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I wanna put a coold air unduction system under the hood of my 65 cuttlas and want to put the snorkeling the in the position where the high beams are.
Anyone do the same? Dont want to loos the high beams so need to find a lamp where low and high beam work together in one lamp.
Hope some one can help.
Thanks
I made the air cleaner myself out of two good air cleaners. Only real trick was you need to make a little rolled flange on the end of the snorkels to keep the hoses on - otherwise they pop off.
The tubes, couplers, air horns and screens are all Spectre parts. You have to cut out most of the middle of the headlight bucket and, I think, modify the mounting plate a little, for the hose to get through. The driver side will be difficult if the battery is still there.
Spectre sells a complete kit with a tall chrome cleaner. I actually have one of those that I need to sell - I have the air cleaner, filter, two hoses and clamps left over. I temporarily used that kit until I got this air cleaner done up, then used the horns and screens out of that kit and smaller hoses. I think their kit uses 4" hoses, but I went with 3" hoses to fit the stock snorkel a bit better.
The outside light should already work the way you want it to. If it doesn't, then the high beam part of that bulb is probably burned out.
The stock wiring will power EITHER the low beam circuit OR the high beam circuit. High beam goes to both sets of bulbs. So you'll get light, and it's located at a different spot in the bulb so the light is focused further out, but you won't get MORE light. I completely re-wired this car, so I just changed the light control so turning on the headlight always power low beam and hitting the floor switch ADDS the high beam. All the usual stuff with conversion bulb housings or higher output bulbs and relays also applies.
Huh. A brief look at the Spectre website looks like maybe some of this stuff has been discontinued..... Might be a bit of a challenge to assemble all the parts, but this kind of thing is done regularly, so I'm sure they're out there somewhere.
The outside light should already work the way you want it to. If it doesn't, then the high beam part of that bulb is probably burned out.
The fact that the low beam bulb also has a high beam filament does not mean that the light output is the same. If you delete the high beam bulbs and don't replace them, you've a) cut your high beam candlepower in half, and b) lost the "high" part of the high beams. The low beam bulbs are aimed down and to the right by design. The high beam bulbs are not.
Ich habe den Luftfilter selbst aus zwei guten Luftfiltern gemacht. Der einzige wirkliche Trick war, dass Sie am Ende der Schnorchel einen kleinen gerollten Flansch machen mussten, um die Schläuche an zu halten - sonst springen sie ab.
Die Röhren, Kupplungen, Lufthörner und Bildschirme sind alle Spectre-Teile. Sie müssen den größten Teil der Mitte des Scheinwerfereimers ausschneiden und, glaube ich, die Montageplatte ein wenig modifizieren, damit der Schlauch durchkommt. Die Fahrerseite wird schwierig, wenn der Akku noch vorhanden ist.
Spectre verkauft ein komplettes Kit mit einem hohen Chromreiniger. Ich habe tatsächlich einen von denen, die ich verkaufen muss - ich habe den Luftfilter, den Filter, zwei Schläuche und Klammern übrig. Ich habe dieses Kit vorübergehend verwendet, bis ich diesen Luftfilter fertiggestellt habe, und dann die Hörner und Bildschirme aus diesem Kit und kleinere Schläuche verwendet. Ich denke, ihr Kit verwendet 4 "Schläuche, aber ich ging mit 3" Schläuchen, um den Standard Schnorchel ein bisschen besser zu passen.
Das Außenlicht sollte bereits so funktionieren, wie Sie es möchten. Wenn dies nicht der Fall ist, ist der Fernlichtteil dieser Glühbirne wahrscheinlich durchgebrannt.
Die Standardverkabelung versorgt entweder den Abblendlichtkreis oder den Fernlichtkreis. Fernlicht geht zu beiden Lampensätzen. Sie erhalten also Licht und es befindet sich an einer anderen Stelle in der Glühbirne, sodass das Licht weiter außen fokussiert wird, aber Sie erhalten nicht MEHR Licht. Ich habe dieses Auto komplett neu verkabelt, also habe ich nur die Lichtsteuerung geändert, sodass beim Einschalten des Scheinwerfers immer das Abblendlicht eingeschaltet und der Bodenschalter gedrückt wird. ADD das Fernlicht. Es gelten auch alle üblichen Dinge mit Umrüstlampengehäusen oder Lampen und Relais mit höherer Leistung. [/ QUOTE]
Okay...my English is not the best so i m not sure if i understand you correct but i will do my best. My light (low and high beam) works like it should!
I have the battery in the trunk and i m in process to re wiring the lights with relais to get brighter results. Later i wana put the coold air unduction like you in the high beam position.
So in your case - you loose your high beam... Is this correct?
I have a ’67 with a 455 in it and I have a cold air setup that looks like STLCRZY’s photos above except I used the RamAir 14x4 Box. My uncoated headers were throwing all sorts of heat under the hood and making the carb inconsistent. I got good results by setting the intake hose inlets into the open area behind the headlights, without any changes to the headlights or headlight buckets.
At least on my ‘67, there are many unsealed areas around the lights and ambient air is rushing in under all conditions except a stop or slow moving traffic. IMO you will get 95% of the benefit of OAI just dropping the ducts in there without cutting up your ’65. Olds may have done a better job in later models of sealing those areas up but on my ’67, and likely same on your ’65, those two front corners are blowing a gale right past the lights when you are underway.
When I was looking at doing it this way I learned that the “ram air” effect of real scoops around the lights or below the bumper is negligible for street driving. The benefit is all about lower inlet air temps, not the slight increase in air pressure you get with the forward facing scoops.
I tested temps to verify before and after OAI benefits with the behind the lights hose inlets. I got one of those BBQ smoker thermostats (Weber iGrill 4 probe) for a gift and used it under the hood to measure air temps all over the place. The sender is battery powered and magnetic so you can leave it under the hood while you drive around. It connects via Bluetooth to plot temp curves for the probes on your smartphone. Works great for BBQ too.
What I learned was that temperatures inside the air cleaner above the carb could be lowered between 30 and 55 degrees with OAI vs open element. In order to get some benefit at stop or slow traffic, I used 1/8” thick neoprene sheet stock to form an air box behind the headlights at each corner. That way I was never pulling underhood air into the ducts. Here are the results of the temperature testing.
There was a noticeable improvement in overall performance but the primary drive-ability benefit was to stop boiling off fuel in the carb and messing up idle and low speed cruise. I could see my AFR go lean with the colder air and I had to upsize primary jetting and reset the APT and idle screws on the QJet.
I have a ’67 with a 455 in it and I have a cold air setup that looks like STLCRZY’s photos above except I used the RamAir 14x4 Box. My uncoated headers were throwing all sorts of heat under the hood and making the carb inconsistent. I got good results by setting the intake hose inlets into the open area behind the headlights, without any changes to the headlights or headlight buckets.
At least on my ‘67, there are many unsealed areas around the lights and ambient air is rushing in under all conditions except a stop or slow moving traffic. IMO you will get 95% of the benefit of OAI just dropping the ducts in there without cutting up your ’65. Olds may have done a better job in later models of sealing those areas up but on my ’67, and likely same on your ’65, those two front corners are blowing a gale right past the lights when you are underway.
When I was looking at doing it this way I learned that the “ram air” effect of real scoops around the lights or below the bumper is negligible for street driving. The benefit is all about lower inlet air temps, not the slight increase in air pressure you get with the forward facing scoops.
I tested temps to verify before and after OAI benefits with the behind the lights hose inlets. I got one of those BBQ smoker thermostats (Weber iGrill 4 probe) for a gift and used it under the hood to measure air temps all over the place. The sender is battery powered and magnetic so you can leave it under the hood while you drive around. It connects via Bluetooth to plot temp curves for the probes on your smartphone. Works great for BBQ too.
What I learned was that temperatures inside the air cleaner above the carb could be lowered between 30 and 55 degrees with OAI vs open element. In order to get some benefit at stop or slow traffic, I used 1/8” thick neoprene sheet stock to form an air box behind the headlights at each corner. That way I was never pulling underhood air into the ducts. Here are the results of the temperature testing.
There was a noticeable improvement in overall performance but the primary drive-ability benefit was to stop boiling off fuel in the carb and messing up idle and low speed cruise. I could see my AFR go lean with the colder air and I had to upsize primary jetting and reset the APT and idle screws on the QJet.
Ich habe den Luftfilter selbst aus zwei guten Luftfiltern gemacht. Der einzige wirkliche Trick war, dass Sie am Ende der Schnorchel einen kleinen gerollten Flansch machen mussten, um die Schläuche an zu halten - sonst springen sie ab.
Die Röhren, Kupplungen, Lufthörner und Bildschirme sind alle Spectre-Teile. Sie müssen den größten Teil der Mitte des Scheinwerfereimers ausschneiden und, glaube ich, die Montageplatte ein wenig modifizieren, damit der Schlauch durchkommt. Die Fahrerseite wird schwierig, wenn der Akku noch vorhanden ist.
Spectre verkauft ein komplettes Kit mit einem hohen Chromreiniger. Ich habe tatsächlich einen von denen, die ich verkaufen muss - ich habe den Luftfilter, den Filter, zwei Schläuche und Klammern übrig. Ich habe dieses Kit vorübergehend verwendet, bis ich diesen Luftfilter fertiggestellt habe, und dann die Hörner und Bildschirme aus diesem Kit und kleinere Schläuche verwendet. Ich denke, ihr Kit verwendet 4 "Schläuche, aber ich ging mit 3" Schläuchen, um den Standard Schnorchel ein bisschen besser zu passen.
Das Außenlicht sollte bereits so funktionieren, wie Sie es möchten. Wenn dies nicht der Fall ist, ist der Fernlichtteil dieser Glühbirne wahrscheinlich durchgebrannt.
Die Standardverkabelung versorgt entweder den Abblendlichtkreis oder den Fernlichtkreis. Fernlicht geht zu beiden Lampensätzen. Sie erhalten also Licht und es befindet sich an einer anderen Stelle in der Glühbirne, sodass das Licht weiter außen fokussiert wird, aber Sie erhalten nicht MEHR Licht. Ich habe dieses Auto komplett neu verkabelt, also habe ich nur die Lichtsteuerung geändert, sodass beim Einschalten des Scheinwerfers immer das Abblendlicht eingeschaltet und der Bodenschalter gedrückt wird. ADD das Fernlicht. Es gelten auch alle üblichen Dinge mit Umrüstlampengehäusen oder Lampen und Relais mit höherer Leistung. [/ QUOTE]
Okay...my English is not the best so i m not sure if i understand you correct but i will do my best. My light (low and high beam) works like it should!
I have the battery in the trunk and i m in process to re wiring the lights with relais to get brighter results. Later i wana put the coold air unduction like you in the high beam position.
So in your case - you loose your high beam... Is this correct?
So to install these spectre headlight funnes some cutting are required.
Wanna want to know if you ever can reinstall the funnels and can back to the high beams if ever wanted.?
STLCRZY Your English is much better than my German. It took me a minute to figure out that you quoted a German translation of my post.
I did not do any cutting at all on my 1967. I retained both the high and low beams as they were originally set up. I did not use any funnel on the end of the 4 inch diameter ducts. All I did was loosely position the inlet end of the duct a few inches behind the headlights in the engine compartment inside a small airbox made of flexible neoprene sheet. The inlet end of the hose is held in place only by the interference fit with a cutout in the neoprene sheet. I could return to original stock setup just by removing the neoprene and the ductwork and going back to an open element or stock air cleaner housing.
As I said in my post, the front sheet metal on my 1967 is very porous to airflow on either side of the radiator and you really don't need to cut sheet metal or remove lights to get plenty of good outside ambient air. From what I have seen it looks like 1964 to at least 1968 will be very leaky as well but I did not do any testing on other years so they may have sealed them up better. The photos of Oddball's car (1971?) shows at least visually Olds designers tightened things up by packing the lights into a smaller area with the turn signals moved down to a bumper cutout.
Before you go cutting anything up just do a few simple tests to see how much air gets through that area on your 1965. Especially if you have the battery out, you could set a small desk fan blasting air forward inside the engine compartment behind the headlights with the hood closed and see how much gets through the lights and buckets. You might be surprised how leaky it all is.
By the way, I can confirm that the headlight relays are a great upgrade. Your lights will brighten up and you take significant electrical current off the 50 year old dash switches.
I am in the process of moving the battery to the trunk in my 66 and running the ducting to boxes I made for behind the headlights with an air filter in each box. Also building ducts to run from the holes in the bumper to the boxes so I retain both headlights on each side that I have hooked up through relays and H4 bulbs to run both high and low beams in all four bulbs. I will have some photos to add in the next couple of days as I will be working on it this weekend.
December 30th, 2020, 01:38 AM
