1970 Cutlass rear jack questions
#1
1970 Cutlass rear jack questions
I'd like to get to the back of the muffler where it's completely blocked by the rear wheel, so I need to get the rear of the car off the ground, as cheaply and easily as possible in my driveway. So my questions are:
- should I use jack stands and if so where is it best to place them
- if I have to buy jack stands, any recommendations on brand, etc?
- if I can't get access to a hydraulic jack, will the original tire jack get the car high enough to use said jack stands?
- if I CAN get access to a hydraulic jack, what load etc should I be looking for?
Thanks!
- should I use jack stands and if so where is it best to place them
- if I have to buy jack stands, any recommendations on brand, etc?
- if I can't get access to a hydraulic jack, will the original tire jack get the car high enough to use said jack stands?
- if I CAN get access to a hydraulic jack, what load etc should I be looking for?
Thanks!
#2
A 2 or 3 ton hydraulic floor jack and some tall jack stands will work for your needs. Jack the rear up by the center of the differential, place the jack stands under the frame in front of the rear wheels, and then lower the differential and pull the jack out of the way. Do not use the bumper jack under any circumstances.
#3
I always carry a simple and cheap bottle jack with a 2x6 and a 4x6 7 inch wood blocks. That and jack stands will get you as high as you will need. The bumper jack is for the judges to look at, dangerous at any height and a chrome wrecker..... Tedd
#4
I would do this only on a driveway that's level. Also, in my belt-and-suspenders approach to life, I always put wheel chocks up against whatever pair of wheels is not off the ground so there's no chance the car will roll off the jack stands.
#5
Safety Safety Safety....never crawl under a vehicle until it's well supported with stationary blocks or stands on level firm ground.
Jack stands go on the strongest part of the rear frame area where the lower control arm meets its mount in the frame just before it kicks up. You will see the beefed-up area there. Hook one or both sides of the jaw of the stand into the frame in such a manner that it will lock into the frame contour(s) and not interfere with the control arm. Or place 6x6 wood cribbing in the same location
For the front place the jack under the main cross member under the oil pan area, centered(make sure it doesn't slip).
The stands go behind the front wheels before the frame C channels. Dont put a stand or jack on the C channel of the frame under the doors. Same applies to a full-frame under a vert even though it's boxed.
I will leave the jack under the car just snugged up to the frame or pumpkin with 99% of the weight on the stands...added piece of mind.
If theres any frame rust integrity issues all bets are off and you should think about its roadworthiness.
As mentioned never use a bumper jack. It will dent the bumper and your head.
Always chock the other wheels. Recheck the chocks after it's in the air before you crawl under it.
Plenty to think about before crawling under a 3700lb car.
Can't go wrong with Craftsman 2.5 ton jack and their matching stands, They won't set you back a ton,(pun intended)
Jack stands go on the strongest part of the rear frame area where the lower control arm meets its mount in the frame just before it kicks up. You will see the beefed-up area there. Hook one or both sides of the jaw of the stand into the frame in such a manner that it will lock into the frame contour(s) and not interfere with the control arm. Or place 6x6 wood cribbing in the same location
For the front place the jack under the main cross member under the oil pan area, centered(make sure it doesn't slip).
The stands go behind the front wheels before the frame C channels. Dont put a stand or jack on the C channel of the frame under the doors. Same applies to a full-frame under a vert even though it's boxed.
I will leave the jack under the car just snugged up to the frame or pumpkin with 99% of the weight on the stands...added piece of mind.
If theres any frame rust integrity issues all bets are off and you should think about its roadworthiness.
As mentioned never use a bumper jack. It will dent the bumper and your head.
Always chock the other wheels. Recheck the chocks after it's in the air before you crawl under it.
Plenty to think about before crawling under a 3700lb car.
Can't go wrong with Craftsman 2.5 ton jack and their matching stands, They won't set you back a ton,(pun intended)
Last edited by droldsmorland; September 7th, 2019 at 10:05 PM.
#7
My suggestion were for a traveling car not one that is in the front yard or your garage. You have to make allowances/compromises when you are doing repairs on the road, at home it's a floor jack stands and chocks and the rest of the good stuff in your cabinets...... Tedd
#8
You've received a good deal of excellent advice. I'll add my own. I own x4 jack stands. Whether I'm working only on the front underside or only on the rear underside, I always place my vehicle on x4 jack stands. IMO, it's more stable & it helps reduce the very improbable/unlikely accidental mishap should someone/something bump the car.
While you're at the parts store, if you do not own one, I suggest you purchase a creeper. Nearly every automotive parts store sells them.
https://www.autozone.com/creepers-an...per/410890_0_0
While you're at the parts store, if you do not own one, I suggest you purchase a creeper. Nearly every automotive parts store sells them.
https://www.autozone.com/creepers-an...per/410890_0_0
#9
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
While you're at the parts store, if you do not own one, I suggest you purchase a creeper. Nearly every automotive parts store sells them.
https://www.autozone.com/creepers-an...per/410890_0_0
#11
Im still using an old towel, myself. All the suggestions are excellent and not that it wouldn't be prudent to have all these items on hand at some point, but the price tag keeps creeping up to seal a tiny hole in the back of the muffler w/ $1.98 putty.
#12
I use cardboard as a creeper. If you need more room to drop your rear axle, I disconnect the rear lower shocks. Also, I dont like using U-clamps, I like using band clamps. Its a lot easier to disconnect pipes from the mufflers.
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