I have both a CSM and a BSM for my 65 Cutlass but neither one has a wiring diagram. Where do I find one?
A previous owner messed around with the ignition wiring so that now the engine remains running if you quickly switch over to accessory. I also suspect that the resistance wire may be blown as there is a Chrysler style resister mounted to the firewall, however on closer inspection only one wire is connected to it, leading me to assume 12 volts are being supplied to the points all the time. I will check this out.

 

A color wiring diagram should be in electrical section of the CSM and covers ignition electrical. Does it look like anyone has ripped out pages?

Body manual has line diagram for the body wiring (power windows, convertible top etc).

 

Page 13-2 to be exact. Full color wiring diagram for the 1965 A-body cars.

 

Attached.

 

Thanks guys, I thought it should be there and even thought I saw it, but dosn't look like anything was pulled out. Will check again. Thanks Jaunty fore the image.

 

After closer inspection I found that the 3 pages with the wiring diagrams were stuck together, fortunately only along the edge.

 

That's a winner! Now to get the wiring buggery corrected!

 

Definitely some buggery going on, lol, and I find this stuff confusing enough without someone screwing with it.
I've discovered that that the wire going to the coil is connected to the power antenna plug on the fuse box. It looks like a Chryco style resister was connected between this wire and the coil, however it had been bypassed. Therefore I was getting full battery voltage to the coil and burnt points.
When I disconnected this wire from the coil and left the original wires connected I measured battery voltage (13.7) at the coil with key in ignition position. I think it should have been approx 7-8v right? If the resistance wire was faulty it should have infinite not zero resistance ?? Just spit balling, but is it possible that the coil is getting 12v from the solenoid even when it's not engaged?

 

No it's not possible to get the voltage from the solenoid unless the key is in the start position. You should get 9v with the engine running.

 

Basic Ohms law. You will see battery voltage at the coil wire without a load. Connect the power feed to the coil, and assuming the points are closed, you should see 7-8 volts. If the points are open, the meter will ready basically battery voltage.

 

Thanks, guys. That's what I thought, Old Cutlass and it has been too many years since I studied electronics.

 

I've got another question, where is a good place to connnect the power for an electric fuel pump?

 

I prefer to use a relay with an electric fuel pump triggered by a keyed 12v in the key run position.

 

Don’t wire an electric fuel pump to a ignition power source without some kind of safety switch! If your in an accident snd incapacitated, and can’t switch off the ignition do you really want the fuel pump to stay running?!

Look into something like this.

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...:1,prmr:1,cs:1

 

Oil pressure switch and relay on order.

 

Where is the best place to source a ignition on 12v to go to the oil pressure switch.
Matt your link quit working could you try reposting it, thx.

 

I got this project completed! Now on to the next.
thanks for the help.

 

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...:1,prmr:1,cs:1


here it is again

 

That's clever, but for a fraction of the price, you can do it with a Standard Motor Products PS64 oil pressure switch the way the factories have been doing it for decades. The NC terminal powers the pump while cranking to prime the carb, and the NO terminal powers the pump when the engine's running and there's oil pressure. No electronics, no relays (the switch is designed to carry the current of an electric pump), just a simple oil pressure switch. Fewer failure modes, fewer parts, higher reliability. The only thing I would do differently from this diagram is to use two fuses, one in each power wire into the switch, rather than on the output side of the switch.

 

I’ve been using Joe’s solution in both of my big cars for years and it works well.

It works so well in fact, that I forgot I did it, and it took me 15-20 minutes to figure out why I didn’t have power after I blew a fuse one time. Heartily recommended.

If you do it, locate the fuse in an easy to replace location. Like _not_ under the J bypass hose, close to the oil pressure switch listed above.

Must get around to fixing that one day.

cf