When the engine is off, and cold (or the gauge pack is out of the car) will the temp gauge fall to cold and the oil gauge fall to low or will they both rest in the middle?. thanks

 

They go to the lowest reading, usually slightly below.

 

x2

 

This is interesting to know, as the repro rally pak gauges stay at the exact position at when the ignition is shut off.
Looks like we now have an easy way to tell the reals from the repros!

 

Thanks, so the oil, temp needles should be in the low positions when there is no power to the Pac (or the gauge is out of the car..), and if they are not, this might indicate a potential issue with an original gauge Pac….?

 

Help!

Has anyone installed a "Tic-Tack" gauge from a blank gauge? I have the wiring to the coil done but there are two connections that need to be made. Here are the instructions:
1. Find and connect the orange wire from the clock (I did not have clock) and connect to the Rally Tach “Batt” terminal.
2. Find and connect the Gray wire on the existing harness and plug into the Gray wire with gray connector wire leading from the Rally Tach “Inst Lamps”

If I did not have a clock are there still the Orange and Gray wires and connections?

 

Ok, long story short. Been restoring my 69 Cutlass S ragtop for last 25 years. Acquired a mint rally pac years ago, had tic toc tac quartzed out and installed it all. Fast forward to now and I stumbled on this forum and joined and rewired the temp/fuel/oil pressure gauge as posted here in gauge pkg section and also pulled the green wire from the column to eliminate the test procedure at start up. Now my question. How is this gauge supposed to behave/react when key is turned to ignition at start up and also when turned back to accessory ?
When I turn the key back to accessory, the Gen light glows a low glow and the needles for the temp and oil go to C and L respectively. When the key is in ignition mode, the Gen light burns bright and the temp and oil needles behave the same as in accessory mode. Is this normal ? I don't know myself cause I've never seen the rally pac in action in any other car cause they've all had idiot lights as mine did before I scored the Rally PAC. I must mention that my car is not running yet cause I need a new fuel pump. Another Holy grail hunt for where I live, but will have it running next week as I have a pump on order and should come soon. Then I can see how the gauges function when the car is running. But does anyone have answers as far as my ignition/acc key position questions ? And yes, I put in the proper sending units for oil pressure and temperature.
Thanks in advance...
Axle F.

 

Did you move the wires around in the gauge pod connector as required for Rally Pac installation?

 

Yes, I followed the diagram you posted and triple checked before plugging it back in. Can't start the engine till the new fuel pump comes hopefully next week to see how the gauges react while it's running and warmed up, Temp and oil pressure readings. There's no fuel in the new tank yet, so the fuel gauge is reading empty of course. And , I put a new sending unit in the new gas tank before Installing all of that, so I'm confident that will work fine. We'll see anyways.
Was just wondering how the gauges are supposed to react when key is turned to ACC and ignition positions. Mostly ACC because Im not liking how the temp and oil needles bury themselves to Cold and Low if I leave the ACC on for any length of time for like listening to the radio while parked.

 

I am having similar issue with my temp gauge. When vehicle off, the temp gauge reads about 1/3 from C. But when I start engine, it goes below C and stays there even when hot. The sending unit was replaced last year and should be good. Any thoughts?

 

Can anyone show a pic of where and which green wire to pull for to stop the temp gauge needle from spiking to Hot. I've pulled a couple with mixed results, but needle still spikes with every try. I'm done till I get the correct info on where and which green wire to pull.
Thanks....

 

Ok, figured it out. Dropped the steering column and found the harness. Had to disconnect the signal harness and was then able to access the ignition harness. It's the plug with a thick orange wire and one thinner green wire. Carefully got the green wire out of the connector with a thin screwdriver and taped it up. Connected the negative back on the battery and fired it up. No spike and waited for the needle to move as it warmed up. Success ! Put it all back together and never touching it again. Thanks all for input. Hope this helps others too.