Hello All. I have a 1967 Cutlass (base). The original dash clock will run for approximately 5 minutes after turning the **** to reset and then stop. Sometimes if I just push the **** in, it will start but only run for the 5 minutes. This happens whether the car is running or not. I checked all the wiring behind it and cant find anything missing or loose. Anyone ever hear of this before? Thanks

 

Time for a Quartz Rebuild. The Old Originals are Spring loaded mechanical.

 

It's gunked up.

You have a small chance of being able to fix it by removing it and cleaning the mechanism with a high-quality electrical degreaser, then relubricating the pivot points with extremely thin clock oil, applied with a toothpick.

The fact that it does run for five minutes at least implies that the winding coil isn't burned.

One other possibility is that the winding coil points are burned just a bit, and aren't quite making contact, but that manipulating the controls allows momentary contact so that the clock can wind itself for the next five minutes, which is as long as the mainspring lasts.

Does the clock emit an audible dull "Thunk" when you do the things that make it run?

If that's the case then just cleaning the points may do the job.

- Eric

 

Yup!!

 

 

Ok. Let me try this again. Thanks for the info Eric. I'll give it a shot. Im not too savy with these things but I'll give it a try. Thanks again.

 

When you open the clock, do not touch the Spring!!.
The Points are the most common failure point.
Find the points. Its a lever that's part if the 5 minute winder.
The points are very small. When the points touch, it will charger the Magnet and
cause the winder to Repel away from the magnet, thus Winding the clock for 5 more minutes.
The point will become pitted after a few years.
Since the points are very small, you must be carful when you sand the points.
If you sand them too much they will be gone.
I use a 2" by 1" sliver of 200 grit sand paper folded in half and slid between the points. Lightly sand both surfaces of the points.
Then clean.
I am still running my original 42 year old clock.

 

You can try to fix the original as Miles71 stated, but if successful, you still have a clock that isn't usually very accurate. A quartz conversion is pretty easy and straight forward. The only way to tell the quartz movement has been installed is that you will not get the "thunk" every 3 to 5 minutes as the spring is wound, and the second hand will move smoothly, rather than tick, tick tick, one second at a time...and it will keep perfect time for years with no adjustments.

 

I have a 72 Cutlass Supreme with a non-working tic-toc-tach. How hard is it to get into the clock? Would the suggestions below apply to that type clock as well? I would rather leave it alone than risk damaging the face or the tach.

 

where can you get a quartz clock kit ? and how much $ ?

also where can you get a replacement set stem ? mine is missing the stem

 

I use Bobs Speedometer in Howell Michigan .
Bruce is honest and does Great work.
I have about 10 rebuilt 66/67s ready to go.
Ron

 

I have not used anyone for this type of repair, but I did see someone on another thread say that they used Redline Gauges (http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com). They said that they could do quartz replacement or recondition. Whoever you go with, be sure to post your experience to help out the rest of us. Thanks.

 

Just use Ron you won't be sorry

 

this article looks pretty helpful

http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restora..._old_car_clock

 

If you want to send it to me, I can fix it. If it's not burned up or rusty, I can make it run. Quartz are nice, but it's nice to hear that original "click", too. I've fixed 100s of original clocks of all brands, and makes. If I cannot fix it, there is no charge.
Jerry~

 

I like the click and the movement of the second hand over quartz ones, but I know other makes of the 60s clocks kept terrible time, pretty much need resetting every few days.

 

Yep, but if it's been properly serviced, it can be made to keep good time. If it's a '60s era Borg clock with a second hand and no fast/slow adjustment, the trick is to wind it ahead 12 hours if it is slow, and back 12 hours if it runs fast. Keep doing this until the time gets close, then just make the small movements to keep it on time. Eventually, the clock is calibrated in this way, and "learns" to keep good time. My '68 Toro clock gained 10 minutes a day at first, and took several backwards winds to get it to slow down. Now it is just about perfect.
I even fixed the Geo. Borg clock in the '37 Olds I'm currently restoring. The first thing I hear when I throw the battery switch is the clock winding "click". Cool!!

 

Good info, thanks