does anyone know what on the horn ring or elsewhere, cancels the turn signal? this is our 1967 cutlass. so, in other words, when you turn the signal on, turn the wheel, what internally turns it off. thanx.

 

I think they call it a cancelling cam. You may check with Larry, lemonoldsnut,
he may have those parts.

 

thanx!! I may not need the part, not sure since I am not sure what it looks like. maybe he has a picture of it.

 

I just got done rebuilding a 66 Chevelle column and can't remember the insides of mine. Here is a blow up of it. The cancelling cam is part of the horn contact.

 

Does it still cancel for one side and not the other or are both sides (LH & RH) affected? I very seldom have seen a cancelling cam go bad... Most often a tab on the turn signal switch itself will break off... Over time the plastic tabs becomes brittle and eventually just snap off...

 

Thnx!!!!!! the top photo looks most like ours. I thought the cancelling cam is a part of the horn ring..it has two ***** on the left side that I thought might be it. I recall the horn ring part with the wires coming thru being clocked to about 11 o'clock. also, the top photo (ours has the three removable center parts of the spokes with the left and right being the horn as in the photo and no tilt) it looks like in the photo the tension spring goes on after the horn ring goes on, but that doesn't make sense to me as it would be hard for the pin with the wires going thru would be really hard to put into the back of the stock steering wheel, plus when I took mine apart the horn ring came out with the steering wheel and left the spring on the shaft. I will have to look, but I think that the spring will fit inside the horn ring, but does actually pass thru it. otherwise, the horn ring would sit on top of the tension spring.

what is happening is, I have put on an aftermarket Grant steering wheel as the wires to the horn ring from the horn push bars were very brittle and cracked and a new one is really expensive. to I put it together with the horn kit provided with the wheel and the instructions say to use the stock horn ring which I did, so in order:

the new turn signal switch
then the tension spring
then the horn ring attached or put into the steering wheel adapter
then the cosmetic cover
then the steering wheel
then the contact for the horn
then the spring for the center button
then the center button.

turn signal does not cancel and horn doesn't work.

 

neither one cancels. the turn signal switch is new and activates the turn signals fine, but won't won't turn off in either direction by rotating the wheel.

again, I see two ***** on the left side of the horn ring, in the center, that I thought might be the canceling cam, but not sure.

the turn signal switch itself has been giving me problems as well, even though new...the emergency flasher switch activates fine by pushing in the button, but you can't pull it out to shut it off. from inside the column, I can push the small tab on the side of the flasher mechanism with just slight pressure and it shuts off easily. so nothing is obstructing it that I can see anywhere on the column from releasing when it is pushed in, but it is impossible to pull the **** out to get it to turn off. from the inside of the column, piece of cake to shut it off. weird.

 

The only thing I can suggest is double check the way you have everything installed. Something is wrong.

 

Not sure what you call the "tension spring" but if you are referring to the compression spring that is shown in the diagram above, note that for a non-tilt column the spring goes ABOVE the cancel cam, not below it. If the cam is too high up, it will not make contact with either the horn contact or the cancel springs on the turn signal switch.

I also don't understand what you mean by "then the horn ring attached or put into the steering wheel adapter". This also sounds like the cancel cam isn't seated all the way into the column.

 

that could be it!!! thanx!!!! I didn't think the spring would go above the cancel cam as it makes it really hard to get the pin on the cam into the back of the adapter in my case or in the back of the oem steering wheel if using it again. yes, I am calling the compression spring the tension spring, sorry, didn't know what to call it but now I do!!! very helpful, thanks again!!!

in this listing is the Grant steering wheel adapter kit I ma referring to. in the picture, the bottom right is the adapter which is the part that has the knurling to go on the shaft; above that is the horn ring that sits on top of the steering wheel, then the cover plate that goes over the adapter and cancel cam which mounts behind the adapter; then comes the spring on top of the wheel and finally the horn button (not shown) presses onto the horn ring provided.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grant-3162-3...JU8Mgf&vxp=mtr

oh, I was calling the cancel cam, the horn ring since it was directly attached to the back of the steering wheel on the oem wheel when I took it off and has the wires going to the oem horn buttons on the oem steering wheel. again, helps to have the right terminology so you know what i am referring to. I am surprised the spring goes on top since, if I recall correctly as soon as the wheel popped loose, the cancel cam was basically stuck in the back of the steering wheel due to the locating pin with the horn wires going thru it being stuck in the back of the wheel. also, the wires are so short, I wouldn't think that the spring being on top would allow it to reach the wheel.

 

you're right, I am going to pull it all apart and look at it again and try to see if I can do as Joe says and the drawing says and put the cancel cam on the steering shaft, then the spring, then the Grant adapter and see what happens. thanks for the input everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Also there is a left spring and a right spring...one is wound opposite to the other...one turn each.

 

???

Are you talking about the cancel springs that are part of the turn signal switch? Those are unrelated to the spring that the OP has in the wrong place. Look at the diagram above. We're talking about the spring that goes above the cancel cam, over the solid steering shaft (for a non-tilt column) or under the cancel cam (for a tilt column).

 

OK. He posted that it wouldn't cancel. Soooo

 

took everything apart and in my stupidity, broke the cancel cam with it being in the wrong place.
sent Larry a pm to see if he has one. doesn't have to be complete as far as the wires being good since I am using an aftermarket wheel. upset with myself right now!!!!!!!!!!

 

I feel for ya... The 66 column we were piecing together with an aftermarket fake wood wheel required the adaptor ring to be cut down 1/4 inch because every time I tightened the nut the steering would bind. The steering wheel hub had 2 holes in the back that the cancelling cam can go in, one of them is wrong. Moved the cam to the correct hole and then I had to make spacers to move the horn parts around because it would go off intermittently when the wheel was turned. Then the new pos turn switch was shorting to the turn lever when it was screwed in place blowing the brake fuse when the pedal was depressed. It took my 2 solid days to make it work.

 

Thanx!!! I already had to redrill the steering wheel as the way it was set up for the cancel cam to fit into the hole provided by the adapter, it clocked the wheel to 3 o'clock (three spoke wheel). drilled all new mounting holes and that part at least worked, but made my mistake on the cancel cam order of placement. I heard something, but thought it was the adapter seating on the knurling...wrong!!!!!!!!!!

 

Make sure the steering has the same turns from center to right and left.

 

Will do!!! thanx!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Right, but he also posted that the horn didn't work after reassembly. Putting the compression spring under the cancel cam would account for both symptoms, since it would hold the cancel cam up out of the turn signal switch. Not only would the cams not engage the cancel springs, but the horn contact ring wouldn't reach the contact button in the switch either.

 

The wheel adapter SHOULD be clocked correctly. If it isn't, either something isn't assembled correctly or the steering linkage isn't centered. I used one of these adapters on my 62 and had no such clocking issues.

 

I will get back with you today on parts i am sure I have it as I have two or three columns that have not had the wheel pulled. Yesterday I was too busy to get to it.

Larry

 

Joe, everything you said makes perfect sense. my mistake was thinking that the cancel cam came out with the wheel and thus, was on top of the spring.

as to the clocking, the adapter is fine in the correct position, it was the location of the mounting holes on the steering wheel that didn't line up.

 

Your saying that when mounted that the steering wheel was not clocked straight before you modified it? If so, that's a function of alignment and can be corrected.

 

true, but the alignment was not far off as to the suspension, but the Grant wheel, using their holes for the steering wheel, coupled with the hole for the horn pin/cancel cam; put the wheel clocked at 3 o'clock...way off, easier for me to just redrill it.

thanx for the input everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

wound up ordering a new cancel cam from OPGI. waiting for it to arrive.

 

got the cancel cam in the mail. had to do some slight modifying to make it work (horn part). couldn't adjust the adapter at all since the cam cancel has to be clocked in a certain position and the hole for the pin for the horn only fits into the adapter in one place. got everything in and working except the emergency flashers. this new turn signal switch I think has a bad emergency flasher mechanism inside as you still cannot pull it out once pushed in. not going to worry about that right now. need to get the car on the road and other fish to fry.....

thanx to everyone that provided all the information. you were a help and I appreciate it very much!

 

Is the shaft of the flasher switch binding on the steering column collar?

 

no, what is weird is that with the wheel off, if I push the flasher in, I cannot pull it out with the ****, but, I can release it by pushing on the little tab inside the column that is part of the flasher. it takes little effort to push on the tab and it pops right out. if something was binding to the column, it wouldn't release so easily from the inside.