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1970 cutlass s Ignition lock replacement

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Old Nov 17, 2017 | 02:49 AM
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1970 cutlass s Ignition lock replacement

I already replaced the ignition cylinder but I can’t get it to lock in place. Basically if I pull on it it slides right back out. The shop mentioned taking the steering wheel apart to install a pin or a clip. I read the forums here and see no mention of that. Just wondering if that’s the case. I hope the column it’s self isn’t stripped. FYI I replaced the original lock and cylinder because it could start without the key and also be removed by simply pulling on it. Also it’s the standard column and not the tilt.
Old Nov 17, 2017 | 05:20 AM
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Sounds like you have the wrong lock cyl, 70 used a TAB to keep in place, later cyl used a screw to hold in place. If this is the case you need the right lock cyl, Hope this helps.

Johnny
Old Nov 17, 2017 | 07:02 AM
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Sounds like you also need to find a shop that has a clue...

This diagram should help you figure out if you have the correct cylinder or not.

Old Nov 17, 2017 | 07:43 AM
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Thanks guys I knew something was off about that. I have the correct ignition cylinder it seems the column may be the issue because that tab does not lock to anything. I did read somewhere to push the cylinder in and turn clockwise with the key in to lock it in place. That's my last hope. Like I said when I got the car it had the correct gm cylinder in place but It was not locked in place either. We replaced it with a new gm cylinder but same issue occurs. At least it locks now. All this is part of the reason I have a GPS in the car.
Old Nov 17, 2017 | 07:49 AM
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Joe they know their **** and was probably thinking of the other model. I won't stress over this as I may get a tilted column anyway.
Old Nov 17, 2017 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ddunmore81
Thanks guys I knew something was off about that. I have the correct ignition cylinder it seems the column may be the issue because that tab does not lock to anything. I did read somewhere to push the cylinder in and turn clockwise with the key in to lock it in place. That's my last hope. Like I said when I got the car it had the correct gm cylinder in place but It was not locked in place either. We replaced it with a new gm cylinder but same issue occurs. At least it locks now. All this is part of the reason I have a GPS in the car.
Let's back up. Why are you replacing the lock cylinder in the first place? Was the steering column damaged? The spring tab simply snaps into a recess machined into the column housing. If the old one snapped into place, the new one will also. Who removed the old lock cylinder? Any chance the column housing was damaged during that process? Have you compared the old and new lock cylinders closely to verify the new one is not made wrong? This is another possible problem with repro parts.
Old Nov 17, 2017 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Let's back up. Why are you replacing the lock cylinder in the first place? Was the steering column damaged? The spring tab simply snaps into a recess machined into the column housing. If the old one snapped into place, the new one will also. Who removed the old lock cylinder? Any chance the column housing was damaged during that process? Have you compared the old and new lock cylinders closely to verify the new one is not made wrong? This is another possible problem with repro parts.
Joe I did compare them they are the same. If you read the comment above I mentioned that the old and new cylinder were both GM and are the same style. Also that the old cylinder would turn with no key and it pulls out of column with a single tug. Given the information you guys told me it seems the column is damaged or at least the part that the spring tab needs to connect to column. I say that because the new gm cylinder pulls out with a single tug as well.
Old Nov 17, 2017 | 09:30 AM
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The service book said install lock the way I mentioned. I will try when I get home. I always forget I have that digital copy of the service manual.


Old Nov 17, 2017 | 12:46 PM
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I think my grandpa must of had someone change the lock and broke the piece it latches to when I feel inside it seems shaved 😕
Old Nov 17, 2017 | 12:58 PM
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I think the fact that the outer edge of the housing is beat to hell should be the first clue that some gorilla busted the lock out sometime in the past.
Old Nov 17, 2017 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ddunmore81
The service book said install lock the way I mentioned. I will try when I get home. I always forget I have that digital copy of the service manual.


The need to rotate the lock cylinder with the key while inserting depends on whether or not the rotating tab on the cylinder is aligned with the sector gear inside the housing. I've pulled these cylinders out and reinstalled them without the key, just taking care to not move anything in the meantime. Note that if the sector has been rotated with the cylinder out, you can use a flat blade screwdriver to align it prior to installing the cylinder.
Old Nov 19, 2017 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
I think the fact that the outer edge of the housing is beat to hell should be the first clue that some gorilla busted the lock out sometime in the past.
Joe I think you are right the groove in the inside is rounded like the lip it connects to has been busted. I have a guy in my car club that has an old column for $40 bucks because he switched to a tilted column. That looks like my best option.
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