General Discussion Discuss your Oldsmobile or other car-related topics.

Can't get car into gear

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 29, 2011 | 05:54 PM
  #1  
MaxDog's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 194
From: Fabulous Las Vegas
Can't get car into gear

I have had my 72 cutlass, 350/350, automatic, up on ramps for about three weeks. In the last week, I pulled the pan, fixed two stripped pan bolts, put pan back on, and re-filled the transmission with fluid.

I just started it up for the first time in three weeks, ran great, let it warm up for about 5 mins, and it won't go into reverse or drive. I let it run about another 5 mins, and it still won't go into gear.

WOuld the fact that the front wheels have been up on ramps for the last three weeks have anything to do with this? Or maybe I jacked-up the linkage?

Any suggestions? Thanks.
Old Dec 29, 2011 | 06:11 PM
  #2  
Vistabrat72's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 451
From: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
First the basics! How much fluid came out? How much went back in? If it sat for a few weeks, then was drained after a coupe, of weeks, it is very possible that quite a bit of oil drained back from the torque converter. It is very possible that well over 2 quarts drained back from the converter! So if you only put back in three quarts of oil (roughly as the book states) then as soon as you would start the car cold the oil would get pumped back into the converter, leaving the pan dry of oil, or what would be there would be a foamy mess due to cavitation. Start the engine, pull the stick and wipe it. Replace back into the tube. Remove it, and check very carefully both sides of the dipstick. It is very easy to be tricked by 'splash on' the stick. What you want to see is a solid line on both sides of the dipstick near the tip at least. When you check a cold transmission there should be a good 3/4 of an inch solid oil marking on the dipstick. A full warm transmission would of course indicate proper level between the 'ADD' and 'FULL' marks. 'Warm' in general means a good 10 to 15 minutes driving at roughly 70 degrees, or letting the engine idle until the thermostat opens, meaning heat from the engine has at least begun to warm up the transmission. In all honesty it sounds like you may be low on oil, or, like you said, could the rod have been knocked out of the shifter lever on the side of the unit? Check, check, double check! Regards, Howie
Old Dec 29, 2011 | 06:33 PM
  #3  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
I tend to agree.

Keep adding transmission fluid until the fluid is where it should be on the dipstick - it can take a surprising number of quarts to get from the bottom of the stick to the ADD line.

- Eric
Old Dec 29, 2011 | 06:42 PM
  #4  
Redog's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,145
From: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
I know my work truck back in the late 90's would stick in gear like that. Had to put my foot out te door and push forward to shift into gear
Old Dec 29, 2011 | 06:56 PM
  #5  
Allan R's Avatar
Just an Olds Guy
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Originally Posted by MaxDog
...........it won't go into reverse or drive. I let it run about another 5 mins, and it still won't go into gear.
Ok, something really basic. When you say it wont go into gear do you mean the transmission selector won't move? Or do you mean the selector will move to RNDSL but the transmission won't engage?
If it's the second, I agree with Vistabrat and Eric. I had that happen a couple of times with low trans fluid. Top it off and you should be good.
If it just won't move the selector lever? You bent something or didn't hook it up right.
Old Dec 29, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #6  
Vistabrat72's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 451
From: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by Allan R
Ok, something really basic. When you say it wont go into gear do you mean the transmission selector won't move? Or do you mean the selector will move to RNDSL but the transmission won't engage?
If it's the second, I agree with Vistabrat and Eric. I had that happen a couple of times with low trans fluid. Top it off and you should be good.
If it just won't move the selector lever? You bent something or didn't hook it up right.
Very good point Allan, this is a lot more specific then what I mentioned about the PRNDSL thing, meaning I should have asked if it was stuck or something like that. This is the whole point of the forum, folks helping each other along! Regards, Howie
Old Dec 29, 2011 | 08:10 PM
  #7  
Redog's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,145
From: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
My response was based on the selector not mOving
Old Dec 29, 2011 | 08:27 PM
  #8  
Allan R's Avatar
Just an Olds Guy
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Originally Posted by Redog
My response was based on the selector not mOving
What kind of truck was that? Gotta know what kind to avoid...
Old Dec 29, 2011 | 08:30 PM
  #9  
MaxDog's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 194
From: Fabulous Las Vegas
Originally Posted by Vistabrat72
First the basics! How much fluid came out? How much went back in? If it sat for a few weeks, then was drained after a coupe, of weeks, it is very possible that quite a bit of oil drained back from the torque converter. It is very possible that well over 2 quarts drained back from the converter! So if you only put back in three quarts of oil (roughly as the book states) then as soon as you would start the car cold the oil would get pumped back into the converter, leaving the pan dry of oil, or what would be there would be a foamy mess due to cavitation. Start the engine, pull the stick and wipe it. Replace back into the tube. Remove it, and check very carefully both sides of the dipstick. It is very easy to be tricked by 'splash on' the stick. What you want to see is a solid line on both sides of the dipstick near the tip at least. When you check a cold transmission there should be a good 3/4 of an inch solid oil marking on the dipstick. A full warm transmission would of course indicate proper level between the 'ADD' and 'FULL' marks. 'Warm' in general means a good 10 to 15 minutes driving at roughly 70 degrees, or letting the engine idle until the thermostat opens, meaning heat from the engine has at least begun to warm up the transmission. In all honesty it sounds like you may be low on oil, or, like you said, could the rod have been knocked out of the shifter lever on the side of the unit? Check, check, double check! Regards, Howie
Must have been the torque converter draining. Initially I put 4 quarts in. Based upon the very quick responses to my post above, I added another quart and let it warm up for about 10 more minutes. It then went right into gear. However, this additional quart barely got it up to the "add" line. I didn't have any more tranny fluid. I'll have to go get some more tomorrow and add another 1/2 quart. Bottom line, problem solved.

THank you all so much. I would be screwed without you guys. Couple more years and I'll be much better at this stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had no idea that the tourque converter could drain as described by VistaBrat. I learn something new from this site every day. Thanks again.
Old Dec 29, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #10  
Allan R's Avatar
Just an Olds Guy
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Glad you got it moving again. One more thing to add to your inventory of knowledge.
Old Dec 31, 2011 | 02:58 AM
  #11  
Vistabrat72's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 451
From: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by MaxDog
Must have been the torque converter draining. Initially I put 4 quarts in. Based upon the very quick responses to my post above, I added another quart and let it warm up for about 10 more minutes. It then went right into gear. However, this additional quart barely got it up to the "add" line. I didn't have any more tranny fluid. I'll have to go get some more tomorrow and add another 1/2 quart. Bottom line, problem solved.

THank you all so much. I would be screwed without you guys. Couple more years and I'll be much better at this stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had no idea that the tourque converter could drain as described by VistaBrat. I learn something new from this site every day. Thanks again.
Glad to see another problem has been rid of, and a fellow Rocket lover can fly again. Later on this weekend I'll take a picture of how high the fluid is showing on my '72 with the 200-4R transmission from sitting a few weeks. It is up at least 5 inches on the stick at least. As a note, last winter, when the car had been sitting a while, one project was to drain the transmission and change an accumulator spring to soften out a too abrupt shift from the shift kit installed. The book said expect about 3.5 to 4 quarts. I am glad I had a big pan. I was wary for the oil pan itself on a 200-R4 is quite large. I can't believe how much oil drained out of that thing! It took just under 8 quarts US to refill! The entire unit holds about 11. There is a drain plug on the pan to lessen the chances of a mess for routine oil changes in the unit now. By the way, it is normal for transmissions to drain the converter over long periods of sitting. Do you ever hear of transmissions that leak all over the place during storage? Then once refilled and the car driven are perfectly fine? During storage, the oil drains back to the pan, the level rises and reaches a weak shifter shaft seal or tail shaft seal, normally high and dry. Lessons learned along the road. Messy ones at that! Howie
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
russell-t
Transmission
15
Sep 8, 2012 08:21 PM
zjeep
The Newbie Forum
1
Jun 28, 2011 01:44 PM
kevin.horton
Small Blocks
7
Jun 15, 2011 04:05 PM
pophop
Transmission
3
Nov 5, 2009 12:26 PM
mrveezi
General Questions
4
Feb 15, 2009 04:58 PM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:07 PM.