Is there a high torque starter available for the Intek Briggs and Stratton engines? I have a 24 hp single cylinder Briggs with the stupid compression release system. I have done some research, apparently the compression release system is a well known problem, and the replacement parts are as bad or worse than the original stuff. Since the engines are popular with the JR dragster and lawn tractor sled pulls, I’m guessing those applications don’t use those camshaft systems, and yet start, there has to be a solution.

My other idea? Is there a old school reliable engine compatible with the existing chassis? Do Briggs engines with s vertical shaft share the same crank pulley diameter and engine mounting bolt pattern?

Im just disgusted with this throwaway world we are living in. I understand the idea of running a successful business is to do things as cheap as possible, but not at the cost of pissing off customers.

 

I liked the ignition cutout idea you had !

 

I looked into in, unfortunately, disabling the ignition does nothing to help the lack of starter power. Every time the piston comes up on compression, the crank slows way down. It does it with the spark plug unplugged, the starter just doesn’t have enough torque to crank with the compression release broken.

 

Compression release is why I will never have anything else with a Tecumseh engine.

Knock on wood my Briggs have always been dead reliable, though I'm waiting on a new cooling fan for mine thanks to a very poor oil fill tube design.

Had I gone with my gut instead of following the video when I replaced that blade clutch cable last week, this mess could have been prevented. Did what the video said to get the fuel tank out of the way and it still wouldn't come out. Ended up taking the steering wheel and controls shroud off and it lifted right out.

If you ever pull the cooling shroud off a B&S Gold, be super careful lining up the oil fill tube or you will be replacing a cooling fan. Incredibly stupid and bad design.

 

I did the same thing with the Briggs fan on my riding Poulan mower. Had to replace the plastic fan because it sheared all of the blades when it hit the oil fil tube.

 

Do you think an armature shop could rebuild / convert the starter to a high torque version? We do this for our cars, so maybe it’s possible for this application as well?

 

Do you have a part number of the OE starter? Is there room for a longer starter? I have no idea what starter you have now, but if I can identify it , I may be able to find something stronger.

 

What's the model, type and code? I have been dealing with briggs since I was a teenager. And I work at a Briggs and Stratton diamond dealer for 27 years. The 24hp single cylinder seems odd. I have never seen or heard of anything over 19 horse in a single cylinder!

Pat

 

We mow our own grass at work and this happened to our mower. We took the positive cable off the starter and made a lug mounted to the side of the fender from the starter. We have 2 car batteries set up in series for 24 volts. We just jump it with 24 volts and it fires right up. Just be sure the rest of the electric system is isolated from the starter cable so you don't burn out the other stuff. Been doing it for 3 seasons like this and the starter has held up fine. The only problem is that if it dies away from the building you have to pull it back or take the two batteries out there to jump it again.

 

Interesting. I never knew Briggs & Stratton engines used a compression release system. My Husqvarna riding mower with a Briggs & Stratton engine has had trouble starting this season. I thought it was the choke setting but maybe I'm having trouble with this compression release system. I've even used ether to start it multiple times. I'll have to do more investigation.

I found this website after doing a quick search. Valve lash is stupid easy, I've only done it about infinity times. Even though Oldsmobiles use hydraulic lash.

https://dengarden.com/landscaping/Ha...tratton-engine

FWIW, I agree with Kenneth. The OP might be able to have a local shop rebuild his starter if setting valve lash doesn't help his no-start condition.

 

If adding an extra battery why not use a jump box? I have one that only weighs about a pound and is about the size of a thick paperback book. I use it in my Miata occasionally, takes up hardly any room and holds a charge for a long time......Tedd

 

i have used a jump box, and jumper cables on a spare battery, the starter just doesn’t have the torque to turn over the engine with the compression release disabled.

I might be wrong on the hp rating of the engine, it is a single cylinder.

I’ll take a pic of the starter motor. It’s about the same size as a wiper motor on most cars made recently.


i have verified the lash is correct, and there is definitely no intake valve “bump” as the engine comes up on TDC.

I might try tightening the lash, just to see if that makes any difference.

If you remove the plug, the engine cranks as expected. If you stuff a rag in the air filter neck (starving the engine of air) it cranks normally. As a matter of fact, this is the method I use to get it running. Choke the engine, get the crank spinning, abs remove the rag at just the right moment, it usually starts. It’s just a matter of removing the rag at just the right time.

https://youtu.be/ggV0wS6VMSs.

here is a video showing exactly what I’m dealing with.


This is a Husqavarna riding mower, but other than this machine is orange (mine is red) it’s the exact same mower.

https://youtu.be/JfG9I4Cvbhk

 

See, this is what I love about this forum! I'm always learning! I experienced this issue, or one with similar symptoms, on my Troy Bilt Pony (17HP B&S engine - same form factor as those in the thread and linked videos) toward the end of the 2019 season. I thought it had hydro locked, and took it to the local small engine mechanic, fearing the worst. They had it for about three weeks, waiting in line for my mower's turn on the operating table. In the meantime I bought a cheap garage sale mower. After paying the mechanic ~$250, I got it back and have had no problems since. They said they adjusted the lash on the intake valve. I am now wondering if I was experiencing the torque issue with a broken compression release mechanism. Hmm....

 

this is my spare starter. Not much bigger than a coke can.

 

Here is the model/serial number

 

Also look on the engine's valve cover. Engine model no., type and serial are usually stamped or etched into that.

 

I’ll take a pic tomorrow and post

 

me too!

i saw a couple videos on the valve lash adjustment / head gasket replacement for oil burning, and ill be ordering some gaskets tomorrow!!,

 

I see from the pics it is a ccw rotation. How many teeth on the drive? 14? Can you measure the length of the field case? MM or inches. Do you have any room if there is an extension on the end of the drive instead of being flat? Is it used with a steel or aluminium flywheel?

 

I use this channel for small engine repair ideas and have found it very easy to understand. Donyboy73


He has many helpful posts IMO

 

I was really looking for the model, type and code off the engine. But the Sears number worked O.E starter 593934 from briggs. Don't buy the knock offs, junk.
Here is a link for a high torque unit, but as some said above measure your mounting area to the chassis to see if you have the clearance?
When you did the valve lash. Did you set it at TDC to a tight .005 to a loose .006?

Pat

 

Inspired by this thread i ordered some gaskets for my craftsmen yard tractor.

when starting it would turn fast then slow almost stop then repeat. It always started as long as the batterywas in good shape.

recently it started blowing oil constantly w a big blue puff every hard turn.

i ordered the gasket kit and replaced the blown head gasket ( oil issue].

on reassembly i set the valves to .005. I couldnt start it afterwards, it was similar to above, but worse. I checked around online, and found one guy who mentioned the comp. release might get worn and a tighter intake valve would allow normal starting, he rec .003. My guages only go down to .005 so i just set the intake at a very tight .005. Exhaust at .010 ( same guy said for my engine that was spec some others said ex max .007.)

the engine fired right up better than ever w no fast/slow/ very slow cycle. And no more oil burning.

so thanks to matt for starting the thread.

 

I haven’t messed with this anymore, once I figured I could start it by choking off the engine I haven’t had a reason to. I have seen videos/article saying tightening up the valve lash helps. Maybe I’ll try it. If so, I’ll report back.

 

Yeah, it made me go stupid too and tear down a 1975 Briggs that was on an 80s MTD yard/parking lot blower I bought for $25 at an auction. It ran well just smoked bad. Found out why when we got it torn down. Rings worn slap out with some bore scoring, but the rest looks good. A few passes with a rat ball hone cleaned the bore up where new rings ought to seal ok.

Right now trying to find a machine shop that can do those tiny valves. Everywhere used to have small engine shops but not any more.

 

I had a Craftsman mower about 15 years ago that did this, wouldn't turn over. Now I have a 2005 or so craftsman that also has a compression release. Kohler I think 21 hp. You can actually hear it click when cranking over and when it is winding down after being shut off. Working Ok now but I am concerned. It also is leaking oil as I can smell it. I have used this mower like a brush hog clearing back trails on my land. Beat the hell out of it. I must say the deck attachment on this mower takes a big beating. I would like to find another mower at a auction with this type mower attachment, I would buy it.

 

I saw an older mower with the 12hp Kohler cast iron engine listed on FB, had a sticker "Automatic Compression Release", so this isn't some new concept exclusive only to B&S.

This thread has been pretty informative, though, and will watch out for telltale signs when I'm looking for a used rider in the spring.