Individual switches operate properly. Driver front works from 4-position/master switch but it doesn’t operate the other 3.

Checked the switch and it appears to be working properly. 4 position switch connector seems ok.

I am thinking I’ll replace the relay next?

Any other tests I can try?

Appreciate any help!

 

If ANY windows work, the relay is fine. The relay provides power to the power window system. There's only one power wire, so if the driver side window works, the relay is providing power.

 

I suppose you could try the relay, but my issue was exactly same as you just described. I replaced 4-function window switch with a NOS switch and my windows are blazing fast.

 

Excellent feedback by Joe. Yep, driver window worked on mine, so power was there. The other three positions simply succumbed to 50 years of oxidation/corrosion.

 

This is from the 1971 Fisher Body Manual, but 70 is the same. It sounds like either the master switch is bad or the crossover harness is bad.

 

Here's the diagram from 1967. Same basic wiring, but easier to read.

 

BTW, you can order those door panel retaining clips online - inexpensive. I also “beefed up” with nothing more than Gorilla Tape the areas where those retaining clips fasten to the door panel hard cardboard. If you have a remote driver mirror be mindful of the cable routing there is a small hook which assists in routing (holding) remote mirror cable in place tucked up under inside the door. Finally, you may find the plastic sheet had disintegrated which covers the 4-way switch from behind to assist in keeping grime off the electrical plug-in. Use your imagination but apply a new sheet of plastic or something clever.

 

Ok, I guess a new switch it is.

Thanks!

 

You can jumper the ports in the master switch harness socket with a piece of wire. Do not do this very long. If they all work, the switch is the problem.

 

Koda, thanks, I’ll try that

 

Yep all 4 windows operate when I jumper the connector….

 

I “think” I found my NOS switch on oldsobsolete - it’s been several years.

 

I use this on any connector that is exposed to moisture.

 

Curious: From reading this thread, Norm's Post #4 would indicate that oxidation could cause slow window movement. True? I am suffering from nearly insufferably slow window UP/DOWN, but they all work.

 

Yes, by creating resistance that lowers the voltage to the motors. I have found that the most likely cause of slow windows is lack of lubrication on the guides and mechanisms. The old grease gets hard after half a century. Use silicone grease on the plastic rollers; petroleum-based greases can cause plastic to deteriorate. The second most likely cause is worn brushes in the window motors.

 

Thanks, Joe. In my restoration taking place over the past eight years I disassembled, cleaned and lubed with white lithium grease, all the window tracks. I also disassembled, cleaned and lubed the motors, including cleaning the power connectors, thinking that would help - Not much. It didn't even occur to me to check the switch connections, since they all worked. I'll do that this weekend.

 

Other than expanding a touch, exactly what Joe has already stated. Areas of oxidation &/or corrosion impede/hinder electron flow thereby increasing resistance (resistance decreases electron flow in these areas, reducing electron potential - e.g. weld points, dissimilar metals, moisture, etc.). It will take greater amperage/voltage in attempts to overcome resistance. As the resistance increases electro-mechanical devices eventually succumb to limited (slow movement) or no electron flow (complete failure).

 

I ended up replacing the switches and the harnesses. Additional to the above reasons for increasing resistance thus current/load in the motors I found that the wires had strands broken at the crimp inside the connectors. One wire broke off as I tried to clean it.

Not safe at all….

Clean & lubricate moving parts, make sure glass is adjusted well (not dragging on the vertical weather strip between front and rear), etc.

It all adds up.