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Somebody! Anybody! 🗣HELP!! 😂 Laugh to keep from crying lol. New to the old school game. Week after purchase, I took it to a shop in Spring, Tx(Houston suburb) to get it checked out, see what was needed and recommended. They removed the hose from valve cover breather and “Rerouted it to where it belongs. It’s redundant, you don’t need that hose there”. Didn’t sound right to me and it’s been doing this ever since, after about 10-15 mins of driving. I don’t know if that’s the issue but I know it wasn’t doing this before I took it to them. Any ideas, any legit shop recommendations in Houston?
Edit: I thought I attached a video, smh. *Searches how to delete posts* lol https://m.facebook.com/groups/195590...01&ref=m_notif
Last edited by 455Flip; March 24th, 2021 at 11:36 AM.
One of the very first things you need to do is to identify the Manufacture, Year & Model of your vehicle - these are essential prerequisites. You need to explain what engine is located in the vehicle, what carburetor and if possible what intake manifold is on the vehicle.
You cannot delete the "Thread" you started. You can delete Posts contained w/in threads. Do you know of any modifications performed to the vehicle prior to your purchase. Once you identify what car it is you're talking about this may eventually come together. Tons of folks here to assist you.
It would also help if you could tell us what both sides of the hose that was rerouted is and was connected to. Pictures would help. When trying to start your car try holding the gas pedal halfway to the floor and see if it will fire, then feather with your foot to keep it running.
I tried to attach a video of me starting it. It starts with the initial rev and then dies even if you pat the gas. Idk if you do facebook but I put a link to the video since it didn't post here. I couldn't tell you where the hoses were or are now. I'm new to everything that comes with the classic car life lol. If I knew, I would just put them back like they were. When I get it running again, I will take it back to the shop and have them put it back how it was and start again at a different shop.
This forum and my car may be way too advanced for me, for now lol. Thanks anyway guys. I'll keep searching for a proper classic car shop in/near Houston and start again there.
This forum and my car may be way too advanced for me, for now lol. Thanks anyway guys. I'll keep searching for a proper classic car shop in/near Houston and start again there.
We've walked green peas through frame off restorations. We can only help those who wish to help themselves, choice is yours. Yes, I saw the huge video you posted, it fits the definition of insanity by doing the same thing over and over expecting a different result. To me the problem sounds like your missing the 12v to the coil+ terminal when the ignition switch transitions to run from start.
There are plenty of Texans here who can help you straighten out this problem once we figure out what it is.
Sounds to me like someone disconnected a hose and created a massive vacuum leak.
Since you're new to all this, suggest getting the factory service manual for your car. 1) you'll learn about the car yourself and 2) you'll have it as reference for a mechanic who may or may not know anything about a 1960s Oldsmobile. Anymore there are more who don't know anything about them than there are who do.
I just watched your video. It seems to fire while cranking and as soon as you release the key from the "crank" position, the car dies. Is this correct? If so, and the car has the original points ignition, the powered resistor wire going to the coil has most likely broken, blown a fuse, or is otherwise disconnected. While cranking, the coil gets 12 volts from a terminal on the starter (car fires) as soon as you release the key from the crank position, the starter is no longer powering the coil. Instead, the coil gets power (about 9 volts) from a special resistance wire in the harness. If you have the ability, this is a pretty easy problem to diagnose. Use a test light (available at any hardware/ auto parts store) to test the positive side of the coil. With the key turned to ignition (run) but not crank, the test light should light up when you touch the positive side of the coil (the clip of the test light will be connected to the negative side of the battery or any clean bare metal surface). If the light does not come on, you will need to find the cause of the lack of power. In watching your video, this is where I would start, and I do not believe the issue has anything to do with the moved hose unless the hose rubbed the harness causing you to lose power to the coil. I hope this helps.
Last edited by Loaded68W34; March 24th, 2021 at 02:12 PM.
We've walked green peas through frame off restorations. We can only help those who wish to help themselves, choice is yours. Yes, I saw the huge video you posted, it fits the definition of insanity by doing the same thing over and over expecting a different result. To me the problem sounds like your missing the 12v to the coil+ terminal when the ignition switch transitions to run from start.
Hahaha I like that! Well consider me a green pea toddler lol. I'm up for the tasks tho!
I just watched your video. It seems to fire while cranking and as soon as you release the key from the "crank" position, the car dies. Is this correct? If so, and the car has the original points ignition, the powered resistor wire going to the coil has most likely broken, blown a fuse, or is otherwise disconnected. While cranking, the coil gets 12 volts from a terminal on the starter (car fires) as soon as you release the key from the crank position, the starter is no longer powering the coil. Instead, the coil gets power (about 9 volts) from a special resistance wire in the harness. If you have the ability, this is a pretty easy problem to diagnose. Use a test light (available at any hardware/ auto parts store) to test the positive side of the coil. With the key turned to ignition (run) but not crank, the test light should light up when you touch the positive side of the coil (the clip of the test light will be connected to the negative side of the battery or any clean bare metal surface). If the light does not come on, you will need to find the cause of the lack of power. In watching your video, this is where I would start, and I do not believe the issue has anything to do with the moved hose unless the hose rubbed the harness causing you to lose power to the coil. I hope this helps.
Exactly. Once I let go from the crank position, it dies. This happened after it started normally and I had driven for about 15 mins, it died sitting in the driveway idling. I'll go grab a test light and give this a try today. Once I google and find this "coil" you speak of lol. Thanks.
Exactly. Once I google and find this "coil" you speak of lol. Thanks.
OK that was pretty funny. Here is a photo of the coil. It has a short "spark plug wire" that attaches to the center terminal of your distributor cap plus two other terminals with wires attached under 3/8" nuts. The small terminals are labeled with a "+" and "-" symbol. You will be testing the side with the "+" symbol.
OK, I was posting as you posted your photos. You have an HEI ignition with MSD. You will still need to check the + wire going to the ignition, but on your set up the wire is attached to the distributor (the red thing on the back of the motor) or the MSD box (the red box on the driver side fender well) If you google MSD HEI ignition you will should be able to find some answers.
You need to get intouch with the Texas Gulf Coast Oldsmobile club. Google to find the site. Lots of good Oldsmobile people that will be willing to help with your problem. Members all around the Houston/Conroe area.
Your going to need someone who is familiar with an MSD box setup because I'm afraid it's way beyond your capabilities. Disregard what I said up top about the coil wiring. Just get it towed to a mechanic familiar with older carbed engines with performance ignition systems. I would get the MSD box removed and run off the HEI distributor.
You need to get intouch with the Texas Gulf Coast Oldsmobile club. Google to find the site. Lots of good Oldsmobile people that will be willing to help with your problem. Members all around the Houston/Conroe area.
So is this an uncapped vacuum port on the base plate of the carb?
Rather than "uncapped" it appears to me this carburetor port is "capped". That port appears to be the rearward side of the carburetor. Can't determine specifically if it is a ported or manifold vacuum port.
Additionally, visualizing the passenger side of the carburetor, there are two additional ports which appear to be capped. The white capped port appears to be manifold vacuum while the black capped port is undetermined.
In all cases (for these three capped ports), the OP does not know which port(s) were worked on if any of these ports were ports which the mechanic made adjustments.
If you owned or could borrow a vacuum gauge to check vacuum it "could" provide further evidence you aren't applying sufficient vacuum to the engine. Sorry this doesn't provide information to resolve the current issue, but these three ports, if changes were made to them, could provide insight into why the engine is not starting and any additional issues.
Should you develop the inclination to further your knowledge of the carburetor, your carburetor is a Holley 650 CFM Street HP Carburetor Part #82651. The first capped port (which Kenneth was referring to as uncapped port located on the back of the carburetor) is a manifold vacuum port which can be used for your brake Power Booster. This port should be capped (unless the mechanic found it connected to something other than the Power Booster and removed some line you are unaware of) since your Power Brake Booster has a solid metal tube line connected directly to your Edelbrock manifold. In any case, the link below demonstrates your carburetor should you want to develop a further understanding of your carburetor. Your carburetor sits on top of a base plate specifically selected for your model of Edelbrock intake manifold. Review the videos at the end(s) of the series of images in the link below - they explain the vacuum ports.
Should you develop the inclination to further your knowledge of the carburetor, your carburetor is a Holley 650 CFM Street HP Carburetor Part #82651. The first capped port (which Kenneth was referring to as uncapped port located on the back of the carburetor) is a manifold vacuum port which can be used for your brake Power Booster. This port should be capped (unless the mechanic found it connected to something other than the Power Booster and removed some line you are unaware of) since your Power Brake Booster has a solid metal tube line connected directly to your Edelbrock manifold. In any case, the link below demonstrates your carburetor should you want to develop a further understanding of your carburetor. Your carburetor sits on top of a base plate specifically selected for your model of Edelbrock intake manifold. Review the videos at the end(s) of the series of images in the link below - they explain the vacuum ports.
It was there when I bought it. I thought it was kinda cool too. Good luck in the search.
it looks like a polished can w sticker on it. It caught my eye too. Youve got a cool looking engine w a lot of aftermarket stuff, these guys will get you up and running.
if you google the msd box number you can find instructions on how it is wired w hei and may e save yourself a tow.
like oldcutlass said you can take out the msd and run the hei standalone easy enough to start eliminating variables.
this may not match your msd or hei its an msd 6200 and 4,5 or 7 pin hei. You may not have a module in your hei. I would guess any auto parts store has them or amazon.
I’m over in Katy if you want some fresh eyeballs on it and can help you test out some of the suggestions. I’ve been slowly getting a ‘77 up and running well and had to troubleshoot many a “who did this, and why?” Issue.
March 24th, 2021, 11:30 AM
