Jandk

Hi everybody

Since my engine have been out for rebuild, I have had my wiring disconnected, and carefully hanging over the fender. Now its all back together, and only new thing is the alternator.

I need some guidens please.. my voltage regulator clicks when connecting then battery!!! I believe that should only happen AFTER the ignition key have been turned over.
My brakelight also goes on when connecting the battery, but this is with the brakeswitch hanging i the wires, and the light goes off with either the fuse removed or brakeswitch activated.
I have narrowed it down to only thing connected to the battery is the thick red wire connected to several thin red wires (feed to fuse box I guess)


Could this be caused by the alternator???? I have not touched anything ells but connected a electric choke via a fuse and the oilpressure switch method.

Unfortunently I havent got a usefull electrical diagram, but are ordering tonight, and in the meantime maybe you have some guidelines???

Fun71

The brakes should come on when the pedal is depressed, even with the key in the off position.

I am not sure about the voltage regulator. Would have to check the wiring diagram.

Jandk

And as you most likely already have spottet, the car in question is a ‘64 / 98

oldcutlass

Here is the wiring diagram:




Unplug the choke addition and see if the regulator opens, if not then disconnect the RF plug.

RetroRanger

i bought an installed one of the recommended pressure switches for the e choke....next day battery was dead, turns out the switch was either faulty or incorrect either way it was on all the time not just when i had oil pressure. I got a different brand OP switch and had no problems...i dont recall the brands or PNs off the top of my head.

in short like oldcutlass said take a look at the oil pressure switch

Jandk

Your pictures of the diagram is waaaaaaay better than my reproduction!!!!
I have trouble decoding the short RF...

The oil pressureswitch and choke has been disconnected more or less all the time, and still is.

Jandk

I found the old alternator. My plan was to replace it as it is very ugly, and makes a very bad bearing noise.
Plugged the old alternator instead of the new one... no clicking at all!!!
Is this so simple that the old alternator is defective??


It is brand new from RockAuto
It is a DN10 from a ‘72 / 98 as Inhave read somewhere here was and upgrade compared to the OE alternator.

What is the best way to fix this.. bare in mind I am from europe, and it is not an option to return this alternator to RockAuto, it is simpley waaay to expensive.

oldcutlass

The bearings in the new alternator may be the same size as the old one, simply swap bearings and problem is solved.

Jandk

Ha yes, that was a solution ;0) that does not solve the old and ugly part of it.

Do you know if it is correct that it is a DN10 alternator for such a car ??
If it is correct, it must be defective from factory/rebuilder.

oldcutlass

Old and ugly can be cured with a wire brush or some silver paint. Don't know about the alternator you have received, probably has a bad diode.

Jandk

Thank you Eric

Jandk

I have been having some days off doing other thing, but a little time for Oldsmobile related I did get.
Alternator was taken apart and checked 3 times, compaired to the old one, and couldt find anything wrong. Fitted the alternator this afternoon.. NO CLICK!! Tried connecting and disconnecting different cableb wires several times incl the alternator... NO CLICK, and everything works when everything is connected.. sweet, but wierd.

Thank you all for your input

oldcutlass

Make sure your getting 14.5ish volts when running measured at the battery.

Jandk

Sure, will do. Havent started it after the rebuild because I have no exhaust.

If I have no luck with a better manifold solution than stock in the nearby future, I will make some creative exhaustpipe to quiet it a little down, and make the first start attempt and run it in, and do the checks.