hey guys,

last night i was looking at some dashboards from 1st gen toros...

my 1970 toro only has these idiot lights but a 1966 toro has real gauges for water temp and battery.

do you guys think that it is possible to put that water temp gauge in my 1970 toro?

i guess i need to change at least the temp sending unit(s)? what about the wiring? you can see that the 1970 panel has 7 connector pins while the 1966 panel only has 6.

here are the panels:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Oldsmob...637d5d&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Oldsmob...item3f1a33c0ed

 

With the right tools and enough determination, you can do anything.

- Eric

 

ok...i recently found out...that the 1966 toro has only 1 temperature switch while the 1970 toro has two of them (and it has 2 idiot lights).

so maybe that is plug and play...change the temp. switch in a 1970 toro to one from a 1966 and change the panel...no need to touch the wiring harness...afaik.

 

I think you'll be able to change them by rearranging some wires on the plug. To use the ammeter may require some different wiring around the main splice.

The two temperature switches on 68-70 are for two different things. The "HOT" warning lamp is triggered by the temp switch on the intake manifold. You will also see a "STOP ENGINE" warning light in the same pod as the HOT light. That one is triggered by a temperature switch mounted into a special bolt on the LH cylinder head and is the 7th wire you see on the 1970 panel.

I always figured if the cylinder head got hot enough to trigger that lamp, some serious damage is already done. To test its operation, with ignition ON, lift the wire off it and ground it to the engine block. If it's like my 69, it will light and then begin to flash.

 

that is exactly the info i need...thx for that.

definately gonna try that with the temp gauge...dont really know about the ammeter..we'll see

thats why i want to have a gauge..it will tell you there's something wrong BEFORE damage is done

 

Just wondered if you ended up trying this and what the outcome was...

I have wondered if this would work myself. I seriously hate idiot lights. I have been extremely tempted to just buy a gauge cluster from a 1966 or 1967 to see if it would work. However, I would seriously hate to go to the trouble of removing my instrument panel, moving over my speedometer, hooking it back up, and it not work...

That entire dropping the steering column and removing the drivers side portion of the dash is a serious pain. Although that is the only way to get access to everything...

 

yeah it tried this..you have so switch the wires that feed the idiot lights..and you also have to install the correct switch on your intake manifold..but thats plug and play.

it definitely helps to have wiring harness diagrams of both..donor car and your car.

i could'nt figure out why the indicator needle shows full heat while cranking the engine...it drops back immmediately as the engine runs

as for now i've installed an aftermarket gauge just to see that the original gauge was right...engine ran to hot...so i'm rebuilding it

 

Great!!! I think I will study it a bit and give it a shot...