I have the lens cover off of the brake light of my 67 442. I cannot get the buld out. I know how to remove it but there does not seem to be any spring/tension on the buld. Any suggestions on how to get that buld out?

 

Most every automotive light bulb (except for headlights and dash bulbs) is "push down and turn" (lefty loosey). If it won't move at all, it is probably corroded in place and you will most likely end up breaking the bulb, then use a needle nose pliers to work the base out of the socket. I have worked one side of the NN down between the bulb base and the socket wall and twisted the base to the left. They always come out. Clean out the socket as best you can (media blasting is the best way) then use a dialectric grease around the base of the new bulb when you install it.

 

I am assuming it is the lower ones in the bumper as the uppers are very easy to get full access to. If you take a small pick type tool and go from the back side you can push past the wires and assist it in coming out.

 

Sounds like you have some corrosion in the socket and possibly the springs are corroded to the point of deterioration.
Even without spring tension, if the socket is clean, you should be able to twist the bulb and pull it out.
Be careful. I've had the same situation before with a corroded socket.
I twisted the bulb and broke it, cutting my finger.
You have to, carefully twist the glass part of the bulb out of the brass base,
then use needle-nosed pliers to remove the base of the bulb from the socket.

 

Everybody was right on. I kept working at it and the bulb came out (both sides). Bulbs looked OK so I put them back in. the springs are sticky so I lubed them with rust loosen-er/buster and worked them with the needle nose. got some response, but not like new.
Now the weird thing is that when I hit the brakes, the left side bulbs (upper and lower) do not brighten up as they should. the right side comes on strong as a brake light should, but the left side comes on and acts like the normal driving light.
What is with that?

I should add to this that the reason I was working on the bulbs was this: When the parking lights were on, the left side lower bulb was lighting up like the brakes were on even though they were not?

 

Sounds like a faulty ground on the dim side.

 

I think you may have the bulbs installed 180 degrees out in the socket.

Those years sockets were notorious for the metal sleeve getting loose in the plastic base and letting the bulbs orient wrong. The bulb contacts will be on the wrong metal strip in the socket base and you'll have brake light filament lit when running lamps are on, and running lights on the brake light contact.

Buddy bought a repro taillight harness for a 64 GP and one of those sockets came wired wrong. Good thing it was easy to r&r the contact strip.

 

Certainly possible, but a bad ground is far more likely.

 

I had the same problem when I bought my 72. Even after I cleaned and lubed, the spring contacts were still sticking and not making good contact with the bulb, because the springs were weak from rust and corrosion. I wound up buying some used replacements, cleaned and lubed them and they still work fine 8 years later.

 

I suppose as is normal with this electrical stuff, one thing leads to another. Thanks for the help on the bulb issue. I am now replacing the headlight switch because one thing leads to another... and there are plenty of threads on this topic so no need to start another one.
Here is just one:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ing-lamps.html


I have discovered that some of the problems can be as simple as cleaning the contacts in the fuse box..as one member stated...these are old cars!