Installed a new repro rallye fuel gauge pod in my '72 CS and the brake warning lamp won't go out with the car running. It flickers a slight bit when I move the emergency brake pedal a bit (not enough to engage it) but it won't go out. No underlying brake fluid or pressure issues, the factory pod it replaces didn't have this lamp issue.

I followed the factory diagram to rewire the pod connector for it and everything else works properly in all other respects.

Is is possible the gauge has a ground or lamp socket issue - OR could it really be signaling a brake issue that didn't trigger the factory pod?

 

Only two sources of "triggering" the brake light: E-brake pedal depressed and differential brake pressure switch. Disconnect one or the other to find the source of intermittency. If both are disconnected and you still have an intermittent light, then it has to be in the wiring to the gauge pod or in the gauge pod (something on the BRAKE lamp's return side shorting to ground).

 

I believe the brake warning circuit is also run to the ignition switch. When you rotate the ignition key there is a position between the”Run” and “Crank” called bulb test, it does exactly what the name suggests. It’s used to provide an easy way to test the TEMP warning lamp.

Id suggest pulling up on the parking brake pedal, or just temporarily unplugging the parking brake warning switch. If the light stops flickering, then the problem is with the parking brake. That would help narrow the potential problem areas

 

Solved - I checked the e-brake switch first since the lamp flickered a bit when I moved the pedal - turns out the wire connector came loose and ultimately disconnected - once back in place all is well.

Simple is good.