2GC Carb Rebuild
#1
2GC Carb Rebuild
Rebuilt the carb on my '78 Starfire. Lots of documentation on how to do it, except: idle mixture screw adjustment. All I can find is they say don't make an adjustment to these unless rebuilding the carb. I tried backing them out 2 turns each (swag), then setting all of my adjustments. Is that the right thing to do? Is there a technique for setting the idle mixture screws?
Thanks,
Thanks,
#8
You'll have to get in line way behind me if we're lining up in order of how many times we've been wrong, but yes, the 2GC was used, I think all the way up through 1980 (but I'm not positive on that), in the V-8 H-bodies.
#10
No caps on mine. I can use a flat head screwdriver or a 6 point socket to adjust mine.
I find it very odd that the adjustment information is not to be found in any of the factory manuals. In the three replies I got on this thread, they are all slightly different on how to do it. Seems almost like witchcraft instead of science
I find it very odd that the adjustment information is not to be found in any of the factory manuals. In the three replies I got on this thread, they are all slightly different on how to do it. Seems almost like witchcraft instead of science
#11
I use a vacuum gage hooked to manifold vacuum
With a stock carburetor, I start 1.5 to 2 turns out from fully seated.
Adjust the screws for maximum vacuum reading achievable at idle rpm. Adjust one mix screw, see the result then match the other one. Reset idle rpm if needed.
counterclockwise turns richen. Clockwise turns lean the mix.
If when you richen the mix the rpms go up, the engine likes the additional fuel. If the rpms do not rise, youv ereached saturation point where more fuel will only hurt. If you go too far rich, you'll get a wavy uneven idle.
I look for the point where if I go rich a half turn on a single screw, there seems to be no effect on rpm, but also where if I go half a turn lean, the rpms will drop a little. I view this as the "tipping point", where youre getting max vacuum
As mentioned above, some people like to go a fraction of a turn leaner from there, I believe primarily to avoid fouling plugs at idle.
With a stock carburetor, I start 1.5 to 2 turns out from fully seated.
Adjust the screws for maximum vacuum reading achievable at idle rpm. Adjust one mix screw, see the result then match the other one. Reset idle rpm if needed.
counterclockwise turns richen. Clockwise turns lean the mix.
If when you richen the mix the rpms go up, the engine likes the additional fuel. If the rpms do not rise, youv ereached saturation point where more fuel will only hurt. If you go too far rich, you'll get a wavy uneven idle.
I look for the point where if I go rich a half turn on a single screw, there seems to be no effect on rpm, but also where if I go half a turn lean, the rpms will drop a little. I view this as the "tipping point", where youre getting max vacuum
As mentioned above, some people like to go a fraction of a turn leaner from there, I believe primarily to avoid fouling plugs at idle.
#12
HOWEVER...
The reason why your '78 manual doesn't describe this procedure is because the carburetor is supposed to be properly set and sealed at the factory, and so never need further adjustment.
In order to adjust it properly, you technically need an emissions sniffer to check the levels of the appropriate gasses. There will be a procedure for this somewhere, either in one of the GM submanuals that they published in these years, or in an aftermarket manual, such as a Motor manual.
I wouldn't lose sleep over it.
- Eric
#13
I use a vacuum gage hooked to manifold vacuum
With a stock carburetor, I start 1.5 to 2 turns out from fully seated.
Adjust the screws for maximum vacuum reading achievable at idle rpm. Adjust one mix screw, see the result then match the other one. Reset idle rpm if needed.
counterclockwise turns richen. Clockwise turns lean the mix.
If when you richen the mix the rpms go up, the engine likes the additional fuel. If the rpms do not rise, youv ereached saturation point where more fuel will only hurt. If you go too far rich, you'll get a wavy uneven idle.
I look for the point where if I go rich a half turn on a single screw, there seems to be no effect on rpm, but also where if I go half a turn lean, the rpms will drop a little. I view this as the "tipping point", where youre getting max vacuum
As mentioned above, some people like to go a fraction of a turn leaner from there, I believe primarily to avoid fouling plugs at idle.
With a stock carburetor, I start 1.5 to 2 turns out from fully seated.
Adjust the screws for maximum vacuum reading achievable at idle rpm. Adjust one mix screw, see the result then match the other one. Reset idle rpm if needed.
counterclockwise turns richen. Clockwise turns lean the mix.
If when you richen the mix the rpms go up, the engine likes the additional fuel. If the rpms do not rise, youv ereached saturation point where more fuel will only hurt. If you go too far rich, you'll get a wavy uneven idle.
I look for the point where if I go rich a half turn on a single screw, there seems to be no effect on rpm, but also where if I go half a turn lean, the rpms will drop a little. I view this as the "tipping point", where youre getting max vacuum
As mentioned above, some people like to go a fraction of a turn leaner from there, I believe primarily to avoid fouling plugs at idle.
Thanks for the step by step. Can I assume this is done with the engine fully warm?
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tribunicus
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November 5th, 2009 06:37 PM