Today, my convertible top closes, but will not open. I hear the electric motor when I use the switch to close my top, but I hear nothing from the motor when I use the switch to open the top. If the problem is the switch, how difficult is the switch to replace? Access under or behind the dash is difficult. The car has factory air, buckets, console AND aftermarket gauges. '71 Cutlass Supreme convertible. Thanks.
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Check the connections on the pump and the switch. Use a test light and see if you are getting power at the pump on the down cycle. You can use a jumper at the pump from the up side on the plug to the down side on the pump and it should go down. You might be able to take the switch apart and clean the contacts if that is the problem.

 

The good news is correct repro switches are only about $70. I've had one in my '72 for about 8 years now with no issues.

 

Thank you. If the switch is bad, what's involved to access the switch. Factory Air car. Console , buckets and aftermarket gauges.

 

The easiest way to take out the switch is to pull the left side gauge (fuel gauge or fuel/ oil/ temp gauge). It is still not without difficulty as you have to contort your wrist around the back of the dash and work without being able to see what you are doing, but it is easier than pulling the A/C ducts and trying to get under the dash with the seat in the way. That is the way I do it at least.

 

I'll do anything to avoid working on my back, under the dash, with the seat in my way and the AC ductwork. I no longer can fit in certain spots, and that spot I dread. I even tried Tylenol before and after, same area, different problem, not good. Oh I wish Faulkner Oldsmobile was still in business. I'd drop off my car and pick it up when ready. Seems like working blindly may be the least of two evils, hopefully......and I'm left handed.

Thank you

 

Vintage Chief replaced his a while back and posted how he did it. Through the gauge pod as said above and used a mirror to see behind the dash. Do a search for that post.

 

Faulkner Olds - in Northeast Philly?

Grew up there in the 70's, remember that dealership very well off of Haldeman and Bustleton Aves.

 

Small world. I ordered a new '70 convertible at Henry Faulkner Oldsmobile at Cottman and Algon Avenue, Philadelphia, PA. They then moved to Haldeman Avenue and quickly outgrew that space. They are a mega dealer with multiple sites. They sell every brand, including Porsche, but no Oldsmobiles!!

 

And if I remember correctly, Sloane Chevrolet took over their space - it was located directly across from Northeast High School and right next to Burger Chef (which would go onto become part of the Burger King franchise).

But I digress way off course Follow the advise you got above on how to tackle the switch, being aware you'll be working in very close quarters. the switch has 2 small 1/4-head bolts to remove and one butts up in close proximity to a dash frame brace (the top bolt if I recall correctly). TBH, when you realize how much of a PITA it may be to get the old out, might just want to put a new one back in and be done...

 

Replacing the switch wasn't that big of an ordeal compared to the R&R of other dash devices. I'm heading out for my Geezer Pleaser Influenza vaccine. Tom (above) did a good job of describing access to the switch. As Kenneth suggested you can search under my username (Vintage Chief) & find my write up & I think I provided the part number for the switch. I'll review this thread when I return.

 

Here's the part number for the switch....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/114222714705

 

Well, I can't find my own post regarding R&R or the top toggle switch. None-the-less, it's same as Tom described in Post #5. Once you remove the gauge pod, use one of the swivel mirrors (on a stick) & a small pen flashlight so you can see/validate that back of the toggle switch. Dang, my post has to be around here somewhere.

 

Here are several images I took after removal of the toggle switch demonstrating the backside business end of the switch which should help you to orient your view from the back.
NOTE: I labeled "T" (Top) & "B" (Bottom). Wish I could find my post instead of reinventing the wheel.

 

I used a 1/4" drive socket to remove the small bolts/screws holding the switch to the dash. My socket drive is about 5" - 6" long & slid in there rather nicely.

 

Agree. Install a new switch. The issue w/ these convertible top toggle switches is there exists no relay. OEM circuit breaker on the feed is rated @ 40 AMPS. Albeit, you're drawing Northwards of 15A - 40A directly through the toggle switch. No telling exactly how beaten up the electrical posts are on your old/current switch. Install a new one.

 

Thank you for your information. I can assure you that I will replace the switch. I'm not going through this work twice. No way.

 

This visual aid is extremely helpful. I appreciate your help. Thank you.

 

Thanks again. Very helpful. One picture=1000 words.

 

[QUOTE=70sgeek;1598007]And if I remember correctly, Sloane Chevrolet took over their space - it was located directly across from Northeast High School and right next to Burger Chef (which would go onto become part of the Burger King franchise).
You are correct. Faulkner's property became Sloane Chevrolet. I think it's a Toyota dealer now. And speaking of Burger King, across from Northeast High School, I remember the property being a donut shop with a 360° turnstile for drive in service. Talk about digressing.. 😂

 

You're not crazy. I remember reading your post and I remember you referenced using a mirror. I also remember you writing that replacing the switch was not that bad.

 

Remove the wire harness connector first as you'll want as much leverage as possible pulling the connector away from the toggle switch. You're going to find the Top screw is easier to remove than the Bottom screw & part of this is visualizing the bottom screw as it sits nearly flush against the wall of the dash - still, you'll get it. So, remove the top screw before the bottom screw.

 

Note the white piece is a Top/Cover Plate which goes over the top of the switch in its mounted position. Therefore, you'll be saving the white Top/Cover Plate. The Top/Cover Plate holds the switch into position & secures the switch to the backside of the dash.