Looking under my 71 cutlass n all my rubber looks basically worn out..... so i wana get new ball joints n such but was wondering if anyone can recommend a a suspension kit. I don't really want to go stock but i also don't want to get raped on a price!
Thanks for the help

 

Check out PST Suspension


http://p-s-t.com/


I used their stock kit on my car but they have several performance upgrades. They have also been very easy to work with.

 

If you want to stay stock, go to the thread that says Rockauto discount code, write it down. Then go to the Rockauto web site and order all Moog parts, use the discount code and they will show up on your doorstep in a few days. Install and be happy, they are the least expensive place to buy these parts and Moog is probably the best quality. Do not buy the unknown, no name crap from ebay.

 

I agree, do not buy a "kit" as most of the parts are of questionable origin and quality.

 

These cars handle so well why not just stay stock?

 

Agree with rock auto route.
You can find a list of part #'s on moogs site for a rebuild package...then buy on rock for much cheaper.
-pete

 

I put these on the old beater. http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-72-Chevel...JX6xwG&vxp=mtr

For the price i said why the hell not lol. I drag race the car and they are a little heavier than stock but not bad units at all. I made up for it by upgrading the front drums to aluminum ones lol.

 

Thanks for the help.... just a few more questions tho. If i go the rockauto route do i need to buy each part to upgrade my steering n suspension. (Pictures included cuz I'm really computer illiterate for 1 n 2 I'm kinda new to the. Classic car rebuilds). Or maybe ill get a pst kit???

 

Pst, mite be an easier buy. Since it comes in kits.

 

Judging by the picture of the car the front springs are fine (assuming it's the silver one in the picture). Post a picture of the upper control arm bushings. If they are cracked then get new upper and lower moog control arm bushings. Check the stabilizer links and bushings too. They hold the front sway bar in place. Not sure why you would change the power steering pump unless you are having issues with turning the steering wheel, but check the belt tension and fluid first. Ball joints I would check before replacing. while you are at it check the center link, idler and pitman arms and tie rods. You are going to need some speciality tools for this task. Depending on how close you are from an Auto Parts store you can usually get them there. If you buy the parts from them they will usually lend you the tools with a deposit. Spring compressor is a must. Tuning fork, bushing & ball joint press make things easier. Once you put everything back together you will need to get the car to the alignment shop.

 

Most parts stores will "loan" tools no matter if you buy parts from them or not. You pay for the tool then get a refund when you return it. I do this for the "one time I'll ever do that job" tools.

 

Another vote for Rockauto, I would inspect your front suspension before buying parts, the lower control arm bushings are either round or oval, something you'll need to know before ordering.
Moog parts are the way to go..

 

Yea it's the same car but that picture is from when I 1st got the car in 2010... I'd take pictures now but I'm with my mom n wife for the day due to mother's day =)

 

Here's a start. Just ordered and did this to my car last month
I already had control arm bushings.


1970 OLDSMOBILE 442 7.5L 455cid V8
MOOG ES681N Tie Rod End $ 16.32 $ 0.00 2 $ 32.64
MOOG ES333RL Tie Rod End $ 28.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 57.58
MOOG ES2032S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve $ 7.48 $ 0.00 2 $ 14.96
MOOG K5108 Ball Joint $ 18.32 $ 0.00 2 $ 36.64
MOOG K5103 Ball Joint $ 20.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 41.58
MOOG DS749 Center Link$ 57.89 $ 0.00 1 $ 57.89
MOOG K5143 Idler Arm $ 28.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 28.79
Discount $ -13.50
Shipping Ground $ 16.98
Order Total $ 273.56
Balance Due $ 0.00

 

Don't forget you have to have the car aligned when you replace all of the steering and suspension components. Plus, you MAW replace the shocks while you have the suspension apart.

 

Your challenge is not the rebuild. It's trying to find parts that are not offshore. Install the rubber OEM style A arm bushings but upgrade the sway bar end and frame bushings to Poly to stiffen that up. You'll be happy with that upgrade IMO.

 

Sum pics the car and stance.

 

Just a few more

 

Have you gotten under it and checked to see which parts are bad? Looks like some have been replaced in the past. It may not need a complete rebuild. Rear springs are a bit saggy by the picture.

 

Be careful with rear springs. I bought a set that made the car worse from one of the restoration suppliers. He claimed all springs were the same. Not the case. There is a thread about a year back on Moog spring numbers. Sorry cannot remember what it was called. Once you buy them they are yours.

As for the front end, the only thing I see from the pictures that is suspicious is the stabilizer bushing on the drivers side. The ball joints, tie rods, pitman and idler arms you will have to check to see how much play is in them. Open the hood and get a shot of the upper control arm bushings. They are usually cracked and the hardest to change.

So far looking at these pictures the only thing I would change is the stabilizer bushings. As I said before, these front ends were made to handle unlike the lighter Chevy's that were made cheap to sell more cars and go light to light. Back then there wasn't a light on every block.

 

Control arm

 

From the pictures they don't look bad at all.Does the front end feel sloppy? If so check all the joint parts. If that was my car I wouldn't change them. If you are looking for better handling try a rear sway bar and boxed rear lower control arms if you don't already have them.

 

The steering is real loose n the car will be my daily driver in a few months so i need it to handle safely cuz I'm always with my 2year old son but i also want it to be bad *** if u know what I mean..... I also like to save money so the least work would b awesome too.....

 

My dad's mechanic told me I should change the whole steering n suspension but i think he mite jus want that check from me. I originally told him I needed my ball joints n all rubber under the car changed

 

Safety should be the first concern. Inspect all steering and chassis components, replace what's out of spec. BJs and steering linkages are not expensive. But they do need to be properly installed. If installed improperly they can be just as dangerous as the worn out part. If you have a mechanic in the family they should be telling you all of this and know how to inspect it all.
The brake system is next. Inspect the calipers, pads & shoes, rear wheel cylinders steel and rubber lines etc. The rubber brake lines should be replaced. Then the whole system bled. Brake fluid should be serviced every few years just like transmission fluid/filter to keep the system(s) happy.
Tires that are 10+ years or older need to be replaced. There is a date code on the side walls. A tire can visually inspect OK yet be hiding dry rot or delamination between the layers. That's a blowout. Lives can be at risk if any of the above components are not checked and serviced as required.
From here its all about service. Cooling system flush(do the heater core separately), hoses, belts T-stat, Trans fluid & filter, rear differential fluid, power steering fluid (use trans fluid here, type F or Dex 3 NOT the thin clear stuff), repack wheel bearings et al... You see where I'm goin. Safety first then reliability. Once all this is done then you can start messing with upgrades.
Do you best to install only USA made parts.
Hopefully dads interested in you and his grandkids safety not the $

 

NO, NO, NO

Cheap offshore junk - will not last 10k miles.

 

Minimum safe rebuild:

Upper and lower ball joints
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Idler arm
Upper and lower control arm bushings
Front and rear brake hoses
All rubber gas line couplers
Sway bar bushings and end links

Then, rebuild the steering box and replace the rag joint.

New shocks

 

I disagree with this kindheartedly, I changed all over to UMI and PST parts including a sway bar, the handling difference is like night and day.

 

Seems like a good buy????

 

Nevermind... rockauto is way cheaper

 

Take good photos of the shims in place on the upper control arm pivot rods. Also take good photos of the exposed threads on the inner and outer tie rods. Count the exposed threads. When you buy all new stuff and and are ready to install, try to replicate the exposed thread counts and be sure to place the same shims back in the same positions. This will help get the alignment close to where it needs to be so you don't run off the road on your way to the alignment shop. Ask me how I know...

 

You can also measure the original before disassembly from inner tie rod end to outer tie rod end then set up the new parts to the same length.

 

After a few family issues I'm back to my girlfriend cutty...... what do you guys think about this list?? I wanna order now to get back as soon as possible.

 

I see three items missing from your list , which I think you will need .

Two #K-5174 Lower control arm bushings .
One #K-5241 Stabilizer bar bushings (set of two)
Two #K-8266 Stabilizer bar links .

Despite what others say , fourty year old rubber parts are JUNK !
Ball joints or tie rod ends that have torn rubber boots are JUNK ! (or they soon will be when dirt and water get in )

 

Thanks.... I kind of figured I was missing some more rubbers

 

FYI - I recently rebuilt my entire front end with Moog parts from Rockauto. Parts came very fast and I was impressed by the quality. The car drives much better now. A few tips:

If you've never done a front end rebuild, definitely review this thread:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-end-job.html

and view this video series on YouTube:


Rob did a great job of documenting the entire process and the YouTube video is a bit dated but it helps seeing someone doing what you are doing.

Good Luck!!!