77 cutlass headers
77 cutlass headers
Been looking at headers and reading all kinds of stuff so I'm just going to ask I would like to go with long tube headers will I have fit issues, is there 1 that's better than another, and will they interfere with my shift linkage on the drivers side? So if anyone; and I'm sure someone here has with a '77 done this please HELP!!!! It's a 77 S with a 350/350 floor console shifter and yes I am working on the duel hump cross member so I can run true duel exhaust.
I can't comment on Long tube headers for a 76/77 with console shifter but I'm sure someone here will know.
I myself bought the hedman shorty headers simply because I'm not packing anything other than a stock 350.
No issues with the shorty headers at all going in, the only problem will be is a tight bend (Need mandrel bend) coming off the header to get the pipes tucked up nice. Picture of the first bend is in my photo album on CO.
I have buckets console no issues with linkages, Purchased a Powermaster 9610 mini started for more clearance.
I then cut the cross member out to get the 2 1/4 pipe up and through to the mufflers nicely.
Sorry I can't help you with long tube headers, hope this helps
Eric
Drivers side
SV100147.JPG
Passenger side
SV100148.JPG
I myself bought the hedman shorty headers simply because I'm not packing anything other than a stock 350.
No issues with the shorty headers at all going in, the only problem will be is a tight bend (Need mandrel bend) coming off the header to get the pipes tucked up nice. Picture of the first bend is in my photo album on CO.
I have buckets console no issues with linkages, Purchased a Powermaster 9610 mini started for more clearance.
I then cut the cross member out to get the 2 1/4 pipe up and through to the mufflers nicely.
Sorry I can't help you with long tube headers, hope this helps
Eric
Drivers side
SV100147.JPG
Passenger side
SV100148.JPG
Last edited by 76olds; Jan 11, 2017 at 05:48 PM.
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Back in the day, when these cars roamed the planet in great numbers, there were at least 2 makers of long headers that fit the A body and lined up well for the double hump.
however....I am willing a bet a lot of other peoples money that the parts numbers (which I have not had since JC whitney stopped being a legit catalog) no longer exist and the odds of finding one are about on par with finding sandra bullock wants to move in with you. (turn her down anyways, she has a lousy track record)
you may, and I mean MAY find NOS headers that physically bolt to the motor but expect to have some pipes made.
however....I am willing a bet a lot of other peoples money that the parts numbers (which I have not had since JC whitney stopped being a legit catalog) no longer exist and the odds of finding one are about on par with finding sandra bullock wants to move in with you. (turn her down anyways, she has a lousy track record)
you may, and I mean MAY find NOS headers that physically bolt to the motor but expect to have some pipes made.
Thanks for posting the link Randy.
I forget the hedman part number for the short tube that I purchased (Terrible memory). I think they have a long tube one available for 77's as well.
Just a side note, I used Remflex graphite header gaskets on my 76.. 350 and have had no issues with them going on 4 years now, no leaks.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Eric
I forget the hedman part number for the short tube that I purchased (Terrible memory). I think they have a long tube one available for 77's as well.
Just a side note, I used Remflex graphite header gaskets on my 76.. 350 and have had no issues with them going on 4 years now, no leaks.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Eric
With the use of long headers the brace that goes from the engine cradle to the frame needs to be removed. It is difficult to get the oil filter pass the trans lines but is possible.
I currently have a set of black/Jack headers that I purchased and installed in the early 90's. They fit terribly one of the tubes on the driver side actually hit the engine block. I had to beat it in to make it possible to bolt up. I have original front springs in my car and rides low, scrape headers once in a while.
I recently parted out a car with hooker headers they fit much better, but still require you to remove the cradle braces.
No issue with shifter linkage- dual hump or modified trans crossmember is nice to keep exhaust on the driver side up against the floor board.
I currently have a set of black/Jack headers that I purchased and installed in the early 90's. They fit terribly one of the tubes on the driver side actually hit the engine block. I had to beat it in to make it possible to bolt up. I have original front springs in my car and rides low, scrape headers once in a while.
I recently parted out a car with hooker headers they fit much better, but still require you to remove the cradle braces.
No issue with shifter linkage- dual hump or modified trans crossmember is nice to keep exhaust on the driver side up against the floor board.
Haven't we all learned by now to be VERY skeptical of the footnotes on header listings?
First, the floor shifter and associated cable has NOTHING to do with the headers. There is NO issue whatsoever. It isn't even close. The problem is the backdrive linkage from the trans to the steering column, and this linkage is EXACTLY the same for column shift and floor shift cars. If it doesn't clear on a floor shift, it CERTAINLY won't clear on a column shift. Conversely, if it clears the column shift linkage, the floor shift is a non-issue.
First, the floor shifter and associated cable has NOTHING to do with the headers. There is NO issue whatsoever. It isn't even close. The problem is the backdrive linkage from the trans to the steering column, and this linkage is EXACTLY the same for column shift and floor shift cars. If it doesn't clear on a floor shift, it CERTAINLY won't clear on a column shift. Conversely, if it clears the column shift linkage, the floor shift is a non-issue.
im looking for some headers for my 76 as well ill let you know how it turns out .had a set of blackjacks on my 77 back in the day and if i remember correctly i had trouble getting the starter in on the drivers side(it did go but clearance was horrible) had to use an oil filter relocation kit on the passengers side . those headers were about the cheapest out there at the time though.oil changes were a breeze with the filter mounted on the wheel well.
Starter clearance has nothing to do with the year or chassis style - that's just a function of crappy header design, unfortunately. Typically you do need to loosen the header to get the full size starter in and out, but once the starter is in place the header should bolt up around it.
I think a couple of guys over on the 73-77 site are running long tube,you can visit the site and try doing a header search and see what comes up.
The long tube are actually cheaper than the short ones go figure.
Joe P is rite the stock starter will work fine, I just went with the mini starter for less weight and I had a couple extra bucks to spend.
Let us know what you decide on and how it worked out please.
Thanks
Eric
Last edited by 76olds; Jan 13, 2017 at 04:10 PM.
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