Hi all, sorry to ask such a basic question but I've looked for solutions before posting. I'm trying to disconnect the pigtail for the passenger-side parking lamp in my '69 Cutlass S convertible. I'm familiar with locking tabs, and have been able to disconnect other connectors in the car. Every video I've watched so far addresses other types of connectors, or glosses over the literal separation of the two.

Steps taken so far:

• Pushed down the tab (circled in red in the photos) with a tiny flathead screwdriver while simulaneously trying to pull the ends apart. No luck.
• Sprayed everything with WD40 contact cleaner a few things and tried again. Nope.
• Squeezed in some dielectric grease. Still no.
• Bought the connections tools seen in the picture, but not sure I'm using them the right way.

I can get the two connectors to separate slightly, but not enough to pull completely free. Maybe I'm being too precious; I just don't want to damage anything. Should I be using some other lubricant? Cut the damn thing out?

Also, can anyone recommend a site or chart that displays the different types of connectors for this era of car? There are so many different ones and I'm sure using the wrong terms. I have the chassis, body and factory assembly manuals for my '69 Cutlass but can't find that kind of information. I'm sure I'm using terms too loosely (plugs, connectors, terminals, etc.).

Thank you again!


Pigtail for right-side parking lamp. Circled in red is the lock tab. I want to remove the connector with the blue (turn signal) and brown (parking) wiring.

Another view of the tab. Is this actually 3 pieces? That is, left connector, right connector, and a separate casing?

The goop is dielectric grease. Should I just try to remove the wires and leave the plug in place?

I just bought these tools off Amazon. Any suggestions as to which of them might best work here? The keyrings with one small flat tab aren't much different than a tiny flathead screwdriver, which I already have.

 

I don't know what the actual chemical makeup of WD-40 Contact Cleaner is, but in my experience WD-40 is nothing but a "water displacement" formula. Hence "WD." At best it is a temporary rust inhibitor. Key Word being "temporary." There are much better products for cleaning, as well as lubrication.

 

No. The image consists of two connectors - one connector slides into the other connector - there is no separate casing.

 

Other websites/suppliers exist. The connectors are termed Packard 56.
Here is one such site:
https://www.delcity.net/search/?sear...56&x=0&y=0&it=

 

GENTLY pry the loop above the tang while pulling the 2 pieces apart. They can be tight, and they can be brittle.
FYI, they are Packard 56 style connectors and are readily available should you mangle a housing.

 

I type too slow 😀

 

🤣😉👍

 

You might try PB Blaster or Kroil and a brass brush on the connector before trying to pull it apart. I think a steel brush would be too coarse. If worst comes to worst and you damage the connector pulling it apart you can always replace it.

 

You don't "push down" the tab, you lift the loop that goes around it. I've found that these connectors frequently stick after half a century of being mated, so I usually have to jam a screwdriver under the loop and then use a second screwdriver stuck in the mating plane to lever the two apart. And for future reference, don't use petroleum-based lubes on plastic parts as this can cause the plastic to deteriorate over time. Use only silicone lube.

 

Simple demonstration of how Packard 56 connectors operate - including the terminals.

 

I don't know what the actual chemical makeup of WD-40 Contact Cleaner is, but in my experience WD-40 is nothing but a "water displacement" formula. Hence "WD." At best it is a temporary rust inhibitor. Key Word being "temporary." There are much better products for cleaning, as well as lubrication.

Just to clarify, WD-40 makes a number of products. I've been using WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner, which dries quickly and is specifically for electrical parts. I also have WD-40 Specialist Silicone (not using that here, but it was recommended by a locksmith for locks, etc.). That said, I'm open to other recommended products. I know that "classic" WD-40 is not for all lubrication purposes, but to be honest I didn't know that when I bought my car. Now, I've got white lithium grease, etc.

 

Hey everybody,

Thank you so much for all of this information! It's exactly what I needed. Packard 56 connectors...to me that's a perfect example of "how do you know that unless someone tells you?" Also that they're common and replaceable if I break one. I'm still learning my way through, "I can break this and replace it today at O'Reilly" and "if I break this I will be lucky to get it on backorder months from now, if at all."

I haven't had a chance to take a crack at that connector again, but I'm confident that I'll get it this time.

Happy Thanksgiving to all of you.

 

With all the great info shared here, I separated the connectors in just a few minutes and didn't even break anything. Take that, Packard 56.

Thank you! Happy Thanksgiving, everyone.

 

WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner contains hexane, heptane, isoparaffinic hydrocarbon, and 2,2,4 tri-methyl pentane. WD-40 Specialist Silicone contains petroleum solvent, propane, and n-butane. Those are all hydrocarbons--not good for plastic contact.

When you want an all-purpose silicone for use around rubber and plastic, you can use a food-grade silicone spray in a pump bottle. AMSOIL makes non-food-grade, petroleum-free dry silicone in an aerosol can. Shin-Etsu (Tokyo) makes superb petroleum-free silicone paste in a squeeze tube.

The WD products contain non-synthetic oils, which oxidize and deteriorate over time--reducing protection. I've used AMSOIL MP spray, which contains synthetic oils.

Here's an example of its durability...
50 years ago I bought and stored an Olds W-30 engine from a wrecked car. I sprayed AMSOIL MP in the intake and exhaust ports and in the cylinders. When I sold the engine a few years ago, I saw there were two areas in exhaust ports where I missed with the MP. There was rust growing like fur in those areas, the other areas were still bare iron.

White lithium grease becomes a useless white solid after a few years. For long-term lubrication use a synthetic grease. I use AMSOIL spray grease and, in my grease gun, AMSOIL multi-purpose grease.

AMSOIL Products were the first synthetics, made near where I lived, and I've used them since the beginning. Today, there are many manufacturers of these synthetic greases and oils. Just read the labels before you buy to make sure you are getting what you want.

 

X2 for Amsoil. I use their products a lot, especially their Z Rod oil in all my flat tappet motors.

 

Winner, winner, turkey dinner!