Installed a new ignition switch in a 65 442. Starts fine but won't shut off. Now what?

 

Whoops! Do you have a wiring schematic you can use to trace the wires? It sounds like you've got something crossed, but I'm lousy with electrical stuff! Back to the top to see if someone else knows where to start looking


John

 

All I did was unplug the old switch and plug in the new one.

 

What was the reason you changed the ign switch?If all you did was unplug old and plug in new then i'd say put the old one back in.

 

+1.

- Eric

 

It may be the wrong switch? It's not cutting off your power to the ignition.

 

Wrong switch is the obvious answer, or a faulty one. Look for a teensy 3-digit PN-last-3 clue on the original. Then get a GM NOS unit. Assuming it needed to be replaced for some reason..... what started this project? Why?

Usually, if the functionality of the contacts differs, they arrange the contacts differently so that you physically cannot plug the car's harness onto the wrong type switch. New one made in China, by any chance? Was ANYTHING else worked on or changed at the same time- starter solenoid wiring, ignition, etc.?

You can of course verify operation of the switch itself with an ohm meter or test light and battery. "IGN" shall not be connected to "BAT" when in the OFF or ACC position but is connected during RUN and START positions... etc.

 

I defintely have the correct ignition switch and tumbler -- if you need....
I may even have a n N.O.S. == DELCO == Ignition switch.....

Would have to check.... am in the library to use computer---

Call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935.... New York....

 

Old switch was not always starting on first try. It was old. Nothing else was done or changed. I supposed new one is bad, but checking the two with an ohm meter they are the same. Looking into another new switch.

 

Chinese switch?

If you can get an NOS one, DO THAT. Seriously.

 

Says made in USA, looks just like old one. But there isn't a part number on either. I'm looking into NOS.

 

Chinese switch?

If you can get an NOS one, DO THAT. Seriously.

 

Decided to go with Craig, of mobile parts, in a post above. He had a new switch at a good price.

 

Finally getting back to getting it repaired I believe I have traced the run-on after ignition off to one of two things. Either the ignition switch or the regulator.

After using a test light and removing wires from a fenderwell junction one at a time I discovered that with the switch off, and the starter removed from the circuit I am getting sparks when hooking up the negative cable to the battery until I remove a 2 wire,(with one connector) from the junction on the fenderwell.

When I remove the wires from the "BAT" terminal on the regulator I get no more sparks when hooking up the battery, but when I put that connection back on the junction and remove the Red wire from the "BAT" connection I still get spark until I remove the black wire, then no more sparks when I touch the negative cable to the battery, even if the red wire is still hooked to the "BAT" terminal.

I'm not sure why the starter would still turn the engine after the switch is turned to the off position, but apparently the solenoid is getting feedback from one of the circuits hooked to the "BAT" terminal, which would appear to be the black wire.

Still more. After installing new regulator I've still got the same problem with the starter still turning the engine after I shut off the switch.

I've checked all wires to be sure nothing is crossed.

It is getting feedback from somewhere, but I guess my problem is it all worked until I had the starter rebuilt. When I suspected the starter I took it back out and had them check it, but all checked out fine.

It all worked fine until I had the starter rebuilt(by a reputable shop).

Baffled.

Thanks for your ideas.

Larry

 

Wait a minute.

Are you this guy?

Because if you are, you are giving us completely different information and describing a completely different problem than you did before, and if you're not, you need to start your own thread about this completely unrelated problem, which is almost definitely being caused by your starter solenoid sticking.

- Eric

 

That's what I was thinking.
Either different guy, or the story has changed.

as for the latest story:

"Finally getting back to getting it repaired I believe I have traced the run-on after ignition off to one of two things.... [delete some poor troubleshooting practices]... I'm not sure why the starter would still turn the engine after the switch is turned to the off position..."
========================
First off, let's be clear that the STARTING system is pretty much independent of the IGNITION system. They come near one another at the IGN switch, and meet briefly at the starter solenoid, during starter operation, in order to bypass the resistor wire that feeds the ign coil from the firewall junction. The STARTING system has exactly one function [in addition to perhaps the previously mentioned resistor bypass]- to spin the engine over. There's only maybe 6-8 major components, if you count generously.



After installing new regulator I've still got the same problem with the starter still turning the engine after I shut off the switch.
===============
That is a STARTING SYSTEM malfunction.
The CHARGING SYSTEM is yet another entirely separate system.


It is getting feedback from somewhere, but I guess my problem is it all worked until I had the starter rebuilt. When I suspected the starter I took it back out and had them check it, but all checked out fine.
==============
One of the Rules of Repair- always check first, the last thing "fixed".
It sounds like either the solenoid is defunctive [sic] and failing to release, or, you have gotten the small wires reversed and the resistor ign wire is feeding voltage down TO the starter's S terminal via their common junction at the coil, which therefore causes the starter to operate anytime the ignition is on.

It all worked fine until I had the starter rebuilt(by a reputable shop).
=================
always check first, the last thing "fixed".
Either the starter, its solenoid, or the manner in which its wires were reattached is therefore the cause of the problem. Perhaps have a DIFFERENT place ck out the starter and solenoid.

Either way, some proper troubleshooting is in order. While the starter is out, verify the 2 small starter wires behave correctly fat purple "S" wire should have 12V -only- when the key is in START position. The smaller [yellow/bk?] bypass wire should be attached to the coil's (+) terminal along with the resistor wire, and so should show oh about 8-12V when the ign switch is in RUN or START.

Was the starter brace/ ground strap left off or put back in place when the starter was installed?