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What is the pin configuration for the '70-'72 Rally Pack gauges? I’ve traced some of them but I’m unsure of my results and there are several wires I couldn’t track down. Here’s what I think I know, help me fill in the blanks:
Thanks for the quick info. Is it possible to buy new crimp terminals to replace the round connectors? Mine look pretty bad, might be a good idea to replace them and solder them for better connections.
hey i was going through your thread im in the final steps of my wiring. but unfortunetly the guy who was fixing it stiffed me and i ended up loosing my original harness to him. i bought an after market one and it is all wired up with the exception of the guages. as you can imagine it is no longer color correct so we dont know where to plug in the wires on the rally guages. i was wondering if you ever figured out what wires 1 and 7 went to
and refer to this diagram as to the new positions of these wires to convert to the Rallye Pack from Idiot Lights
As to answer your question the Grey wire feeds the lamps and the Brown wire fed the Gen Warning Light but goes back to the ignition switch on the ACC side. Hope this helps Wiring can be a pain at times.
Location: 25 miles North of Tampa, Land O' Lakes, Florida (Originally from Bethpage, Long Island, NY)
Posts: 332
Can anyone recommend a company to purchase a new Dash Wiring set up for my 72 Cutlass with Rally Pack Gauges / Auto. Transmission? I was also looking for something that will handle a newer style radio system.
Hi
i had a reg 72 S years back. the fuel gauge had a dummy light for the GEN and the HEAT.
Now I have purchased a rebuilt 72 442.
what is the correct factory Rally Pac for my car:
a) the 2 pod on the dash where 1 is the fuel\engine tmp\oil pressure (no #'s just lines) and the 2nd is the toc\tach (clock with tach around edges)
OR
b) the 3 pod unit (oil pressure\ engine temp\battery) that went on the bottom the the dash between the steering wheel & radio?
Can anyone recommend a company to purchase a new Dash Wiring set up for my 72 Cutlass with Rally Pack Gauges / Auto. Transmission? I was also looking for something that will handle a newer style radio system.
Hi
i had a reg 72 S years back. the fuel gauge had a dummy light for the GEN and the HEAT.
Now I have purchased a rebuilt 72 442.
what is the correct factory Rally Pac for my car:
a) the 2 pod on the dash where 1 is the fuel\engine tmp\oil pressure (no #'s just lines) and the 2nd is the toc\tach (clock with tach around edges)
OR
b) the 3 pod unit (oil pressure\ engine temp\battery) that went on the bottom the the dash between the steering wheel & radio?
It depends on what was checked off on the options sheet when ordered, as to if it had the Rally Pack or "idiot" lights. Even on the W30's it was an option and not standard. The three pod unit is an aftermarket add on and not factory original.
One thing to remember when doing a conversion from idiot lights to gauges is to disconnect the TEMP check circuit. If it is not disconnected, every time you start your car, the temp gauge will peg to the max side, and then drop off and act as it should. You don't want your temp needle to do that - it could work loose or just stop working after awhile.
With idiot lights, when you start the car, the TEMP light comes when you put hour ignition key in the RUN position, and then go off after the car starts. When converting to gauges without disconnecting that TEMP check circuit, it's that same check circuit action that pins the temp gauge needle.
The temp check circuit can be disconnected by simply backing out the green wire from your ignition harness, down on the steering column where the ignition harness connects into the under-dash harness, and then taping it off.
Can anyone recommend a company to purchase a new Dash Wiring set up for my 72 Cutlass with Rally Pack Gauges / Auto. Transmission? I was also looking for something that will handle a newer style radio system.
Thanks, Pat
Pat, Google M&H Electric Fabrications, Inc. They make all type's of Factory correct harness, and they go by GM Spec's, Use factory correct colors for the wires and correct connectors! I have used there services, and Highly Recommend them!
frank (franks71cutlass)
still broken but i did find a plug un from a 1980 cutlass i just had to switch it over,only broke one wire and it is the white wire. i need to find out what wire goes to what and i need to replace the circut board it is missing a few traces.
One thing to remember when doing a conversion from idiot lights to gauges is to disconnect the TEMP check circuit. If it is not disconnected, every time you start your car, the temp gauge will peg to the max side, and then drop off and act as it should. You don't want your temp needle to do that - it could work loose or just stop working after awhile.
With idiot lights, when you start the car, the TEMP light comes when you put hour ignition key in the RUN position, and then go off after the car starts. When converting to gauges without disconnecting that TEMP check circuit, it's that same check circuit action that pins the temp gauge needle.
The temp check circuit can be disconnected by simply backing out the green wire from your ignition harness, down on the steering column where the ignition harness connects into the under-dash harness, and then taping it off.
Randy C.
New to this forum," this is critical information for the life of your gauges, it sounds like to me." I read somewhere , somebody said to pull the Lt green wire at the guage connector rather than under the dash at the steering column within the ignition plug. Does it really matter where this wire in disabled?? Thanks,Jim
This info helped tremendously! I went ahead and added LED lighting and now I can see the gauges at night. I restored the radio as well and changed the backlighting inside to LED to match the gauges. I added a bluetooth receiver inside and I play spotify and sirius over my radio because there really isn't anything left to listen too on AM or Fm these days. Here's a link:
Thanks! I bought the led lights off eBay. Do a search there are tons of listings. For the radio I just modified a 194 led bulb and hardwired it to 12V switched on inside the radio. These LEDS will last about 10000 hours and they only draw maybe 5 milliamps of current compared to .5A for incandescents. I used these ones but you might be able to get em cheaper.
Here are the pictures I promised. I took some with the illumination off and some illuminated. I think they look pretty good. These are the "alloy face" versions. Good instruction sheet, good support from Dakota Digital and your post made it pretty easy!
CDROD,
don't know if you are still in this forum but about to do the Gauge switch in my 72 Cutlass Supreme and wondered how it all worked out. Also wanted to compliment you on a beautiful car. I took a double take when i saw your avatar. Here is my car and you'll understand why ! My 72 cutlass supreme after 7 years restoration.
J69shep,
I was just going through this post when I saw you comment. I'm about to do the same dash set up with the rally temp,oil,gas gauge and have the blue leds with mine. Nice to see what my dash will look like sometime during this show season. Here are my gauges right now.
The installation was pretty easy from a wiring/install perspective. Like all projects getting the car in the air, squirming around to get in various positions took some work! I went slow, followed the directions very closely and it lit up first time. The only issue I ran into was with the speedometer. The speedo would work fine for maybe 10-20 minutes, then totally die. I suspected the terminal plug on the sensor that screws into the TH-400. I didn't think it was seating tightly enough. I jury-rigged several "solutions", none of which worked. Finally I contacted Dakota Digital. The tech rep thought it might be heat soak from the transmission to the sensor. Dakota sells an extension cable that attaches to the transmission, then the sensor attaches to the other end of the cable. I bought that, installed it, zip tied the assembly as far from any heat source as I could, and that fixed it. It continues to work fine, If you have an automatic, I'd highly recommend getting that cable and using it from the git-go. Doesn't harm anything, seems like it cost around $25. I used $50 worth of cuss words trying to figure the issue out! Dakota was alway helpful and prompt with responses. I like the look of the gauges. I was happy enough I bought a set for my '56 Chevy too.
J69shep,
I was just going through this post when I saw you comment. I'm about to do the same dash set up with the rally temp,oil,gas gauge and have the blue leds with mine. Nice to see what my dash will look like sometime during this show season. Here are my gauges right now.
hey Ragtopblue. Came across this old thread looking for other dash related stuff and really like your lighting. I have been contemplating doing something very similar. How/what did you use to illuminate the wiper switch and HVAC controls. Is that just an LED strip or did you use something different? Thanks!
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by 96powerstroke
.... How/what did you use to illuminate the wiper switch and HVAC controls. Is that just an LED strip or did you use something different? Thanks!
The Cutlass Supreme came with the auxilliary lighting package. It's a harness that runs from one side of the car to the other and includes the missing lights you're describing if you have a base Cutlass or Cutlass S. They're plug and play units. The pigtail already exists on the main dash harness. You just need to run the auxiliary harness and plug it in. I think you will need the metal light pod for the left side of your dash? Not 100% on that though. If you look behind the lower intermediate dash it might be there as part of a standard package. GM did stuff like that back then because it was simpler and easier that running details on every car. That's also why your dash harness will have all those extra plug ins that aren't used except for some options. BTW, if you don't have lighting over your heater controls the lights there are probably burnt out because that was standard illumination package then.
Allen R is right, 96powerstroke,
My car started as a Cutlass Supreme, so the courtesy light harness and the metal plates were in the dash already. But I'm sure you could get them through Facebook parts people. I use Scott Winn for needed parts his prices are really fair. You can get the blue lenses aftermarket and they are not to pricey. Or I might have an extra set of driver quality blue lenses. I was able to use the blue LED's right with the OEM sockets there too.Here is the Rallye Gauge conversion chart you will need to convert to the Rallye gauge from the Stock idiot light gauge, You will need a slot bladed jewler's screwdriver or a terminal tool kit. i got the kit and it was worth the $29.00. I will look for courtesy light pictures from when I did my dash for you.
Allen R is right, 96powerstroke,
My car started as a Cutlass Supreme, so the courtesy light harness and the metal plates were in the dash already. But I'm sure you could get them through Facebook parts people. I use Scott Winn for needed parts his prices are really fair. You can get the blue lenses aftermarket and they are not to pricey. Or I might have an extra set of driver quality blue lenses. I was able to use the blue LED's right with the OEM sockets there too.Here is the Rallye Gauge conversion chart you will need to convert to the Rallye gauge from the Stock idiot light gauge, You will need a slot bladed jewler's screwdriver or a terminal tool kit. i got the kit and it was worth the $29.00. I will look for courtesy light pictures from when I did my dash for you.
hey folks! Thanks so much for your input. I do know what you’re taking about with the lighting. your pic with the blue LEDS just looks so much better than I’d ever expect to see with those two areas illuminated. I know of Scott so I’ll reach out and see if he has any extra left hand lighting stuff. My car has an existing unit above the HVAC but that’s it.
I considered mounting a surface mount led strip in that area. I just don’t want to cut any holes in my dash. Otherwise I’d mount some other led lights. I’ll try it this way first so it’s sort of factory original. Thank again!
I just purchased a rally gauge from a 1976 Cutlass and will be installing it into a 1975 Supreme. The wiring on the 1975 is similar to the 1972, but has a black wire in #4 (Empty pin)
Can anyone tell me if it's a direct replacement, or do I have to repin the connector? Also do I have to change any of the sending units? Parts numbers would be helpful.
Thanks for any help provided.
Last edited by dctazz; February 13th, 2021 at 06:52 PM.
Reason: Correction
I just purchased a rally gauge from a 1976 Cutlass and will be installing it into a 1975 Supreme. The wiring on the 1975 is similar to the 1972, but has a black wire in #2 (Empty pin)
Can anyone tell me if it's a direct replacement, or do I have to repin the connector? Also do I have to change any of the sending units? Parts numbers would be helpful.
Thanks for any help provided.
Hi I installed the rallye gas gauge in my 72 and had to disconnect the black wire. If you have the seat belt warning buzzer/light then you'd need to keep it connected. In the 72 when the conversion from the stock gauge to the rallye pac occured. I did find out that the wires are changed around in the dash connector. So make sur you get the correct rewire schematic for you new gauge,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ! So you understand what I mean by the connector rewire. Here is what I had to do for the conversion on my 72 gauge. But you'll need to get the correct one for a 76. And purchasing a terminal wire release tool set is also very helpful in not damaging the pins in the connector.
Anyone know where you can purchase the terminals for the gauges / speedometer? Do they have a name for them? They've led me across and internet several times, and it's left me blank. There some kind of roll over locking terminal, not sure if they have a name for em.
OldManSkully,
Did you try contacting American Auto Wire ? They might supply them since they build harnesses for classic cars. Or Painless wire. They might be the same people.
February 23rd, 2014, 04:02 PM
Wiring can be a pain at times.
Rallye Pac question.
