I have been thinking about H beam rods used on another engine. Aluminum is lighter, but it doesn't last forever. "Sub Zero tempering" the crank and nitriding it is definitely something I want to try. 7,000 RPM's is definitely stressful on stock rods.

 

I may have a set of Engle 1.8 Adjustable Rocker Arms for 57-58 Olds, w/shafts and stands. Came off a modified J-2 engine which was in car I swapped for. I would have to do some "digging" if interested.

 

I may have an interest in the rockers once Camcraft takes a look at the cam. They think they will have time next week to put it on the cam doctor and assess it. I have been working on exploring the heads. They gave some indication they had been worked on so I was curious. Here is what one head looks like with a little attention. Needless to say I am pleased.

 

Those heads were definitely polished in the combustion chamber, possibly CC'ed also. The intake runners were definitely polished. Need to see if the outer dimensions match the gasket, usually best way to do the Olds heads. I found that leaving some roughness just before the valves was benificial in that it allowed the fuel droplets to be broken up, not entering chamber as droplets but rather as a "mist". Also narrow seats. I used to grind smooth the channels on the Spring side of the heads to have the oil from rockers get back down below, also chamfered the drain holes on the ends of the heads. Even went so far as polishing the valley to get oil down to pan easier. Olds always had probs w/oil flow and return 49 - 58.

 

Well that post was a wealth of information. I checked and yes the intakes were matched to the gasket. Just for the heck of it I checked the exhaust and they are matched also. I hadn't expected that since it had manifolds not headers. I didn't have a small enough ball burr for the drain channel you mentioned but it worked perfectly on the drain holes. I was able to smooth out the area in front of the hole and open it up so oil could easily drain. Thanyou for sharing your technique. None of the things you shared have I ever come across.
I did do something else. My first reaction when seeing the valley was that the lifters had beat the crap out of the lifter boss's. Then I realized it was casting flashing. The thought of that breaking off bothered me.. I have now ground them down.
Everyone enjoy.
Grant

 

That one slipped my mind, but yes, that casting excess at the bottom of the lifter bosses can also be ground off. I scrounged all those little "tricks" reading thru all the articles being printed years ago by different racers and teams. I even ran a V-Stocker 50 Coupe way back when and did all those things inside. Even mounted a stock 57 J-2 Oil Pan on the engine to get more oil in the bottom. They had a "Can" welded on one side, looked like an oil filter, held an extra Qt. There was also (before Covid) a company in Cal that manufactured head gaskets which were thinner, but had the seals around holes, raised compression. I don't see them listed anymore. I've got (Not for Sale) a pair of Edlebrock cast alum valve covers that have the number 57 below the curved Edlebrock logo. Never saw another pair like it.

 

Yes, a wealth of information !!!
The "edges" you ground off is casting flash. This is typical with casting processes. It occurs when the "cores" or "patterns" are removed from the molds after tamping. If they are not tamped well close to the "pattern" the "core sand" will fall out when the mold is turned over and mated to the bottom mold. That casting flash can act as a dam to hold back oil drainage in the valley area. For a while, some people painted the valley area with Glyptal to aid oil drainback.

Intake and exhaust gaskets provide a finish line edge for porting and polishing to align the ports between parts. If your heads have been ported, I would expect to find they matched the gaskets.

 

You paid attention well. Those are samples of the little "tricks" that top dogs did to prepare a car. Many of those "tricks" could be used today. Where are you located ?

 

Located Sou'west Virginia, Farm country.

 

Trust me I will use the tricks. This gave me the comfort on putting this engine back close to how the original racers built it. I will have to drop the compression but will still be close to 10 to 1. The rods were set up with full floating pins.
kid in a candy store here. Do either of you know if stock J2 manifold will fit with aftermarket valley cover? My stock cover is really rough.
Grant

 

Nice to meet you.

 

57-58 Olds had full floating pins from the factory.
When you grind casting flash, try to smoothly blend it in where you end. You want nice smooth edges and "fade out". A slight radius is better than a sharp corner. What are you using for grinding ?
Look around for a used valley pan. Someone on here probably has one.

 

I would have to see the cover before figuring that one out. I know the Iron Olds intakes all had that "bump" underneath. But regardless, the manufacturer should be allowing for that. I know Weiand, Edlebrock and several others made them, finned ones that looked really nice. I'm using a chromed stock unit with the front upright
flange removed (I figure more air-flow to cool everything down). Not for nothing, how many people will really be able to see what the Valley Cover really looks like? Sandblast it and paint it shiney chrome silver (Home Depot, $6.49), or all black.
I built an early Olds (1951) and a later (1964) and after decking, cleaning up the heads with light Mill cuts, I CC'ed them to be at 9:1 comp and both run fine on 88-90 Octane gas, no pings at all. But here we also have benefit of non-ethanol Marathon "Farm" gas, 90 Octane. Expensive, but I figure worth it to keep rubber from rotting.

 

Did my dads 57 371 a couple of years ago. Both heads were cracked in the same location.

 

I think I will get a cheap cc kit to see what I am working with. I set one of the pistons in the chamber and there seemed plenty of room. I am on the North Carolina coast so we have premium non-ethanol. Lots of high performance boats around.
interesting to see where the cracks are that I have heard so much about. I will certainly check mine.

 

This is the custom Race tech piston that Ralph was referring to. These were the pistons I used in my fathers J-2.

 

Are they cast or forged? The flat top yielded what compression ratio? I have been told flat top 394 pistons would yield 10 plus. Engine is .125 over

 

CC'ing not hard, just time consuming. Get a couple of pints of rubbing alcohol. Works real good. There are some good welders out there who can weld up cracks in heads. I had cracks in my 77 Olds 350 heads welded up back in 90s. Both heads still going strong on another 350 I built w/ 9:1 comp.

 

Grant, they are forged. The flat tops did yield around 10 to 1. Hope this helps. Jim

 

WOW, introductions are in order. JPL is Jim. ncboat is Grant. Halffasted is _____ ? I am RALPH
JPL (Jim) has a cam from CamcraftCams cam in his Dad's J-2.
I talked to Racetec Pistons a while back and they have enough info on file to make pistons. The spec for the "compression height" (pin centerline to crown) is 1.890. That means they sit in the hole an extra .005-.008"

 

Stock Flat-top Olds 394 pistons were 10.25:1 factory. Start remembering your math and volume formulas. I think some data used to be in the Mondella catalogs, or the Dick Miller catalog. Need thickness of head gasket to know that volume, plus measure how deep piston sits down in block at TDC, and volume of chamber after any milling or clean-cutting. Somewhere around 60 to 70 cc total would be near 10:1. Need to calculate to find exact ratio.

 

I guess first off thankyou for the discovery of camcraft. I hope to hear from them by weeks end. Hunter is going to put my cam on his cam doctor. Once he knows what he has we can make some decisions.
Ralph, posted some NHRA specs for chamber cc's so that will be my benchmark.
Piston selection will be dependent entirely on bore or not bore. Those look awesome and will probably be my choice. Ralph advised me to check Pistons in four holes prior to disassembly.

The flat portion of the Piston was basically level with quench area. The "dome" fit inside the chamber.
Gotta love this bench racing.
Thanks
Grant

 

Halffasted has a LOT of knowledge about this older generation Olds engine. Its great to get a few people on the same thread to talk about the finer points of these old engines.
Grant, don't get caught up on compression ratio's til everything is measured. Those four holes are at the corners to give you an idea if the block is machined square and how far down in the hole the pistons are.

 

Here's a side by side comparison of the new piston, compared to the factory one. If you go this route the rotating assembly will need to be rebalnced.

 

It's refreshing to see some high performance effort being put into a "1st gen" Olds v8! The fundamentals still apply, anything to improve suck, squeeze, bang, blow.

 

Whats going on with the connecting rods ? They look different also.

 

Forgot to mention I had another set of factory rods that were reconditioned. They look different because they were also shot-peened.

 

Hey. Not to pour water on your parade, but what specifically do you want to do with this bored out 57 J-2 engine? Reason I say is that yes they sound great, got lots of torque & HP. Wind up decently. That said, are you planning on racing? Reason being unless you went all out, and put money into the bottom end, you will likely destroy the engine or get whupped. I was running two "D" series AFBs with an Isky Roller and ws running out of air in high gear above 6,500 rpm. Never got beat off the line (Hydro-stick & 4.30/5.38 gears) but 327/350/396 Chevies had good top end. Plus a 1949-50 Olds Coupe weighs almost 3600# even stripped for Modified Production. Full Street gear would weigh over 3900#. These cars were great for street, but for strip be better off with a blown 59-64 394. A lot stronger, better heads, lighter casting. Just a fact, Jack....

 

I have a 35 Ford roadster street rod I am building. Original plan was a blown SBC with 471. When I found the J2 I changed direction. I think the roadster would be much cooler with an engine few can identify with. Just the chrome 471 manifold and new polished 471 will pay for a lot of this work. I am 73 and am ready to go wump wump as opposed to Waaaaaaaaaaa. Know anyone looking for 4 bolt 350, steel crank, pink rods, forged pistons, fuelie heads, ronco mag?

 

That would be a beautiful set-up. Friend of many years ago had a Deuce Coupe and he put in a 57 J-2 with a Vitar Hydrostick. One ride and I was
convinced to yank my '37 LaSalle box and get a Vitar. Only regret was unloading the Hydro several yrs later. Good luck with that. And try writing to Engle Cams and see if they can make a grind for you. They did for me for a later model engine a few yrs back. Got Richmond 4.56 ring & pinion for 57-64 Olds/Poncho rear like new, Virginia.

 

A street rod with multiple carbs and chrome air cleaners would be cool.

 

Those old Hydro's were great. Who even knows how to do one now ?