I'm having issues turning off my engine (I can take the key out and the engine still runs) and I want to go ahead and replace the ignition switch. I've never done this before so does anyone have steps to it? I tried googling and didn't come up with anything since most instructions dealt with ignitions on the column.

Any help? Also, this may be dumb, but what does IIRC stand for when it comes to this topic?

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Stick the key in the ignition, stick a paperclip in that little hole to the right, and push the paper clip in and turn the key one click (can't remember if it's right or left). Pull the key and the cylinder will come out. Once the cylinder is out the retainer can be spun counterclockwise with a pair of open needle nose pliers stuck into two of those four little grooves and the ignition switch can be removed

I seem to remember IIRC meaning "In my recollection" but I don't know how it pertains to this.

 

Hmm, I tried with a safety pin, but couldn't feel anything that actually pushed in (and the cylinder didn't come out). I'll see if I can find a paper clip and give it a shot. Thanks

 

IIRC = If I Recall Correctly

You may have to wiggle the key around a little bit. Paper clip FTW (For The Win).

 

Here I am, a 25 year old computer engineer that came across an internet acronym that I didn't know haha. Don't worry, I knew FTW.

 

You have to turn the key counterclockwise to the ACC position while pushing in the paperclip in the little hole, may take some pushing/wiggling on the key as well.

Greg

 

Got the ignition switch and a new one is on the way. Hopefully this will do the trick and make it so my car engine stops like a champ. Should I have just replaced the ignition lock while I was at it and do I need to re-grease areas?

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More information. With the ignition switch out, I plugged up my battery and notice that my generator light still comes on. Now is this maybe because the dash/ignition completes the ground to close a circuit, or is my problem not even related to the ignition.

 

Got the new one and the connections don't match my old one! Is my new one just wrong or is my old one not original???

The one of my left is the original one and the one on the right is the new one.
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The switch on the left is correct for 68. I don't know what they sold you but it isn't for a 68 cutlass/442

 

Mike is correct, the one on the right is wrong. Who did you get it from?

NAPA has the correct switch for $22.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...(P_RecType%3aA)

 

Damn, got it off ebay and paid more then $22 :-/. I'll return it and see if I can pay a visit to NAPA. I wish I would have thought about checking them first!

 

Maybe call first. My local NAPA store doesn't have it in stock, but they can usually get any part they offer next day. I order it over the phone and they get it shipped in from their warehouse.

 

Advance Auto Parts shows one for $14.49, but the picture looks like the one you got that's wrong.

I'd take a look at the actual part, as the photos are sometimes just "examples."

- Eric

 

Eric, the one he got that was wrong only has 5 terminals, the correct one (and the one in the pic on the Advance Auto link) has 7 terminals.

However, you are correct, a look at the actual new part is helpful.

 

D'oh.

I thought it was the other way around.

Never could tell my left from my right.

Thanks!

- Eric

 

AAP's website says it doesn't fit my car, but looks exactly like my old one. There apparently is one at my local one I may have to check out. Had my first baby yesterday so my free time window might be slim. Wife would probably kill me if she new I was looking up car parts instead of baby supplies hehe

 

You'll still make time for your Oldmobile. Have fun...ah yes....the diaper and middle of the night feedings...

 

Congratulations!

Just tell the wife (and thank Heaven some people still get married before having kids ) how much the baby loves to ride in the Olds - falls right to sleep as soon as you get rolling, even if (s)he was inconsolable at home .

As for AAP's listings - as far as I know, there's only one switch like that, no matter what they list. It should fit.

We expect plenty of 3am posts from you .

- Eric

 

So I got my new ignition switch but alas, still have the same issue where my engine is not stopping when the key is out. It seems if I start the car, unplugged the battery and turn on the lights and brights, the engine shuts off. I think there is a short somewhere, but where can I check? Here is more background of what I've done that might help with diagnosis.


1) Replaced the started 3 weeks ago. Car ran fine and then I went to list item 2.

2) Took off front bumper (fix alignment), light bezels, and misc other front end items to repaint. All the lights still work so I thought I correctly put everything back correctly.

3) When I have the battery plugged in and budge the power cable, I here sparks in the "tube" of cables in the picture below.

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Question: When you turn the brights on a 68, are all 4 headlights suppose to turn on or is it suppose to switch between the normal beams to high beams? Currently, mine switch but I seem to remember all four working at one point.

P.S. Baby is doing great!

 

All four headlights should come on at once.

... And if you've got sparks when you jiggle wires, for the love of Ransom E. Olds, go in there and fix that short before you burn your car up!!!

- Eric

ps: battery hot wire shorted to starter solenoid coil wire will make your car impossible to turn off.
Also probably kill your battery and burn up your coil.

 

Ok, I lied, apparently all my lights turn on so that seems good. But Eric, with your PS, are you saying that my hot wire from my battery to the solenoid is probably the culprit? If I have time, I'll try to jack my car up and check things out tomorrow.

 

Well, I don't know, but you should have four wires going through that tube:
1. The heavy (2 gauge?) wire from the battery to the big solenoid terminal
2. The "Start" wire (probably purple) from the ignition switch to the "S" terminal of the solenoid
3. The wire from the other small solenoid terminal to the (+) terminal of the coil (yellow, I think).
4. The wire from the big solenoid terminal to the horn relay that supplies current to the rest of the car (red, about 10gauge, I believe).

Of these wires, #2 is only energized while holding the ignition switch to "Start," and #3 is only energized while the solenoid is being pulled in while starting (basically the same as #2).
That leaves #1 and #4, which are both hot all the time, #1 is not only hot, but very large, connected directly to the battery, and capable of delivering arc-welding current levels to ground if it is shorted there (good for starting fires).

I'd disconnect the battery until you get to it.

Also, with wiring, it takes two to tango - If a hot wire is bare, it needs another bare conductive surface to complete the circuit. This could be ground (potential for several hundred amps of current to flow and melt metal), or it could be one of the other wires (allowing current to flow, for example, to the coil all the time). Just because you know there's a problem with one does NOT exclude the other.

Good luck!

- Eric

 

Eric,

You hit the nail on the head. I checked the battery cord to the solenoid and it was against the engine and didn't have any cover. I applied a quick and temporary fix of electrical tape (will just replace the cord asap) and boom, car turns off now. Looks like I have an extra ignition switch I'll put on the shelf. Thanks for all the help once again guys. If any of you are pass through Kansas City, let me know and I'll buy you a beer ;-)

 

Glad you found it!

Don't forget that hot wire - the juice to keep the car running is coming from somewhere...

- Eric