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My 1969 Olds 442 is in it's final stage of restoration. All my wiring has been replaced with GM spec wiring from American Auto Wire and all lights and signals were suctioning properly. I recently had the steering column out to replace the key lock pin and buzzer switch. Now I've noticed the right turn signal doesn't work and the left parking light doesn't come on when the switch is pulled for parking lights. First is there a procedure for using a test light under the dash at the plug to check the signal switch? (I've checked all the lights) This is the male leads from the switch while the column was out of the car. They and the female are easily accessible so if if there is a test procedure I could try it would be helpful. Thanks, Al
This is a 68 diagram but should be the same for 69. With the plug on the column connected you can probe the darker blue wire and see the test light blink when the turn signal is actuated.
The first thing that concerns me is that the picture of the turn signal connector you've posted doesn't match the wiring colors in the 1969 CSM wiring diagram.
Before worrying about the switch, you should test the harness in the car. The connector in the dash harness that mates to that turn signal switch should have ten wires in it. Use a jumper (preferably fused, but I have to admit I never use a fuse) to connect the following wires in the dash harness connector to a +12V source and see if the corresponding lights come on.
DARK GREEN - RH Rear Stop/Turn filament (but NOT the tail light filament in that 1157 bulb)
YELLOW - LH Rear Stop/Turn filament
LIGHT BLUE - RH Front Turn filament
DARK BLUE - LH Front Turn filament
In all cases, if the correct filament in the bulb illuminates (but not the second filament) then the wiring and sockets and bulbs are all good and the problem is the switch. If any of these four tests don't work, the problem is in the car harness or the sockets or the bulbs. If in any case BOTH filaments in one bulb come on, you have a bad ground at that socket.