down, if you let it sit for a couple of hours it will try to move the starter, it won't succeed, but you can hear it try. The reason I suspect his negative battery cable is because this exact thing happened to my '68 Cutlass (minus the interior removal). Took me days of trying different things (all to no avail) finally in frustration and desperation I replaced the negative battery cable (it was the easier of the two battery cables to get to) and it started working again. If he had lights and such, I would first suspect something in the starting circuit, but as he appears to have no power to the car at all, he needs to start with the battery and cables. The negative cable is easy to get at, and much cheaper than a battery, so it is the logical place (in my mind) to start. (but, as steverw said, the charge status of the battery should also be checked).
April 14th, 2016, 03:39 AM
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 310
Alan, no problem...that's what we're here for. 
Cublex, good to hear you charged the battery and got it started. If you're going to be working on the car or interior with the door(s) open for an extended amount of time, disconnect the battery until it's needed.
Not sure if "everything out" is still the case or not with your interior
but based on the amount of information, details, and answers provided, I'd say the 1974 specific troubleshooting methods are not needed at this point and you're good to go.
Cublex, good to hear you charged the battery and got it started. If you're going to be working on the car or interior with the door(s) open for an extended amount of time, disconnect the battery until it's needed.
Not sure if "everything out" is still the case or not with your interior
but based on the amount of information, details, and answers provided, I'd say the 1974 specific troubleshooting methods are not needed at this point and you're good to go.
April 14th, 2016, 06:47 AM
#18
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 1,226
It does sound like the battery needs to be replaced. That's expensive, but at least it is easy.
A tip for you. Whenever you are working on the car and you are going to have doors or trunk open for a long time, or if you are working on anything electrical, you should disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. This will prevent your battery from running down and prevent you from shorting out an electrical system.
A tip for you. Whenever you are working on the car and you are going to have doors or trunk open for a long time, or if you are working on anything electrical, you should disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. This will prevent your battery from running down and prevent you from shorting out an electrical system.
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