Damn buzzer going off - cannot find out why when Key in ON position.
Coming from center dash. Believe that is seatbelt buzzer.

Switched over to 3pt harness while ago - ground circuits taped up under carpet. NO problems for months.

Just started recently after I wired in some gauges under the dash.

Questions:
- Horn relay for key buzzer - where is that?
- Does anyone know exactly where the seatbelt buzzer is located - can I get at it through glovebox?

 

If it's the key-in buzzer, it's a part of the horn relay, which is on the engine side of the firewall near the center - follow the sound.

The wire is the pink and black one - just pull it off and you never have to worry about it again.
(Black and green and black are for the horn).


If it's the seatbelt buzzer, it's up under the dash, and you can just unplug it. Once again - follow the sound.

- Eric

 

Thanks. Definitely the seat belt buzzer under the dash

My understanding on how this works....
- when you put the tranny in drive, that position's the neutral switch on column to close contact, makes the seatbelt buzzer circuit hot
- if the seatbelt is retracted - it is grounded, which grounds the buzzer circuit and the buzzer starts its buzzing
- the passenger side circuit is open/closed by the pressure switch under the seat, can also ground out the buzzer circuit

SO, if the buzzer is working in park - the real problem is with the switch - wherever that little bastard is.

Disconnecting buzzer will fix problem.

Just hope nothing else is tied to that magic switch.

 

Honestly, I have no idea, as I have just followed the sound, grasped firmly, and ripped the buzzer out of every car I ever had that had one.

Interestingly, this even worked on my 1998 BMW (though I had to remove a panel to get to the buzzer before I unplugged it).

- Eric

 

I bet when you wired in your gauges, you grounded the black wire that is connected to the buzzer. This wire goes to both the neutral switch and also to the gauge cluster for the fasten belts light.
Disconnect the plug from the neutral switch (at base of steery column). If it continues sounding, then the above may be true.
If it stops, then the yellow wire coming from the neutral switch may be shorted and in need of opening.
The buzzer is ALWAYS hot - it is fed off the reverse light circuit. It is right under the right side of the center AC vents and may be hard to get to.

Green wire from fuse box is +12V, goes to buzzer. Black wires from buzzer go to both the neutral switch and also to the gauge cluster for the fasten belts light.
Yellow wire from neutral switch goes to left retractor and right seat cushion sensor. Other wire from sensor goes to right retractor. Retractors close switch to ground when belt is pulled out.

 

Rob Thanks - appreciate this.

As for the buzzer:
- Found way up, adjacent to the glove box. Able to get at the wires through a plastic plate mid-dash. (note another plate houses a night-light further down over the heater controls) After trying to disconnect a few times, I just cut the green wires and taped it off.

- Does anyone have a pic of the steering column/wiring? I would really like to see exactly where this neutral switch is.

 

Moving on to my GEN light stuck on.

Also noticed my other OIL/TEMP lights are NOT lighting on key-start. Think they are supposed to. I think I need to pull the dash/gauges and check those lights.
Not sure best way to pull these gauges though...

Will do a full underhood wiring check tomorrow. Maybe will turn up something.

Strange enough, my voltmeter is ready 14-14.5v pretty steady, battery seems to be charging fine. Not sure why it thinks there is a problem.

Should find out soon enough....

 

Come on , Everyone likes that buzzer ! Especially the ones with the fluctuating sound . Mine started working about a year ago

 

A picture under the dash can be seen here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post53039
The neutral switch is peeking out just right of the tilted "S" mark on the column. See the yellow seat belt retractor wire?
There are a few more underdash shots int hat thread also.

 

Yep found it. I'll test it with my ohmeter and see what I get.

Meanwhile, this GEN light is driving me crazy. My gauge is showing the regulator working well. On full draw (lights, heater fan, interior, radio) it goes as low as 12v, but no lower. Standard is 14v or so.
So nothing coming up on my physical wiring check. Next step I'll need to get out the multimeter.

 

One key point here which I think is fully related
When I turn the key to ON position, I expect all the idiot lights to turn ON, and NO lights come on.
The GEN light comes on only when the engine is running.

I need to understand WHY the damned lights are not turning on like they should do.

 

Are the gas and fuel gauge working? I assume this is a stock non-rally pac setup...
Tell us more about the new gauges you installed.

 

I put in 3x2" gauge cluster Oil,Temp,Volt - all electrical sensors. Built a wood console - also mounted radio in it.
Radio power from the old radio power circuit, came off the fusebox ignition for the power for the gauges and ran 2 dedicated grounds screwed to firewall. Brown wire from harness near radio for the gauge lights.
Fuel gauge is working.

I have power on the radio circuit for both ON and ACC key positions, ON position for gauges (my fusebox does not have a clip for ACC)

 

I've pulled out the stock fuel gauge/idiot light gauge. Checking all the lights tomorrow to ensure they work. I know the GEN light does.

I think my problem is the power from ignition switch to the cluster.
If there is power to the GEN circuit when ignition in ON, the GEN light should light up - it doesn't, and all the other idiot lights should ALSO light up, they don't.

I assume once engine is running, the brown lead off the regulator is grounding through the lamp (keeping the GEN light on). If the circuit was working as supposed to it would be hot and would not ground.

May be wrong - do need to understand which circuit this is...

 

Just benched tested the generator - passed. No diode problems, etc. Was only putting out 35 amp though (bit low). The starter was $75, a regulator is $130 (which is crazy). I can get an internally regulated unit for $75 at 63amp. Thinking of doing this and bypassing the regulator completely.

At this point, am thinking I do not have a charging system problem, but a circuit problem when key is ON and engine not running. (Based this on what I am seeing with the voltmeter when I load test it in the car).

Does anyone have wiring documentation for the dash warning lights curcuit? I need to verify this.

 

$38 to $56 at O'Reilly.

- Eric

 

Geeze, you can get an entire rebuilt 12SI for less than that.

RockAuto has the regulator for under $10 (plus shipping, of course).

 

Hopefully you can blow this up big enough

 

I hope you have good eyes or a 6ft monitor

 

Ha found it

 

Thanks Guys,
I traced the pink wire - looked OK. Then pulled the fuse AGAIN (lower right) and replaced it, sure enough that was it.
Checked the fuse with ohmeter - seemed to act intermittent, pulled on the end and one came off. Simple damn thing.

So this was responsible for my GEN light, my other idiot lights not working and my seat belt buzzer firing off.

It wasn't a complete waste though, did learn some things:
1) I will need to upgrade my alternator before I install by AC
2) Brake does NOT go on when ignition ON, only hing that activated that is the brake light switch on the parking brake.
3) My temp light activates ONLY when temporarily when I turn the key to START.

Only one last issue
My OIL pressure warning light does NOT go on.

Yesterday I had pulled the gauge, cleaned up the back/connections with rubbing alcohol and tested every light before I reinstalled.

I did put a T on for my gauge and oil sensor and do have it plugged in. Assume if I ground the sensor the light should come on?

Will sort this out today - hopefully can get this last sensor working.

 

Oh yeah - am in Canada, guys.
Agree - getting gouged on the pricing on that regulator - I'd need to call around if I had to replace.

 

One other thing, been meaning to ask Joe....

That vista cruiser do you still own that? Saw one at the Plunket car show up here - pretty cool station wagon (hell of a lot cooler that a minivan!).

Very, very rare up here.

 

I have experienced this several times - drives one mad, for sure!

 

Just reviewing this older thread - somewhat similar problem I will be diving into today.

In my case, recently replaced ignition key cylinder and switch on 1972 cutlass S.
Once reinstalled, I now have intermittent buzzing when turning steering wheel - seems to be a particular rotational angles.
Possible steering column internal wiring short??
In typical fashion, I will try and kill the symptom (buzz) rather than sort out the real issue - save that for later (maybe).

Adding my issue to this post in case someone may have seen similar issue and diagnosed it to root cause.