When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have an automatic 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible with a 455 and Hooker Comp headers. Right now I have an aftermarket Taylor braided battery cable that is ran along the inner fender and between the tubes of the headers with no garolite battery cable tube. I plan to have M&H make me a factory looking cable in whatever length I need and I would like to add the battery tube if possible. I haven’t had a chance to look at my car yet but I wanted to see what others are doing. I would prefer to keep it on the inner fender instead of the valve cover like the manual cars had, it just looks cleaner. What is everybody else with headers doing? Should I just run it all the way to the firewall and then back down to the starter? Would I be able to use or even need the battery cable tube? Any ideas on how long it would need to be? Anybody have pictures of what they did? Thanks in advance.
If your not looking for purity, I prefer the cable to go through a tube at the rear of the engine from the firewall.
My car is definitely not for the purist. I would like it to look clean and maybe original to the untrained eye. Would you use the 4 speed tube in the factory location for that? Any idea how long the cable would need to be?
I have mine ran inside the fender, to a Ford solenoid mounted to the firewall near the brake booster, the cable from the solenoid held to the firewall with insulated clamps, thru a starter tube to the starter. I like the Ford solenoid because even if the battery cable does get on the headers, the cable isn’t powered unless the engine is cranking.
I have mine ran inside the fender, to a Ford solenoid mounted to the firewall near the brake booster, the cable from the solenoid held to the firewall with insulated clamps, thru a starter tube to the starter. I like the Ford solenoid because even if the battery cable does get on the headers, the cable isn’t powered unless the engine is cranking.
Basically what I have. I also power my HEI off the battery cable feed to the solenoid through a 30A relay triggered of the stock wiring.
Just wanted to close this thread out. I ended up using the manual transmission setup to get the most clearance from the headers. I used the battery tube for 4 speed cars that mounts to the back of the head and routed my new cable over the valve cover. I think it looks good and I have zero interference with the headers.
