Looking to see what the required battery is for a 67 Cutlass Supreme 330 H.C 4Brl with A/C is.
Service manual has it as a 61 amp hr / 2900 watts required (pg 12-10)
What are your thoughts

 

I bought a group 24F, 750cca, Everstart battery from Walmart in 2015. The previous battery lasted 9 years.

 

My thought is that you answered your own question

 

Yes the numbers are there, but converting them to useable data is tuff, Iget the 750 CCA, but group 24F? Physical size?

 

Battery specs
EverStart Maxx Lead Acid Automotive Battery, Group Size 24F - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

 

OK, went to the sight and got the measurements.How did we come up with the 750 for CCA’s?

 

It was the largest battery to physically fit in the tray.

 

The original battery was a Delco R59, which is a Group 24 case. Dimensions for a Group 24 are 10.25 L x 6.8125 W x 8.875 H. Note that R59 crosses to a Group 24, not a Group 24F.
I would just get the highest CCA Group 24 that I could afford.

 

The only difference between the 24 and the 24f is the polarity.

 

Correct, which can prevent the battery cables from reaching.

 

DAMMIT, Norm, I'M supposed to be the curmudgeon here.

 

I'm using a eco34 from O'Reilly's. It's the cheapest battery they offer and only rated 600CCA. I have a high comp 403 and a RobMC ministarter. No issues cranking, but I'm in Texas.

 

Speaking of the ole go around Figure this
Purchased a Powerstop 3655 starter, and figured lets do some research and ensure the battery and cables can handle the new starter.
The fella at powerstop was saying I need at least 4 gauge wires (battery pos and neg cables) and the wire down to the starter too he was really taken aback and said that I would melt the harness using the 6 gauge. Previously bought brand new wiring for the whole engine compartment. Called them up and factory specs call for 6 gauge (that’s what’s waiting in the basement to go on). Went on a few auto parts websights and the cables they sell are all 4 gauge.
What the “Blank”. Thinking of just buying a reman at the local joint and see what happens? Really don’t want to cut into a brand new harness, but need to be safe.
Thoughts

 

I'm assuming you mean Powermaster 3655. The stock wiring is fine for this starter. Note if you do want to change it, the length of wire that needs to be changed is the cable that runs from the horn relay power stud to the starter lug, the purple wire is does not need changed. The other issue your going to have is that there is no R terminal on the solenoid for the resistance bypass wire that runs to the coil+.

 

Thanks for the feedback old cutlass, help me out here. I have the replacement wires from the horn relay to starter in front of me. Balck 6 gauge, purple 10 or 12 gauge and yellow with black stipe 16 gauge (all or about gauge thickness guesses). Not familiar with this resistance bypass wire you had mentioned? And are you saying that the 3655 starter won’t plug and play?

 

 

Yes the 3655 starter is not plug and play. Read the instructions provided by nicks1966 for your starter in the post below. Note, the yellow/black stripe wire is the resistance bypass wire. There are other ways of doing this besides the diode.