Rotate the engine by hand with the distributor cap off. See how much play there is in both directions before the rotor moves.

 

Okay I will definitely look at that when I get off today;
What is dwell and how do I adjust it;
I will look more of this up as well before I go back out there probably Saturday
I know nothing about dwell so any input there would be helpful as well

 

You know, there is this thing called "Google."

Never mind all of the previous posters accurate and well-intentioned suggestions regarding setting the points gap - they're all too complicated.

Just remove the spark plugs (like you will need to do for the compression test anyway), connect your dwell meter, and crank the engine while watching the meter.
The dwell angle should be 30°. (With 8 cylinders, and therefore 8 distributor cam lobes, this means that each points cycle covers 45°, so 30° is a duty cycle of ⅔).
If the dwell angle is not 30°, then use an Allen key to slightly rotate the points adjusting screw in the window of the distributor cap - when you put any pressure on the screw it will affect the dwell angle at that moment, so be sure to recheck with the Allen key out of the screw.

This is much easier than messing with the points. We know that the points are clean and in good shape if you have a good, strong spark.

Once you've got the dwell angle set, do the compression test, just to get it done, and remember that it needs to be done with THE THROTTLE WIDE OPEN.

Then use your timing light to ballpark the timing while cranking with no plugs (if you had to adjust the dwell), then put it all back together and try to start it again.

By the way, I slightly disagree with Eric regarding the need for a fuel source - the engine should run for at least 30-60 seconds on a full float bowl (ie: if you fill the float bowl with a tiny funnel through the vent stack), though it will generally only run for 2-5 seconds on gasoline just poured through the throttle plates.

What is wrong with the fuel in the tank? Does it smell like varnish?
If the fuel in the tank smells fine, then stop screwing around and just reconnect the tank.
Before you do that, though, check the fuel pump output volume and pressure - if you've got porous fuel hoses, the pump won't suck enough fuel to run the car.

- Eric

 

I know there is such a thing called Google. That's what I usually resort to. But isn't this website for this purpose? To help each other out? Anyhow

I don't have a dwell meter, am I able to rent one at the parts store? And did you watch the video of it trying to start? I'm not questioning your intelligence at all, but would the dwell being off do that to the engine? -let it fire but not run-
The car was parked with near a full tank of gas and that was at least 5 years ago. It doesn't smell too off from gas but Im scared to even want to try it.
It's not even pulling anything out of the tank;
The fuel line is hooked up to the tank but it's not pulling any fuel or pushing it out at the carburetor side.

 

I watched the video, its very short but it appears the engine should run the way it sits. Seems to be short on fuel. As said fill carb bowl with gas and see if it will stay running for at least 30 seconds or so. I would not be afraid to run fuel from tank, if it smells like gas it should be ok. If there is no fuel delivery it could be the pump or tank sock or filter or blocked fuel vent.

 

Dwell angle is a measure of the duration of time that the primary circuit of the ignition system is closed to energize the primary windings of the coil. It expressed (and measured) in degrees of rotation of the distributor rotor, hence the use of the term "angle"
Setting the gap is altering that dwell angle. So .016" of gap would equate to 30* dwell angle measured using a dwell meter.
Just set/verify the gap and get fuel to it as Oldsmaniac mentioned. Once you do get her running then look into a dwell meter to super tune. Its one of the things on that super tune list.

"-would the dwell being off do that to the engine? -let it fire but not run" Yes

 

In order to get commonly available generic information ("What is the dwell angle?" "What is an octane rating?" etc.), you need to type information into a window, and will very often discover a well-produced piece of information (video, graphic, diagram, detailed description) that answers your question perfectly.

In order to get the same information from a web forum, you perform exactly the same action (typing information into a window), but instead of a very big computer spending 0.002 of a second to present you with pre-produced information, an actual human being, who has a job and a family and other obligations, has to sit down at his computer for five to twenty minutes, perhaps do a little checking in his manuals or on line, type an answer, re-read it, edit it, and post it.
By asking questions here whose answers can be easily found on line, you are expecting other people, who don't even know you, to take time out of their day and answer your questions for free.
That sounds a bit entitled to me.



A parts store will probably not have them to rent, but I see them all the time at flea markets and yard sales foe $2 to $5.
It's an essential tool, and you should have one.



Yes. I agree with OldsManiac. It wants to start and sounds like it wants just a bit more fuel.



Yes.



Why? Use it. What else are you going to do with it?



That is a problem. You need to find out why the fuel pump is not pumping fuel from the tank.
First thing to do is put a hose from a gas can to the fuel pump and check the volume and pressure.
Second thing is to put a hose on the steel line from the tank and suck on it to see if you can pull the gas forward.
If you can't pull gas forward, and there is a restriction (you create a vacuum), then the fuel sock is probably clogged.
If you can't pull gas forward, and you just pull air, then the hoses to the tank are cracked, or the steel lines have pinholes.

- Eric

 

I agree from the video that it should run. Doesn't take much compression for a gas engine to run.
Clear up a few things for me, so I understand.
Are you just pouring gas down in the carb? How much?
You can put gas in a oil squirt can and squirt it as it cranks. i suggest you have a dry rag handy in case it backfires and catches on fire. Be careful if you try this.
You can connect it to a cycle or mower gas tank with a hose to the carb and gravity fed it, which is what Eric (the other) was suggesting. Or go from the pump with a hose to a can.
It is possible the timing chain jumped, common problem on Olds and Mopars. You can follow Erics' timing light instruction.
Have you followed any Oldsmobile manual when re-assembling, or troubleshooting?

 

Well guys I really appreciate all of the help; I went to go back and work on the car on Saturday and someone came and took it.
Bill: the guy who owned it; was at work and his friend had stopped by a few times when I was working on the car saying I wouldn't be able to break it free and such. Well he saw me break it free and decided to pull it out and take it to his house. Without telling anyone.
It's not my car but I was really trying to make it be mine.
I guess I'll have to let this one pass then. It's one of Bills good friends that took it, So he knows where it is but I don't think he's gonna try to get it back any time soon.
Figures someone would take it seeing the progress I was making on it.

 

Yes, it does. In fact, it was completely predictable.

As I said a week ago,
I'm sorry that you wasted your time and got your hopes up.

- Eric

 

Not to be cruel, but the old rule of you snooze you lose is still alive and well... If you were going to buy it you should have done so before doing all the work.

 

Yeah I agree;
Well my plan was to get the motor running and pay the guy monthly or something. I don't have the money to just hand him cash at once
Military doesn't pay much and I'm not allowed a second job

 

The problem was, that while the car was not running it had no real value with its owner, when you brought out its potential... we know how the story ends. Learn from your mistake and save your money. I'm sure other opportunities will arise, they always do.

PS, from an old Vet, thanks for your service.

 

Oh well, you learned a few things. Hope you did not put out money on gaskets, etc.

 

Nope he paid for everything and gave me $40

 

Hey, you're ahead $40 and a whole boatload of experience, all, in the end, with no risk of actually screwing up your own car -- if you did anything wrong on this car, you're completely in the clear.

Not a bad deal in return for some fair-weather wrenching time and a few skinned knuckles.

- Eric

 

Couldn't agree with you more! And I got to teach my girl a thing or two and get her excited about old cars!

 

... Priceless.