sammy

Just wondering what the best way to remove body from frame....I do have a hoist, but I have never done this.
Recommendations/ input, and even photos would be greatly appreciated.
The car is a 1968 442..

Thanx,
Ted

Run to Rund

After removing the front clip, I raised the car with my floor jacks. I made a big sawhorse that goes across the firewall and bolts to it. It is wider than the track of the rear wheels. I supported the rear quarters under the pinchwelds behind the wheels with 6 gallon steel cans and boards. Then I removed the body bolts and lowered the frame, rolled it out with wheels only on the rear (front can have wheels only or wheels and tires) so the body didn't have to be so high off the ground.

oldzzy

Soak the body bolts with penetrating oil for a couple days before trying to take them out. I had 3 out of the 6 break, gotta love canadian cars lol! Once i had the bolts removed i jacked up the body, made up stands, and used a 4x4 that ran from one side to the other that the body sat on.

vix6t4

I have a 64 Cutlass convertible. I took everything out if the interior that was not welded in, plus the front clip, roof, glass, and trunk lid. I used a chain fall attached to the truss which I tripled with two by fours, and then attached another upright from the middle of the truss to the cement floor. Only one body mount bolt came out. I had to cut or drill the other 13. There are braces that run from the inside quarter panel to the floor and I attached a chain there. I then lifted the body to the ceiling and rolled the chassis out from under it. I built a rotisserie and used the front mounting points and rear most body mount points so I could flip the car on its side. The body was heavier in the back by a few pounds but I could easily lift it to make it level. The only help I had to do this was rolling the chassis out. It was scary at first but made it really easy to repair the inner rockers, weld the new floor pan patches from the outside too, clean the bottom and finish it. Hope this helps. I live in Ontario too, St. Thomas, near London. Good luck. Vic

Napoleon Solo

Not everyone has a 2t chain hoist at their disposal bt if you are using a hoist just be sure to use pick up points that are structurally sound. Body mount bolt holes if you can. When lifting the body off my VC I hooked the body bolts in front and spread the load with straps out back.

Run to Rund

Body mount bolts are where an impact gun helps to shock them loose. At least on my 66, they were factory loctited. No lube plus rust plus Loctite makes removing them a challenge.

Eddie Hansen

Ted very good suggestions so far, I would add to make yourself a spreader bar for the trunk, there are pics in my restore thread, if you could get a second hoist it would be much much easier and probably safer than the floor jack for the front, I lifted mine with a hoist and floor jack but I bought a second hoist to lower it back down, used two hooks in the front firewall area where the body bolts go, again pics in my thread,

TK-65

I used a cherry picker to lift the rear from the trunk latch brace.



Then jacked up the front with a floor jack and boards.



When the rear was sent on 4x4s and jack stands I moved the picker to the front and set the 4x4s and stands. Hooked into the top cowl fender bolt holes.



You can also lift it from the side with a cherry picker, using the seat belt holes. Go in thru the door opening, triangulate as best as you can, and lift it.

Eddie Hansen

I did what TK did to get the body off, but as I said this is the set up I used to put it back on

Carshinebob

I use a cherry picker. We hook a chain between the front outboard seat belt bolts and a small chain between the rear inboard seat belt bolts. then a short chain connects the two chains and we hook that with our cherry picker. we've lifted over a hundred cars this way CARSHINE PICS 466.jpg

CARSHINE PICS 467.jpg