Ok guys, here's the facts as I know them.

I got an engine that won't run. It cranks over but there is no spark in the ignition setting. I get power to the coil in the ON and ACCESSORY settings, but when I crank it the power disappears. Thought it was the HEI wire, bought a new one, no problems there. Got a brand new engine wiring harness and a battery, didn't fix anything. Bought a new ignition solenoid (used the old tumblers) and still the same problem. Any ideas? We're all stumped here.

 

Do you mean ignition SWITCH or starter SOLENOID? If it was the starter solenoid, then check your ignition switch, the start position is a different set of contact points from the on and accessory positions, it should provide the 12 volts to your coil plus a momentary signal to the starter solenoid to engage the starter motor. If the starter motor is turning but you have no 12 volts WHILE CRANKING the motor then it is probably the switch. If you bought new tumblers for the ignition switch you may still have bad contacts in the switch, I think the tumblers just allow the key to turn in the switch is all.

 

You need to help us out here. What's the car, the engine, and the distributor. It sounds like we're talking about a 68 that's been retrofitted with HEI?

 

If your engine turns over, the starter selenoid is fine. Your little electronic module probably went out in the HEI. I cant remember what its called. its the chip in the bottom that goes out every once in awhile

 

You can have the HEI modules checked out at your local auto parts store for free.

 

Sorry Joe. 68 Olds 442 with a 70's 455 in it. Upgraded to HEI.

Olds, I bought a new ignition module. The metal part which plugs into the wires in the dash and you can swap the tumblers for the keys, etc. I used the old tumblers, think I should go buy new tumblers and keys?

Jeremiah, the starter(new) will engage and turn the motor over, but when I crank, there's no spark in the wires. I have power when the switch is left to snap back into the ON position but it all dies when we crank. Does that sound like a chip? As far as I know the distributor is new but I may be wrong.

 

I'm sorry, I missed your comment about changing the HEI wire.

 

Bah, no biggie. I just hate electrical stuff. I am no good at it.

 

OK, first, the thing under the dash is called the ignition switch. The ignition module for an HEI is in the distributor below the rotor. Also, which HEI do you have? be sure you've got the one with a vacuum advance canister. The ones off a 307 use the computer to control advance and will not run properly in a standalone mode.

If you get power to the distributor in RUN but not START positions, then someone didn't properly connect the distributor. Keep in mind that the points distributors had two wires going to the coil, one from the START position of the ignition switch that was pure copper and one from the RUN position that had a resistor built into it. BOTH need to be connected for the HEI to work properly in an older car, but the resistance wire needs to be replaced with pure copper also. It sure sounds like the START wire didn't get hooked up.

An easy way to test this is to disconnect the power wire from the distributor and run a hot wire directly from the + side of the battery to the BATT terminal on the HEI cap. Be sure to wire a toggle switch in this wire so you can turn the engine off. Turn power on and crank the engine. It should start, or at least you should get spark. Use the toggle switch to turn the engine off. If this works, your problem is the wiring between the ignition switch and the HEI.