How do you do it? I mean- I do it lots of ways, none are fun, easy, or highly effective- that's why I'm asking.

Those automotive plugs in the plastic shrouds- when the metal blades get black or green and the contacts are sketchy at best- how do you clean them? I've taken them apart, but often I damage them. I've tried baking soda but that makes a mess and doesn't always do the job for me. I can't get in there with a piece of sand paper. Cut them out and replace them? That'll work if I can get the right shape... So I'm asking the question...

 

Depending on the amount of corrosion/oxidation & the type of connector. Worst case I purchase a new connector, pigtail, etc.. Mildest case(s) I like CRC brand. I've often removed the blades and wire brushed &/or sanded them - again, depending on connector type and amount of corrosion/oxidation.

 

The absolute best way is to depin the connectors and clean the terminals individually with fine (400-600) sand paper or Scorchbrite. Brakleen will break down dried dielectric grease. Make sure to treat the cleaned metal with WD 40 or fresh dielectric to ward off moisture.
Also, lanolin or citrus base hand cleaner does wonders on old insulation.

 

I clean my connectors by de-pinning the terminals and soaking them in lemon juice (brass and copper terminals). It works incredibly well. Be sure to rinse off well after, or the juice will leave a residue behind. I use laquer thinner, and spray the connectors with WD-40 when I am done. For steel connectors use something like metal rescue or evaporust. Here's a shot of a finished fuse box after I removed all of the connectors, cleaned them, and re-pinned them.

 

Although it says on the bottle not to use for electrical connections, I've had success with CLR. The lemon juice idea is great, thanks for sharing that.

 

To clean the flat lugs (male and female), for many years I have used a set of small files. I picked up this set for about $2 in the markdown bin at a drugstore probably 25 years ago, and I go back to them all the time. In particular, the flat one at the far left is pretty much perfect for fitting into those plastic shrouded flat lugs and rubbing it back and forth to clean the corrosion.

 

Those can be called jewelers files
I use them for the exact same thing.

 

In addition to using this, I use acid swabbing brushes and cut the bristles down to about a 1/4" to 1/8" to make a stiff cleaning brush.

 

Thanks! I would have never thought of that. Here's a set on Amazon for all of $17. A little fancier than mine. These have actual handles, and a nifty carrying case.

 

Good suggestion. I do same. I have a full bag of those acid swabbing brushes.

 

All the electrical diagnostic car repair people use aerosol DeoxIT D5. Not cheap.

 

I don't like lubricant in my cleaners.

 

^^^THIS^^^

I'll use Simple Green and an old toothbrush first. Then I'll go to the CRC if the corrosion is excessive. Make sure you use WD40 or Fluid Film after cleaning the connector.

 

This is great, thank you all for your suggestions. I actually have a few very small files, and the acid swapping brushes look like the little brushes I use to spread flux paste on copper pipe before I solder a connection. CRC seems to be a popular item too. Maybe now I can get my parking lights and turn signals to all work all of the time.

 

Good for you to address electrical. One of the lowest items on many classic car owners list of priorities; yet, one of the most significant. Beneficial to remove & thoroughly clean your ground (-) terminals to block, radiator post & firewall, as well. Resistance is futile!

 

My typical go to terminal cleaners. Not pictured is trailer hitch/bulb socket cleaning kit. The ones I have come on a keyring but I never can find them. Mine probably came from one of the tool trucks.



I have a kit similar to this.



Bore brush kits can be quite handy for electrical connections as well.

 

Personally, I don't like using sandpaper to clean electrical contacts. Most contacts are plated to improve corrosion resistance, using sand paper can remove this plating which can cause the contact to oxidize more quickly and lead to future failures. For packard style male terminals, I remove the terminal from the housing and use an art-gum type eraser to rub off the oxidized haze. I followup with a contact cleaner like DeOxit. For the female terminals, sometime sI can rub the eraser hard enough to reach the center "tang". A short soak in lemon juice or 5% vinegar will remove the oxidation that cant be reached with the eraser, just dont leave them soaking overnight as the acid can strip the plating as well. Just my experiences, hope this is helpful.

Rodney

 

Anyone ever just soak the fuse box in evapo rust overnight to clean all the terminals? Is there a reason I shouldn’t do that? Thanks