another turnsignal problem

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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:42 AM
  #1  
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another turnsignal problem

I have a 72 cutlass and my turnsignals wont work. Bulbs are good, fuse is good, and I'm getting power to the fuse. But, when I have the multimeter on the fuseblock it says 11.8v or so and when I hit the signal stalk it drops to 10.5v and stays there. I replaced the flasher and that didn't work. So, what should I try next? Thank you,
Sam
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Pghstarsky
I have a 72 cutlass and my turnsignals wont work. Bulbs are good, fuse is good, and I'm getting power to the fuse. But, when I have the multimeter on the fuseblock it says 11.8v or so and when I hit the signal stalk it drops to 10.5v and stays there. I replaced the flasher and that didn't work. So, what should I try next? Thank you,
Sam
What does the voltage go to when switched back off? Does the emergency flashers work? Sounds like it could be corrosion.
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:22 AM
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It goes back to 11.8 or so when the stalk is put back. And the hazards do work as well as the stop lights. The only thing that doesn't work is the back up lights and the turnsignals. What could be corrosion?
Thanks
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Pghstarsky
It goes back to 11.8 or so when the stalk is put back. And the hazards do work as well as the stop lights. The only thing that doesn't work is the back up lights and the turnsignals. What could be corrosion?
Thanks
Well if the hazards work, sockets are good, you might swap the flasher turn signal with hazard, unless it's a single flasher.
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:34 AM
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I did that too, I put the flasher from my hazards which I know works into the turnsignal one and still nothing...
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:55 AM
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Do the brake lights work?
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:00 PM
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Yes.
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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I'm sure you do have since the voltage drop, but the ignition switch is on?
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:07 PM
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Ignition switch is on, car was not running.
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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I have a simplified schematic on turn signals in my service manual, basically the turn signal switch breaks the circuit from the brake light switch. I don't have anyway to send you a image right now as my wife has the digital camera, and away for a couple hours. I wish I was more help. It also has a troubleshooting flow chart, let me get back to you, and I will trace it out.
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:17 PM
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Thanks for your help, it's very appreciated...I really hope it's something easier than a new turn signal switch.
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:19 PM
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Basically following it down to hazards work, no turn signal either side, if fuse and fuse block is good, put test light (or your voltmeter) on the purple wire in turn signal connector on steering column.

if test light dose not light on either side, says you have an open from fuse block to fuse to flasher,( I'd say check continuity, anyway).
If you have power on the feed side only, contacts are dirty in connector.

Test lamp lights on both sides, repair wireing from the connector to the switch, or replace turn signal switch assembly.

This is what I have.
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 01:59 PM
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Okay, a couple questions...how do I test this purple wire? Do I ground on one side and put the other on the purple wire? And also, which contacts are you speaking of possibly being dirty?
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Pghstarsky
Okay, a couple questions...how do I test this purple wire? Do I ground on one side and put the other on the purple wire? And also, which contacts are you speaking of possibly being dirty?
Purple wire will be the positive, clip ground from your VOM to frame. Contacts it is say are the connector on the column, from the pruple wire from the fuse/flasher, check it, voltage, check on the other side of the connector, voltage, it is in the switch. No voltage on either side of the connector, either fuse or no voltage from fuse block or flasher.

I can email (if my camera will shoot since it is back now) the TS flow chart if you want.
kkoloff@aol.com
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