67 cutlass Alternator vs Regulator
#1
67 cutlass Alternator vs Regulator
I am rebuilding my 67 C/S 330, 4 barrel, After searching my garage the only thing I have found was the original voltage regulator- (Lost / thrown away years ago is the Alternator). Can't determine the capacity if you will of the regulator so then I can get every ones advice on amps for the alternator. As always any and all advice is good
later Brian
later Brian
#3
Eric's suggestion is a good one.
I will add that the original alternator was probably 32A. If you have any additional modern equipment at all, you will likely need a higher output unit anyway.
- Eric
I will add that the original alternator was probably 32A. If you have any additional modern equipment at all, you will likely need a higher output unit anyway.
- Eric
#4
Oops! I didn't read that Eric mentioned a solid state voltage regulator.
Anyways, I think you should make the jump and go solid state all the way and get a one-wire alternator. Here's the one I have on my 71 98. It works great and the price is actually comparable to what it would cost at an auto parts store:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...10120/10002/-1
Anyways, I think you should make the jump and go solid state all the way and get a one-wire alternator. Here's the one I have on my 71 98. It works great and the price is actually comparable to what it would cost at an auto parts store:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...10120/10002/-1
Last edited by Olds64; May 11th, 2017 at 08:07 AM. Reason: Oops!
#5
From memory, in 1967, they were 37 amps for all cars, except the air conditioned cars, which got a 42 amp alternator. Usually, you can find the original part number in the FSM in the electrical specifications page. Once you have the correct part number, enter that into the eBay search engine, and see what comes up. Don't forget to check completed auctions, for one that didn't sell, nor were they relisted.
#6
From memory, in 1967, they were 37 amps for all cars, except the air conditioned cars, which got a 42 amp alternator. Usually, you can find the original part number in the FSM in the electrical specifications page. Once you have the correct part number, enter that into the eBay search engine, and see what comes up. Don't forget to check completed auctions, for one that didn't sell, nor were they relisted.
#7
then a 55 amp alt (I have A/C), what should the Voltage regulator be rated for?
I would like to keep everything stock in the beginning since I will be putting all new wiring harnesses in, (looking/hoping) for the least problems on the initial start up
thanks Brian
I would like to keep everything stock in the beginning since I will be putting all new wiring harnesses in, (looking/hoping) for the least problems on the initial start up
thanks Brian
#8
Again, get a solid state VR. The one I suggested above (VR715) is a proven plug and play unit using your original connector that will eliminate the headlight dimming issues and erratic charging of the old mechanical ones. You can also swap the cover off your original one to give your the stock look.
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