I have a 1984 Olds Ninety-Eight with 307 gas engine

I've had this car since 1997 and up till now has been very reliable.

A few months ago, just driving city streets like 5 miles, it konks out.. towed home.

Changed the coil and ignition module, checked and cleaned grounds, wire connections, etc Checked ohms(852) of pickup coil and no shorts.

OK good again..

6 months later same issue, just driving city streets like 2 miles, and dies again, towed home.

Let it sit in driveway, next morning fires right up, revs up great!.

Looked down in carb, accelerator pump squirts nicely. Again engine revs up nicely.

I'm sure I can drive it for a bit as before BUT Afraid to drive anywhere, to get stuck again.

Any ideas of what to check next???

Fred

 

Fred, when you changed the coil and ignition module did you get a "ketchup style packet" of thermal paste to put on the bottom of the 7-pin module? This is essentially the same paste used on the bottom of computer chips. That MUST be present or you will have reoccurring ignition module failures.

Actually, it's a good idea to carry an extra ignition module in your glovebox as they're generally cheap imported junk nowadays.

 

I installed some NOS AC Delco ignition module and coil I had and the ignition module had heat transfer grease in it..

 

I've swapped the 4-pin ignition module in my HEI distributor on the side of the road more than once. Next time it does you might bring along a test light and test for spark on one of the spark plug wires when you crank. I'll bet you find she doesn't have any spark until the engine completely cools down over night.

 

I've had this same problem with the VIN Y 307 in my black 1985 for several years now. The car runs great, then for no reason will just shut off. I coast to the side of the road and after about 30 seconds and some cranking and pumping, the engine refires and runs normally. I was going through this about once every three weeks or so, but the car might go months before doing it again, or it might happen every other day for a week then disappear. I long suspected crud in the gas tank that was getting sucked up against the inlet screen. I finally replaced the tank and sender about a month ago. I also noticed that woodland creatures had gnawed on the rubber lines coming out of the tank, which might have compounded the problem. This is my daily and so far it's been running great. The only issue is that the Spectra replacement tank has some sort of kink in the inlet tube that causes the gas nozzle to click off prematurely if I leave it on full flow. This is kind of a PITA at gas stops. I have to hold the nozzle JUST so to prevent that.

 

I put a new gas tank in and pick up screen in 1997. Yeah been a awhile but only have put 60K miles since. Maybe changing fuel lines might not be a bad idea.

Mine won't refire after a few minutes more like the next day after a tow home. When its dead its dead..not a hit of refire..

One would think a fuel problem would show up on the freeway first not on street driving.

Going to change pick up coil next..

 

In my case it was random - sometimes on the freeway, sometimes on surface streets. Always at 35 MPH or above.

 

plugged in my GM Code reader and got 1 long pause and 2 short blinks from the Engine check light = Code 12.

I assume this is a good thing? and read ECM system passes.. Is this correct?

Thanks
Fred

 

If you are reading the blinking Check Engine light, Code 12 is ON - pause - ON - ON - long pause - repeat.

 

Joe,
I typed wrong I meant TWO short blinks not three so I got a Code 12.

Is this a good thing??

 

One then two more is normal, so there are no stored codes in the computer.

 

12 means no distributor reference signal, the car isn't running. If you didn't get 12 that would be a problem. As Joe said, no codes are stored.

 

Interesting that you said that. The Spectra tank in my Wife's Rivera does the same thing. They actually sent me a replacement under warranty but I have been too lazy to swap it out. I don't know if it will make any difference anyway. It is a Royal PITA

 

Let's say the car dies again while driving.

to determine if the ECM crapped out, and get the car running again.

Can I just jumper terminals A and B on the OBD to bypass the ECM ie the timing will be set at the initial timing advance. I believe the car should run but not that great, as the timing would not advance as the ECM is jumpered out but maybe enough to get home limping along??

Is this possible??

Fred

 

Test response - are you able to see this?

 

Yes

 

Would like a response on this question..

 

Jumping the A & B terminals of the OBD connector is done to read codes in the RUN position. I've never heard that it sets your distributor to base timing.

If you don't want to get a test light to do the test I mentioned earlier you can always remove a spark plug wire from a spark plug and ground it to the frame or upper control arm. Crank the engine and you should see the spark from the spark plug wire jumping to the frame.

 

If you disconnected the ECM and put it the trunk, a half healthy engine with a good fuel system, and ignition system will run indefinitely abet with a decrease in engine performance.

 

on page 6D-31 of the factory 1984 Oldsmobile Service manual, it tells you to jumper terminals A&B to set the initial timing. I have to show this to just about every smog tech who tells me my timing is off

 

* Yes, you are correct according to the Oldsmobile Chassis manual.

1986 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual

 

I've heard this before.

 

I have the info on page 6D 30 from the Original Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual.

 

OK kids..

5 Months ago I installed a new fuel pump. and has been running fine since, but now need to pass CA smog eeerrrrrhhh....

The symptoms seemed like ignition as I would change the ignition module , then coil, and would run for away.. Yeah I know throwing parts at it without really understanding the real problem..

New Fuel Pump solved it...