I'm assuming, like most other cars, the diot lights, (Gen, Oil, Temp, and the last) on a 72 cutlass are all supposed to light when you turn the key, correct?

Only like I've ever seen is the Gen light. I got under there today and started swapping bulbs, nothing. I tried the known good socket from my Gen light spot in the oil slot, nothing. What gives? Why would the Gen light work, but none of the others?

Ideas? I thought this was going to be a fifteen minute project, and I just spent an hour scratching my head...

 

GEN and OIL should light when the key is turned on. TEMP should also light when engine is cranking. Buff the copper pads on the circuit board as well as the contacts on the sockets. A wire brush on a dremel is ideal, but a fresh pencil eraser works, too.
Check the pins on the board for tighness and good solder joints.

 

I came in looking for a similar answer to a question I have...after re-reading the owners amnual for my '68,it states that the Gen & Oil should only come on when the key is turned to the on position.

The Cold will only light if the sensor says it's cold (not sure what that temp would be) and the Hot should light upon starting the engine so you know it is operational.

For some reason though,there have been times when I've turned the key and all four light lit up before starting the car,but i think that has happend after the car has sat for an extended peroid,I never really kept a close tab on it.

When I turn my key to the left for acc, the Gen light glows but very dim,not sure what that's about though and it has done that for as long as I can remember.

 

That's a feature - my 72 has it also. There is a resistor wire going to it when in acc mode, to (I guess) remind you that the key is in acc...

 

Any idea how to remove the gauges? I seem to be missing a bolt or something as I can't get the gauge out without removing the wood trim.

 

If by "wood trim" you mean the plastic bezel with the woodgrain that surrounds the three gauges, that is correct. Remove the Phillips head screws holding it in place, remove the bezel, and you'll see the bolts that hold the gauges to the dash.

 

Thanks I had removed the two screws on the top, but it wasn't coming out, and I was afraid I was going to break it.

This is what I found on the back of the cluster. Seems the copper strip burnt out. Can this be repaired, or do I need another cluster?

20130525_131438_zps07d86271.jpg

 

Yes, that can be fixed! polish the foil on both sides with a pencil eraser, clean them, then solder a thin wire from one side to the other. It will take a good fast soldering operation, as too much heat too long could damage it more.
However, it is best to find out WHY that opened up like that. That trace is a +12V line that feeds the oil and temp lights. See if a previous owner put in the wrong bulbs or if there is a short int he sockets, etc. If so it should be evident.

 

Thanks. I took a pair of speaker wire and made a jumper. The HOT and OIL light lit up. AWESOME!

Is the brake light supposed to light up while cranking the engine over or with the key on? That's the only one out of the 4 that doesn't light up. I already checked the bulb.

OH WAIT, THE BRAKE LIGHT MIGHT BE A WARNING IF THE EMERGENCY BRAKE IS ENGAGED. Is this the case? (My ebrake cable was removed before I bought the car, came with the car though so I can't check it.

 

Great!

It comes on only if the e-brake pedal is depressed (switch is under the dash on the back of the mechanism) or if the distribution block senses a fluid loss from front or rear.