Working on a 1964 Cutlass convertible that had sat for around 20 years. We had it running a few weeks ago after sanding the points and rigging up a temporary fuel system. Drove it around the yard a bit and it died and now it won't crank over.
I'm stumped. I am a beginner so I'm kinda learning as I go. I've replaced battery cables and it has a good charge, cleaned up connections on the positive junction post and on the ground cable and all the wires going to the starter. I've had the starter out multiple times now. Tested good at the auto parts store. I've cleaned up the block and starter mounting surface and I jumped the connection going to the neutral safety switch. I have hooked the starter up to the wires in the car, grounding it to the battery with some jumper cables. And it works great with the key. But as soon as I mount it back in the car it will not crank. It clunks like it was trying to engage so I thought maybe the teeth weren't lined up or something. So I turned the engine over by hand and something clicked and now nothing happens when turning the key. Also there is two ground cables on the block going to the battery, I've tried both and there was no change. So I was thinking maybe the starter isn't grounding good, but I cleaned up the block where it mounts so I'm not sure what it is. Any suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks
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Welcome!

If you don't already have one, I'd suggest you start with purchasing an LED DC voltage test light with a built-in voltmeter, they are about $20. Also consider buying an old vintage original factory GM service manual for your car.

For now, turn on the headlights and watch them while someone attempts to start the car. Are they bright without cranking? What do they do while trying to crank the engine? Do you have battery voltage to the purple wire from the neutral safety switch to the solenoid while trying to crank the engine?

Do you have a known good battery you could try?

 

Thanks for the quick response. The lights do not dim down when trying to crank they remain bright. And the purple wire has voltage with the key both in the on position and the cranking position.
The battery is a few years old but holds a good charge and worked to get it running previously.

 

The purple wire at the solenoid has battery voltage while trying to crank?

What is the battery voltage at the positive battery cable at the starter while trying to crank?

Is there any chance the yellow and the purple wires were swapped at the solenoid?

 

The purple wire should go to the S terminal, the yellow should go to the R terminal on the solenoid.

 

Yes the purple wire has voltage at the solenoid when trying to crank. The starter has 12.6 volts when trying to crank.
There is no yellow wire just the positive cable, the purple one, and a smaller gauge black wire. I don't think they could be switched because the posts on the solenoid are different sizes as are the connectors on the wires. And I happened to forget to plug in the small black wire when I had the starter hooked up and sitting on the fender to test it, and it would crank regardless of it being plugged in or not. But as soon as it's back in the car, I get nothing no matter what I try.
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Sounds like either a bad solenoid or starter.
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When the solenoid gets battery voltage to the S terminal it pulls in a disc inside the solenoid and connects full battery voltage and current/amps to the starter motor through the small tab that sticks up out of the starter motor and screws/bolts to the solenoid. That disc can sometimes be turned over and reused on its opposite side

If that connection at the solenoid to the starter motor tab is good/clean/tight and gets battery voltage in crank mode the starter has a problem.

 

Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation. I might try whacking it with a hammer and see if anything changes. Otherwise I wouldn't mind replacing the solenoid or starter and seeing if it works then. But unfortunately I won't be able to mess around with it more for a few days. I'll try to post an update. Thanks for the help

 

Battery is garbage ("a few years old").

 

Hitting it with a hammer is definitely worth a try. Since the car sat for years the starter may just need a cleanup inside. They're not complicated, you should be able to disassemble/reassemble one.

If it needs service I've had great success with local independent rebuilders. It may even be original to the car.

 

It could be original. The pinion has a "REBUILT" stamp on it from some point.
I could go have the battery tested. But it seemed to be just fine. I'm on a budget so I'd rather not buy a new one if I don't need to. Plus we tried putting the jump pack on it and nothing changed.
The car has been off the road since 1983 and hadn't ran for at least 20 years. It sounded like a pretty healthy engine when it was running. I believe it has just over 100,000 miles. But it is pretty rough. The floors are gone, lots of dents and damage. It was rusty back in the 80s so it only got worse over time. The frame has large chunks missing. But it is sentimental and is a great opportunity to spend even more time with my grandpa. So it would be cool to get it going again and we can decide what to do from there.

 

The lights not dimming does point toward the solenoid and/or starter. Do get the battery load tested.

What color combo? Mine was yellow/black.

 

 

Sorry it has been so long, I have finally got more time recently to work on the car. The battery is good, I put in a reman starter and solenoid. The car will start if I jump the purple wire on the junction post. But with everything plugged in, the ignition switch will not engage the starter.
Is there a way to test the switch or is there anything else in the system that could cause this issue? Does there need to be a key in the ignition? But we previously started it with the switch without any keys and it seems like the switch suddenly stopped working.

 

Make sure you are in park. I know you said you jumpered the NSS but what you are describing is a lack of power on the purple wire when the ign switch is turned to the crank position. You need to concentrate your troubleshooting to that issue.

 

I messed with the purple wire and there must have been a bad connection under the dash because it is working with the key now! Thanks everyone for the help

 

Glad you got it figured out. On a side note, that frame is toast I would not drive it that way.

 

Agreed, I don't plan on it. Not sure yet what my next steps will be.

 

The next step is replacing the frame.

 

I was gonna say...