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I bought a 1970 Cutlass SX Convertible. The car is gorgeous except I will greatly appreciate your help and/or direction with troubleshooting the following: I want to begin ruling out the simple issues, and progress to more complicated issues in order to repair or replace the inoperative items.
1. The drivers side vent does not flow air. All other vents operate. Any ideas on how to correct?
2. Ignition buzzer is not operating.
3. Cigarette lighter does not work.
4. Cruise control does not operate. Everything looks connected under the hood. It looks like there are two (2) wires under the dash are not connected.
5. The sweep hand on the clock works. However, the hour and minute hands never change. The car is not equipped with a tachometer. I either want to repair the clock, or install a combination tic toc tachometer, whichever is simpler.
6. The rear window on the convertible is equipped with a rear window defogger that doesn't work. Although I will not use the defogger, I want to get it working.
7. The AM/FM stereo has four speakers, and the sound quality is poor. I want to improve the sound quality. One (1) speaker in the front, one (1)speaker in the rear, and two (2) speakers, one (1) inside each kick panel. The sound quality is poor. I want to keep the car looking original. Any ideas on replacing the speakers with better quality speakers in the front and rear? In addition, the speakers inside the kick panels are either 2 1/2" or 3". Any idea where I can find good quality speakers? My goal is to increase the sound quality.
As always, I will appreciate any help that you provide. Thank you!!!
Last edited by twilightblue28A; June 3rd, 2018 at 12:37 PM.
Reason: Context
1. Follow your ducting. Probably an air door or a disconnected duct.
2. I think those are contacts in the lock cylinder. Most people do not care about this.
3. Check your fuse and power on the circuit. Also, the lighter might be dead.
4. You need a chassis service manual for that one.
5. Need to see if the hands are off the shaft, or if it is broke. Sending it out for rebuild is possible.
6. I'd check power in the trunk well from the wire loom coming to the rear of the car. Unplug the defroster and check and see if you have power when on.
7. Kick panel speakers are not original. Stereo is weird in Olds. Crutchfield makes good speakers. Turnswitch.com has reproduction originals.
X2 with what Koda said...except for the clock. Get that puppy converted to quartz, and never look back. Contact member oldspackrat, he may have some done in stock.
I'd love to see some pics of your convertible top window defogger set-up. I'd like to add this to my car (which is currently under construction) but I have only seen it on hardtops.
2. I think those are contacts in the lock cylinder. Most people do not care about this.
Agreed about not caring, but it also may be as simple as the wire is unplugged at the horn relay (that's what I did with my cars).
Originally Posted by Koda
3. Check your fuse and power on the circuit. Also, the lighter might be dead.
Another thing to check is to make sure the wire is plugged into the back of the lighter. It is a push-on style bullet connector and may just be disconnected. If you remove the clock, you can reach into the hole and access the rear of the lighter.
2. I think those are contacts in the lock cylinder. Most people do not care about this.
Sorry, but you think wrong. The key buzzer switch is a separate item from the lock cylinder. I surgically extract mine any time the steering wheel is off. Most people simply pull the buzzer wire off the horn relay.
To the OP: Buy an original factory Chassis Service Manual, which has the correct answers to all your questions. Don't waste your money on reprints or electronic versions, as those are all scans of a paper original (there were no electronic originals in 1970). Detail get lost in the scan.
Thanks for the correction Joe, and no need to apologize. I am fairly precise with my language, so, if I am unsure of something, I will say "I think" or "I believe" instead of "it is." Sometimes I will take a first whack at helping someone now, then I can get corrected later on things I have previously qualified like above.
Sorry, but you think wrong. The key buzzer switch is a separate item from the lock cylinder. I surgically extract mine any time the steering wheel is off. Most people simply pull the buzzer wire off the horn relay.
To the OP: Buy an original factory Chassis Service Manual, which has the correct answers to all your questions. Don't waste your money on reprints or electronic versions, as those are all scans of a paper original (there were no electronic originals in 1970). Detail get lost in the scan.
As always terrific work by Joe and on Target. This was my experience with the same problem: My 69 column which looks just like the diagram you have, has the 2 copper contacts for the horn and buzzer sitting down inside of a clear plastic part in a slot in the column.(upper right in picture.You can see the 2 copper contacts sticking out) I think it's made to keeps the contacts in an exact position. This part will break if you look at, and don't bother to try and remove it from an old junk Column. I had 5 break on me. That is what caused my horn and buzzer to stop. The break in the part that holds the contacts caused the contacts to move a hair and caused the failures. I searched the entire USA for months and finally found one. There are 2 differnt sizes as well, a short one and a long one for of course different column's and applications. Put the new contact holder in with the contacts and bam everything back to working order.
Last edited by GoodOldsGuyDougie; June 4th, 2018 at 09:34 AM.
June 3rd, 2018, 12:35 PM
