'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible Values
#1
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible Values
I don't want to do it, but I may need to sell my Olds. The big question I have is what a good price range would be.
I understand condition dictates price. I would consider this car a daily "good weather" driver. Runs fine, is presentable, but has a little rust in the typical spots. Top is in good shape (pads look like crap since the shop which replaced the top didn't think to do pads at the same time). The paintwork was done around 20 years ago, so it's a bit faded, but not bad for it's age.
Typical 350 automatic, front buckets. The sale would include an extra set of doors which are in great shape, two extra sets of grills and one extra center piece between the grills. Original radio and other misc parts too.
I need to get some kind of idea as to the price so I don't end up selling it for a drastically low price.
The picture on my signature is the car in question.
Any thoughts?
I understand condition dictates price. I would consider this car a daily "good weather" driver. Runs fine, is presentable, but has a little rust in the typical spots. Top is in good shape (pads look like crap since the shop which replaced the top didn't think to do pads at the same time). The paintwork was done around 20 years ago, so it's a bit faded, but not bad for it's age.
Typical 350 automatic, front buckets. The sale would include an extra set of doors which are in great shape, two extra sets of grills and one extra center piece between the grills. Original radio and other misc parts too.
I need to get some kind of idea as to the price so I don't end up selling it for a drastically low price.
The picture on my signature is the car in question.
Any thoughts?
#2
My suggestion is to take a look at the NADA Price Guide and start from there. This guide lists Low, Medium and High prices for your car, depending on its condition and specific guidelines. You will want to read what Low, Medium and High means so you can make the right decision on a fair price. The extra parts that you have for the car may be a bonus and motivator for some prospective buyers, and should if possible (and if not too expensive to you) be considered as part of the sale. You may only want to include the parts that are more managable (smaller). I loved it when the seller of my Olds included an extra clock and heater valve assembly - it was free with my purchase.
Regards, Dan
Regards, Dan
#3
You should also check out Evil-bay and Craigslist to see what other cars like yours are selling for. Don't forget to check out the Chevelles, GTOs, LeMans, GS, etc. This will give you a good idea for a starting point. Plus, I think Dan is on the right track. Make sure the buyer understands the doors etc. are part of the deal. Why would you need Cutlass doors and extra grills if you are selling the car? They would just take up space in your garage.
#4
Good advice given - take it all.
Given your short description, looking at that one picture, and comparing yours to mine when I bought it, I would probably accept no less than 15K for it.
Here is a nada value I pulled for mine last year (3-08). Keep in mind location makes a difference too!
Hope this helps...
Given your short description, looking at that one picture, and comparing yours to mine when I bought it, I would probably accept no less than 15K for it.
Here is a nada value I pulled for mine last year (3-08). Keep in mind location makes a difference too!
Hope this helps...
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; August 20th, 2009 at 07:00 AM.
#5
I just sold my "72 442 conv. for $16500. It was not a numbers matching car by any means, there wasn't even a numbers matching body panel on the car. It was just a clean driver that was turn key. Two yrs ago I probably could have gotten $19-20k for it but times have changed. Its deffinitly a buyers market out there. JKaz
#6
It's the pricing on CL and Ebay which has me wondering. Seems like prices are all over the board, and many cars aren't selling. I just don't want to put it up on Ebay (or elsewhere) and get way under value just due to a sluggish economy. I'd much rather sit on it for sale for a few months than short-change myself on a quick sale.
All good food for thought, thanks!
All good food for thought, thanks!
#7
In my area, i've seen cutlass converts like yours advertised between $8-$15k
Many of The ones between $12-15k are still for sale months and months later.
The car market is not even close what it was 2-3 years ago, unless it is a rare specialty car.
Many of The ones between $12-15k are still for sale months and months later.
The car market is not even close what it was 2-3 years ago, unless it is a rare specialty car.
#8
ASKING prices are meaningless. Ebay has an option under Advanced Search that lets you search completed auctions. You'll get everything from the last 30 days. You will find that the high dollar cars rarely meet reserve and are not sold. Also, note that some buy-it-now auctions will show completed with green (as opposed red that indicates "not sold") even though the item did not sell. Even more telling, cars that supposedly sold end up being relisted a few weeks later.
#9
Absolutely. Converts tend to have a more steady and higher dollar market, but they are understandably suffering in today's economic conditions.
As Joe says, you can pretty well not even look at the asking prices. Look under completed auction and ignore the ones that didn't sell. (Um, there's a reason they didn't sell.......)
If you decide to try Ebay, a reserve price will keep you from selling it for less than you want.
And I've always found NADA prices to be on the high side of real world prices. Plus if you look at the goofy options they "account for" and what premiums they give for certain options, you'll see that it can't be an really accurate measure.
That's why the bottom line is that it is worth what someone will pay for it.
ASKING prices are meaningless. Ebay has an option under Advanced Search that lets you search completed auctions. You'll get everything from the last 30 days. You will find that the high dollar cars rarely meet reserve and are not sold. Also, note that some buy-it-now auctions will show completed with green (as opposed red that indicates "not sold") even though the item did not sell. Even more telling, cars that supposedly sold end up being relisted a few weeks later.
If you decide to try Ebay, a reserve price will keep you from selling it for less than you want.
And I've always found NADA prices to be on the high side of real world prices. Plus if you look at the goofy options they "account for" and what premiums they give for certain options, you'll see that it can't be an really accurate measure.
That's why the bottom line is that it is worth what someone will pay for it.
#10
I don't want to do it, but I may need to sell my Olds. The big question I have is what a good price range would be
By the way, the guide puts one in #2 condition, which is just under showroom condition, at $16,800. A #1 condition car, which means it's better than showroom new and not driven, is valued at $24,000.
#12
I think that if Muskego Jeff puts it up on eBay, he should put something like a $7,000 or $8,000 reserve, and if he gets that or more, he's cooking with natural gas!
#13
A #1 condition car, which means it's better than showroom new and not driven, is valued at $24,000.
My wife and I bought a 3 person overstuffed couch by Flexsteel with a lifetime warranty for less than $900.
#14
Make sure the buyer understands the doors etc. are part of the deal. Why would you need Cutlass doors and extra grills if you are selling the car? They would just take up space in your garage.
In other words, pushing unneeded parts onto the buyer as a requirement for the deal might might make the car less attractive, not more, particularly if the price is perceived to be higher than it would otherwise be. Remember, the guy interested in buying the car might say something like "I'll give you $9,000 for the car alone, $8,500 if you make me take the doors and grilles that I don't need along with it!"
Last edited by jaunty75; August 21st, 2009 at 10:19 AM.
#15
If the doors and grilles that are currently on the car are OK, why would the buyer want the extras just to take up space in HIS garage?
#16
I've always thought the exact same thing, but there are certainly trailer queens out there. I know a guy who has an '04 (as in 1904) Curved Dash, which he trailered everywhere, which you might expect, and a '68 442 W-30 that he also never drove and trailered everywhere. He would start up the Curved Dash at car shows just so people could hear (and see) it run, and he would give people rides around the parking lot in it, but that was it for that car. As far as the 442, not only did he not drive it, but it was not stored on its wheels. It was always on jack stands just slightly lifted off the ground so that, while the tires did touch the ground, they did so just barely and would thus not develop a flat spot if sitting for a long time.
Of course, this fellow owned nine other Oldsmobiles, including three other 442s, two H/O's, and a Vista Cruiser, among others, so he could afford to keep the two he didn't drive in a hermetically-sealed container and still have enough other cars to drive around to keep him busy. But the point is, this is the kind of person who will have cars that he does not drive and for whom the value of a #1 condition car is of interest and relevant.
Of course, this fellow owned nine other Oldsmobiles, including three other 442s, two H/O's, and a Vista Cruiser, among others, so he could afford to keep the two he didn't drive in a hermetically-sealed container and still have enough other cars to drive around to keep him busy. But the point is, this is the kind of person who will have cars that he does not drive and for whom the value of a #1 condition car is of interest and relevant.
#17
I would take them, too. However, if I were selling this car, I would price the parts separately. I would say something like "$9,000 for the car, and if you want the extra parts, $250 and you can have them as well." Or whatever those parts are worth. Plus, I would price the car high enough so that if a prospective buyer were to say "throw IN the parts and I'll take the car," I would say yes.
Last edited by jaunty75; August 21st, 2009 at 10:28 AM.
#18
My wife and I bought a 3 person overstuffed couch by Flexsteel with a lifetime warranty for less than $900.
Last edited by jaunty75; August 21st, 2009 at 10:36 AM.
#19
know a guy who has an '04 (as in 1904) Curved Dash, which he trailered everywhere.
and a '68 442 W-30 that he also never drove and trailered everywhere
However, if I were selling this car, I would price the parts separately. I would say something like "$9,000 for the car, and if you want the extra parts, $250 and you can have them as well."
True, but not terribly comparable. The couch is meant to stay in one spot, and you can't drive it around if you wanted to.
At the same time, a collector car cannot (easily) be put in your living room (and would probably drip all sorts of things that would not be good for that hardwood or carpeted floor!).
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...utrements.html
Plus, your couch is brand new and could be easily replaced if it was lost in, say, a fire, while the car was made decades ago and could not easily be replaced.
Last edited by Olds64; August 21st, 2009 at 11:53 AM.
#20
He should have taken the crank shaft out so it wouldn't start by mistake.
#21
Again, all good thoughts (well, most of 'em anyway!).
In an interesting twist, I ran into an old friend who grew up around the corner from me. He remembered this car from when my brother owned it 15 years ago and always coveted it.
Decades after growing up 1/2 mile from each other we now are now both in a different city about 1 mile from each other, and our kids go to school together. We ran into each other at the school recently and he and his wife are interested in the car.
I've seen what he can do with cars and would be thrilled to sell the Olds to a friend who I know will take care of it and get it back into shape.
If they want it I'll give them the option of buying with or without the extra doors. Considering the extra doors are rust-free and still covered with the original paint my guess is that he'll jump on 'em. If not, I'm sure they'll be easy to sell elsewhere.
In an interesting twist, I ran into an old friend who grew up around the corner from me. He remembered this car from when my brother owned it 15 years ago and always coveted it.
Decades after growing up 1/2 mile from each other we now are now both in a different city about 1 mile from each other, and our kids go to school together. We ran into each other at the school recently and he and his wife are interested in the car.
I've seen what he can do with cars and would be thrilled to sell the Olds to a friend who I know will take care of it and get it back into shape.
If they want it I'll give them the option of buying with or without the extra doors. Considering the extra doors are rust-free and still covered with the original paint my guess is that he'll jump on 'em. If not, I'm sure they'll be easy to sell elsewhere.
#22
Well, my buddy looked at it and liked it, but the timing just isn't going to work for him. I've decided that it'll be put up for sale on e-bay with a reserve using the information above. I've put together a photo-bucket of additional pictures. If anybody is bored enough to take a look at them and give me some feedback I'd greatly appreciate it.
I know this isn't the best time to sell a car like this, but in the past two years I've put less than one tank of gas through it, and I've actually got the ok from my wife to buy an enduro motorcycle with part of the proceeds. Now that's something I'd get some use out of!
http://s647.photobucket.com/albums/u...ff_christbaum/
I know this isn't the best time to sell a car like this, but in the past two years I've put less than one tank of gas through it, and I've actually got the ok from my wife to buy an enduro motorcycle with part of the proceeds. Now that's something I'd get some use out of!
http://s647.photobucket.com/albums/u...ff_christbaum/
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