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70-442 heat is intermittent

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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 03:20 PM
  #1  
safray's Avatar
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70-442 heat is intermittent

(The site won't let me post this under "Interior/Trim", so didn't know where else to put it). I recently removed/cleaned/replaced all under-dash HVAC parts in my car that had been sitting for years. When I slide my heater control to "heat", I get full heat coming from vents or heater or defrost when at idle, but it won't stay hot when driving at highway speeds. I'm thinking the door is not staying in the correct position. Is it possible that air is coming in & blowing the door open at highway speeds? It seems to do it equally at all blower motor speeds. I first thought vacuum leak but isn't the door mechanically controlled? I'd like some opinions on what to look for before I start removing the under dash parts. Thanks!
Old Oct 27, 2016 | 04:07 PM
  #2  
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Check the vacuum lines at the ball under the hood. It sounds like you may have a leak somewhere.
Old Oct 27, 2016 | 04:08 PM
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And no, it's all vacuum operated with diaphragms to operate the doors.
Old Oct 28, 2016 | 05:25 AM
  #4  
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thanks Randy - I'll go chasing vacuum lines this weekend & tear into it if needed.
Old Oct 28, 2016 | 05:58 AM
  #5  
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OK, I was thinking of the later vacuum controls. These are partially cable operated.





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Olds heater 1.jpg (184.4 KB, 35 views)
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Olds heater 3.jpg (141.0 KB, 35 views)
Old Oct 28, 2016 | 06:14 AM
  #6  
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Vac to heater valve?
Old Oct 28, 2016 | 06:18 AM
  #7  
svnt442's Avatar
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OK...lol....that set is for non-AC heater controls.

Here is the AC stuff...





















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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 06:20 AM
  #8  
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That's what I was thinking (your pictures are better than my service manual pictures!). I think I'll check the vacuum lines I can get to easily first, then go after that cable adjustment & all other vacuum hoses.
Old Oct 28, 2016 | 06:36 AM
  #9  
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First, I ASSUME you have A/C, since you didn't say. Second, if the system works at high vacuum at idle but not when the throttle is opened (and vacuum drops) then you obviously have a problem with the vacuum storage ball and/or the check valve that retains vacuum in it. You might also have a leak somewhere that's small enough to allow the system to work at high vacuum conditions but not at medium.

Most likely the problem is the vacuum operated heater control valve. this is a normally closed valve that opens with vacuum. If vacuum is inadequate to hold it open, flow of hot water to the heater core is blocked.
Old Oct 28, 2016 | 07:33 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by safray
That's what I was thinking (your pictures are better than my service manual pictures!). I think I'll check the vacuum lines I can get to easily first, then go after that cable adjustment & all other vacuum hoses.
These are from my service manual and I took the pics with my phone.
Old Oct 28, 2016 | 07:34 AM
  #11  
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thanks Joe - yes, it's an AC car & you're describing the problem exactly.
Old Oct 28, 2016 | 07:56 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
First, I ASSUME you have A/C, since you didn't say. Second, if the system works at high vacuum at idle but not when the throttle is opened (and vacuum drops) then you obviously have a problem with the vacuum storage ball and/or the check valve that retains vacuum in it. You might also have a leak somewhere that's small enough to allow the system to work at high vacuum conditions but not at medium.

Most likely the problem is the vacuum operated heater control valve. this is a normally closed valve that opens with vacuum. If vacuum is inadequate to hold it open, flow of hot water to the heater core is blocked.

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