‘66 Tilt & Tele: why does my horn only work when turning?
‘66 Tilt & Tele: why does my horn only work when turning?
Just checking here in case I’m missing something obvious. The car in question is a ‘66 Starfire with a tilt & telescoping column.
I’ve had a weird issue for a few years where my horn only works when the steering wheel is turning. It doesn’t honk when the car is going straight. I miss being able to honk at people who cut in front of me on the freeway. Or don’t merge politely. Etc…
I spent about 10 hours troubleshooting it today & learned a lot about ‘66 tilt & tele columns. I’ll document that elsewhere with pictures.
But after all that, I’m back where I started. It became one of those “Be glad you didn’t lose ground” days. The horn still doesn’t work when the steering column. Is headed straight.
What did I miss?
Here’s what I tried.
1) The steering wheel horn switches are good. I unit tested them on the bench. Then I swapped in other horn switch contacts, just for good measure. They tested good too, all the way down to the spring which electrically connects to horn ring
2) I cleaned and dremeled the brass and steel current-carrying parts to ensure voltage to the 3 tabs on the horn ring
3) I flattened the horn ring as best I could
4) I put in a different turn signal switch and stretched the horn pin spring to put new tension on the horn ring pin.
4) I tried the horn ring in 2 positions: ordinary ( with the retention clip at 7:00) and 180° off - no change. Straight still work.
Honestly, at this point it seems like my clean & attractive ‘66 black tilt & tele wheel has an issue where it’s not transmitting the ground signal to the horn pins.
The wheel definitely has a few (or more than few) cracks, but it looks good cosmetically. I have suspicion that there’s some cracked metal framing underneath the cast plastic which only electrically connects when there’s turning tension on the wheel.
So I may be on the hunt for a replacement wheel.
Anybody have a high quality black 1966 tilt & tele wheel they’d like to sell?
Words of wisdom most welcome. After today and yesterday, I’m about out of ideas….
Chris
I’ve had a weird issue for a few years where my horn only works when the steering wheel is turning. It doesn’t honk when the car is going straight. I miss being able to honk at people who cut in front of me on the freeway. Or don’t merge politely. Etc…
I spent about 10 hours troubleshooting it today & learned a lot about ‘66 tilt & tele columns. I’ll document that elsewhere with pictures.
But after all that, I’m back where I started. It became one of those “Be glad you didn’t lose ground” days. The horn still doesn’t work when the steering column. Is headed straight.
What did I miss?
Here’s what I tried.
1) The steering wheel horn switches are good. I unit tested them on the bench. Then I swapped in other horn switch contacts, just for good measure. They tested good too, all the way down to the spring which electrically connects to horn ring
2) I cleaned and dremeled the brass and steel current-carrying parts to ensure voltage to the 3 tabs on the horn ring
3) I flattened the horn ring as best I could
4) I put in a different turn signal switch and stretched the horn pin spring to put new tension on the horn ring pin.
4) I tried the horn ring in 2 positions: ordinary ( with the retention clip at 7:00) and 180° off - no change. Straight still work.
Honestly, at this point it seems like my clean & attractive ‘66 black tilt & tele wheel has an issue where it’s not transmitting the ground signal to the horn pins.
The wheel definitely has a few (or more than few) cracks, but it looks good cosmetically. I have suspicion that there’s some cracked metal framing underneath the cast plastic which only electrically connects when there’s turning tension on the wheel.
So I may be on the hunt for a replacement wheel.
Anybody have a high quality black 1966 tilt & tele wheel they’d like to sell?
Words of wisdom most welcome. After today and yesterday, I’m about out of ideas….
Chris
Just checking here in case I’m missing something obvious. The car in question is a ‘66 Starfire with a tilt & telescoping column.
I’ve had a weird issue for a few years where my horn only works when the steering wheel is turning. It doesn’t honk when the car is going straight. I miss being able to honk at people who cut in front of me on the freeway. Or don’t merge politely. Etc…
I spent about 10 hours troubleshooting it today & learned a lot about ‘66 tilt & tele columns. I’ll document that elsewhere with pictures.
But after all that, I’m back where I started. It became one of those “Be glad you didn’t lose ground” days. The horn still doesn’t work when the steering column. Is headed straight.
What did I miss?
Here’s what I tried.
1) The steering wheel horn switches are good. I unit tested them on the bench. Then I swapped in other horn switch contacts, just for good measure. They tested good too, all the way down to the spring which electrically connects to horn ring
2) I cleaned and dremeled the brass and steel current-carrying parts to ensure voltage to the 3 tabs on the horn ring
3) I flattened the horn ring as best I could
4) I put in a different turn signal switch and stretched the horn pin spring to put new tension on the horn ring pin.
4) I tried the horn ring in 2 positions: ordinary ( with the retention clip at 7:00) and 180° off - no change. Straight still work.
Honestly, at this point it seems like my clean & attractive ‘66 black tilt & tele wheel has an issue where it’s not transmitting the ground signal to the horn pins.
The wheel definitely has a few (or more than few) cracks, but it looks good cosmetically. I have suspicion that there’s some cracked metal framing underneath the cast plastic which only electrically connects when there’s turning tension on the wheel.
So I may be on the hunt for a replacement wheel.
Anybody have a high quality black 1966 tilt & tele wheel they’d like to sell?
Words of wisdom most welcome. After today and yesterday, I’m about out of ideas….
Chris
I’ve had a weird issue for a few years where my horn only works when the steering wheel is turning. It doesn’t honk when the car is going straight. I miss being able to honk at people who cut in front of me on the freeway. Or don’t merge politely. Etc…
I spent about 10 hours troubleshooting it today & learned a lot about ‘66 tilt & tele columns. I’ll document that elsewhere with pictures.
But after all that, I’m back where I started. It became one of those “Be glad you didn’t lose ground” days. The horn still doesn’t work when the steering column. Is headed straight.
What did I miss?
Here’s what I tried.
1) The steering wheel horn switches are good. I unit tested them on the bench. Then I swapped in other horn switch contacts, just for good measure. They tested good too, all the way down to the spring which electrically connects to horn ring
2) I cleaned and dremeled the brass and steel current-carrying parts to ensure voltage to the 3 tabs on the horn ring
3) I flattened the horn ring as best I could
4) I put in a different turn signal switch and stretched the horn pin spring to put new tension on the horn ring pin.
4) I tried the horn ring in 2 positions: ordinary ( with the retention clip at 7:00) and 180° off - no change. Straight still work.
Honestly, at this point it seems like my clean & attractive ‘66 black tilt & tele wheel has an issue where it’s not transmitting the ground signal to the horn pins.
The wheel definitely has a few (or more than few) cracks, but it looks good cosmetically. I have suspicion that there’s some cracked metal framing underneath the cast plastic which only electrically connects when there’s turning tension on the wheel.
So I may be on the hunt for a replacement wheel.
Anybody have a high quality black 1966 tilt & tele wheel they’d like to sell?
Words of wisdom most welcome. After today and yesterday, I’m about out of ideas….
Chris
The horn buttons on the wheel...........don't they just provide the ground to the horn relay? Where is that ground connection made? I've looked through the manuals and it's really not clear how the switches make that ground. Maybe start there and see where it's loosing the connection
?
There’s a lot more to say, but I think I’m going to do a post on the ‘66 Tilt & tele columns soon.
The short version for now is that the power in comes up to a spring loaded horn pin whose spring can lose strength over the years. And the soft brass pin can wear as the brass horn ring underside presses against it — there’s always interference among these 2 brass parts - when the car is stopped, when running, when going straight and when turning.
What I learned today from an extremely knowledgeable guy who rebuilds these things is that the plastic ring which holds the brass contact ring can warp over time. I checked this afternoon and indeed mine have warped. They warped right where you’d expect ‘em to - when the wheel is in “going straight” position.
Now I have to figure out how to shim it for closer, tighter electrical connection between the horn ring underside and the horn pin. I may lengthen the pin using a brass 1/8” diameter nail or clevis pin cut and rounded to just a tick over-length. I may epoxy the underside of the plastic ring to get it flat again.
I’m still working the problem but got a bunch of shots today about tearing into the column with it on the car.
Cheers
Chris
The short version for now is that the power in comes up to a spring loaded horn pin whose spring can lose strength over the years. And the soft brass pin can wear as the brass horn ring underside presses against it — there’s always interference among these 2 brass parts - when the car is stopped, when running, when going straight and when turning.
What I learned today from an extremely knowledgeable guy who rebuilds these things is that the plastic ring which holds the brass contact ring can warp over time. I checked this afternoon and indeed mine have warped. They warped right where you’d expect ‘em to - when the wheel is in “going straight” position.
Now I have to figure out how to shim it for closer, tighter electrical connection between the horn ring underside and the horn pin. I may lengthen the pin using a brass 1/8” diameter nail or clevis pin cut and rounded to just a tick over-length. I may epoxy the underside of the plastic ring to get it flat again.
I’m still working the problem but got a bunch of shots today about tearing into the column with it on the car.
Cheers
Chris
Any chance you have a source?
I’m pretty handy with internet searches, but have come up empty. I would love to find new correct parts! I kludge old stuff only when my back is against the wall, like I may be here.
The Olds tilt & tele horn ring is a 3 pin deal and the plastic it’s pinned into seems to be unique to the ‘66 tilt & tele. It’s definitely not standard GM, though it may swap with Cadillacs of similar vintage.
Thanks for any leads you can provide
Chris
I’m pretty handy with internet searches, but have come up empty. I would love to find new correct parts! I kludge old stuff only when my back is against the wall, like I may be here.
The Olds tilt & tele horn ring is a 3 pin deal and the plastic it’s pinned into seems to be unique to the ‘66 tilt & tele. It’s definitely not standard GM, though it may swap with Cadillacs of similar vintage.
Thanks for any leads you can provide
Chris
OldCutlass,
Many thanks. My rag joint is missing the ground wire.
After 2 days looking at the upper column for worn parts, your post made me look at the rag joint. As my (super smart) wife says, “when you hear hooves, think horses, not zebras”. I spent 2 days trouble shooting the upper column to no avail. But I learned a bunch of stuff which I’ll post elsewhere.
This evening I mocked up a column ground with an alligator clip & the horn worked in “going-straight position”. I didn’t test exhaustively, but initial results are promising.
Tomorrow I’m heading for my Napa parts store to get a rag joint ground strap connecting the column to ground. I’m hoping that when I get it in connecting the column to a proper ground, I’ll get full 360° horn function back once again.
As an aside, and not an accusation, I let my professional mechanics handle brakes, suspension and steering. A while back I asked them to remove & replace my steering box. It looks like the replacement rag joint just didn’t include the ground wire we expected from the old days. I’m thankful my pro’s were focused on steering safety & not horn function. If I have to choose, I’ll go with safety over lights & horns every time.
I’m hopeful that’s the fix for my ‘66 tilt & tele error. I’ll let you know once I get the ground strap in & can test.
Once again, many thanks to OldCutlass. Great call! Hope I can return the favor one day.
Chris
Many thanks. My rag joint is missing the ground wire.
After 2 days looking at the upper column for worn parts, your post made me look at the rag joint. As my (super smart) wife says, “when you hear hooves, think horses, not zebras”. I spent 2 days trouble shooting the upper column to no avail. But I learned a bunch of stuff which I’ll post elsewhere.
This evening I mocked up a column ground with an alligator clip & the horn worked in “going-straight position”. I didn’t test exhaustively, but initial results are promising.
Tomorrow I’m heading for my Napa parts store to get a rag joint ground strap connecting the column to ground. I’m hoping that when I get it in connecting the column to a proper ground, I’ll get full 360° horn function back once again.
As an aside, and not an accusation, I let my professional mechanics handle brakes, suspension and steering. A while back I asked them to remove & replace my steering box. It looks like the replacement rag joint just didn’t include the ground wire we expected from the old days. I’m thankful my pro’s were focused on steering safety & not horn function. If I have to choose, I’ll go with safety over lights & horns every time.
I’m hopeful that’s the fix for my ‘66 tilt & tele error. I’ll let you know once I get the ground strap in & can test.
Once again, many thanks to OldCutlass. Great call! Hope I can return the favor one day.
Chris
Just to close this out here for anyone following along: the problem was in fact a modern day rag joint.
I added a ground strap made of braided wire between the spline bolt and the front of one of the 5/16's-24 bolts and it solved the problem.
I'll note some more details under electrical coming up.
Chris
I added a ground strap made of braided wire between the spline bolt and the front of one of the 5/16's-24 bolts and it solved the problem.
I'll note some more details under electrical coming up.
Chris
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