rjdawson

I got an all new ignition switch, tumbler and aluminum bezel for my 68 442, from Parts Place and all seemed to be going well until the very end of the install.

Apparently there are 2 notches in back of the dash that the ignition switch must "seat" into, and then the bezel holds it in place. These notches keep the switch from rotating. Actually one appears to be a notch (depression), one is stub (protruding). These appear a bit worn.

I can get the switch to seat when I hold it from behind. It would seem to be a matter of holding that position from behind while tightening the bezel.

However it is still loose when I've screwed on the bezel all the way. In other words, it reaches the end of the threads on the ignition switch and is not yet tight.

Has anyone run into this? Have I gotten a bad switch that wasn't threaded enough?

Can anyone think of how I could rig it to work? I'm thinking if I can find a washer that's the perfect size I could put the ignition switch in and seat it, then put those washers over it from the front, then the bezel. This way it would still seat but it would tighten all the way before all the threads run out on the switch.

Hope this makes sense! I've been hotwiring the car for the last 6 months and I'm ready to start using the key again!

rjdawson

Also I was disappointed that, like the previous switch, I can pull out the key easily when the switch in ACC or ON. Is this normal? Does it indicated I've assembled it wrong or gotten a poor quality tumbler as well?

oldcutlass

I would just shim the switch from the back to take up the gap and tighten the nut.

As far as the key being able to be removed in the ON or ACC position???? I don't know.

rjdawson

Yes that's a good idea and what I may have to do.

I drilled out the old cylinder from the old ignition switch (it was shockingly easy) and the old switch was still in good condition. I tried using that and it worked significantly better. At this point I'm having trouble holding the switch from behind while doing the last of the tightening with a needle nose plier trying to grip the bezel.

I investing $18 in the correct bezel tool and I'm going to try that first. If I again run out of threads on the switch then I'll shim as you suggested.

Any ideas what to use for a shim?

oldcutlass

Drilled out flat washers work. Flat plastic?? What ever is handy.

rjdawson

There you go.

Mechanical creativity is not a strong suit of mine ;-)

droldsmorland

Also I was disappointed that, like the previous switch, I can pull out the key easily when the switch in ACC or ON. Is this normal? Does it indicated I've assembled it wrong or gotten a poor quality tumbler as well?

No this is normal for pre 69 cars. Ive seen many GM and other makes that do this prior to the locking columns which came on the scene in the late 60s. The locking key came in 69 (for Oldsmobile and other GMs) as part of the mandated locking steering wheel (and for other safety reasons).
I like it because I can pull the key and hang it on the driver side mirror remote. Thus preventing the keys from slapping the nicely painted dash when second gear up shift puts down 6 feet of rubber!

allyolds68

You do realize all you need is the key and a paperclip to take out the old lock cylinder, right? No drilling required unless you lost the key (& even then I'd find a way before drilling it)

rjdawson

Yes I did lose the key and that's what led to this whole situation.

I didn't realize that without removing the ignition cylinder (which I couldn't do), that there was a lip on the back of the bezel that kept it from coming off.

So it became hard to unscrew after a while and I assumed it had become cross-threaded or something.

I was able to get it to unscrew enough that it emerged slightly from the dash. I then repeatedly squeezed it with vice grips until it broke. I was surprised that, being aluminum, it eventually just snapped in half.

So then I was able to get everything out but still had the old switch with clyinder stuck in it (it was in nearly new condition).

I got new switch, cylinder, and bezel as a result.

It turns out that the switch I received was not sufficiently threaded. I wanted to try the old one since I knew it worked and stuck a 3/16 drill bit into the keyslot of the old cylinder.

I literally drilled it for less than 10 seconds, then inserted a non matching key and starting trying to turn/wiggle the cylinder. It immediately went to ACC position and then I could take it out.

The old switch was unharmed and installed perfectly into the car.

In addition to the bad ignition switch, I was also not happy with the new cylinder. It looked "cheap" and with minimal jiggling, ANY key will allow it to turn now that it's in the car.

So, Parts Place will probably not be on my A List of suppliers, 2/3 parts being bad isn't a good sign.