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Hopefully, it should be obvious we're probing the wiring & sockets themselves to find a bad ground, etc. This does not rule out a broken, misplaced or bad wire inside the steering column but the procedure would be the same regardless. Let's test the most likely known wiring issue first by probing that yellow wire. Based on results you can then move forward elsewhere.
Hopefully you're moving along getting better acquainted using the test light. I should have provided a better (different) diagram for you to follow, as well.
NOTE (below diagram): The switch feed wire (looks white I think) comes out of the headlight switch and goes into both the LH & RH parking lamp/signal sockets (red arrows). You need power on that white wire from the switch - so, test you have power on that wire to the LH & RH sockets. I'll follow this up w/ another question.
So, you mentioned this previously. I can't visually see what you're referring to but I "think" it may be what you referred to in the following:
In front of the radiator there is a strip of wires that have two different connection spots 4 wires on each side. Some of them won’t come out due to corrosion but if sprayed them with pb blast and I’ll see if I can get them loose. The ones I did get loose I touched them to another socket and the lights worked better but not correctly. I’ll have to figure it out more
The two red circles - is that the point you might be referring to? If so, you'll most likely need to remove/separate those wires and test each individually w/ the test light to confirm. It may very well be where your issue resides. These wires (you said four of them?) may exist as a bundle in one location (might be what you're talking about) or they may exist separately. Tough determining from the wiring diagram.
Just cut those wires loose, then using appropriate electrical crimp connectors (maybe some extra wire) splice them back together correctly and cleanly. You should always use external rubber insulation jackets on wires. Be sure to use heat shrink insulation tubing. You'll most likely be tempted to use plain electrical tape, while electrical tape is fair to OK, heat shrink insulation tubing is the best method especially in any area(s) subject to lots of moisture & dust. It provides are a far better seal. You can buy it in any big box store, of course an automotive store will be more expensive. You can heat it w/ a heat gun or even a lighter works.
You can attach the alligator clip to any CLEAN piece of metal on the chassis, engine block, frame &/or firewall - including the METAL dashboard. Since they should ALL be connected to each from the battery (-) post terminal - they are ALL the ground (-) side of your car's electrical circuitry. The entire vehicle's ground path is the bare metal of the vehicle. This then, represents why you can connect the alligator clip anywhere to bar piece of metal. It occurs anywhere there is clean bare metal (assuming your negative battery post terminal has its negative battery post terminal connected to the block, chassis, frame & firewall (NOTE: the metal dashboard is "grounded" to the firewall location). The dashboard metal is a ground (-) negative source.
With the alligator clip connected to a metal (ground) source anywhere on the car, you can then use the pointed test light probe to test for 12VDC voltage on any wire of the car. You can make that test "into" (stick the pointed probe "into") any wire anywhere on the car which comes FROM (connects to) the battery positive (+) post terminal, at the "end" of the wire you're testing, on bulb socket location, radio, horn, etc. So, to recap - alligator clip attached to any metal source = the (-) negative ground circuit of your car; when you "probe" with the pointed end of the circuit test light, you probe the positive (+) side of the circuit and the test light bulb should illuminate demonstrating a circuit path between negative (-) and positive (+). This is not the ONLY pathway to evaluate, but it is the essentials of the diagnostics to find your issue. Go ahead and try it. Take any two points where a wire should have 12VDC (like the battery you already tested you know it works). Test a head light (lights ON, alligator clip connected to metal chassis, etc.) probe the headlamp wire the light should illuminate. You're going to run this test against each wire to find your issue. The 1st place is going to be your non-functional driver side wire since your driver side parking lamp/bulb does not illuminate.
ok, I understand the concept of the test light I will try it tomorrow hopefully and keep you posted on what I find.
haha gotta do the best I can with what I got which ain稚 much
I think I found my bad ground, and it痴 in those old plastic connector that snap in place in front of the radiator support. I think, but I知 gonna check more on a day that痴 not so windy
I think I found my bad ground, and it痴 in those old plastic connector that snap in place in front of the radiator support. I think, but I知 gonna check more on a day that痴 not so windy
Are these plastic connectors located in the wiring diagram in Post #43 (red circles)?
I think I found my bad ground, and it痴 in those old plastic connector that snap in place in front of the radiator support. I think, but I知 gonna check more on a day that痴 not so windy
is it ok to just remove those connectors and use but connectors to connect each of those wires as they are now?
I thought these plastic connectors were what the diagram refers to as connector. Yes I will just remove those old plastic connector because there痴 lots of corrosion inside of them. If this doesn稚 fix the issue at least I can mark it off the list
is it ok to just remove those connectors and use but connectors to connect each of those wires as they are now?
Yes. Connectors provide ease of assembly/disassembly. As I mentioned in previous post, you should use heat shrink insulation to cover those butt connectors & I see a small slice in each wire before each butt connector. I know, sounds picky, just providing you w/ best practice. At a minimum wrap those butt connectors w/ electrical tape.
Yes. Connectors provide ease of assembly/disassembly. As I mentioned in previous post, you should use heat shrink insulation to cover those butt connectors & I see a small slice in each wire before each butt connector. I know, sounds picky, just providing you w/ best practice. At a minimum wrap those butt connectors w/ electrical tape.
I don稚 have heat shrink but I値l use electrical tape at least. But let me fix these wires and see how it works
I'm "guessing" your previous pictures demonstrate the left side &/or the right side connectors? Hard to follow what I'm looking at. In any case, you have a blue wire connected to a yellow wire in one image, but the other image doesn't demonstrate a yellow wire. Someone (not surprisingly) has been into these wires before. Ensure the wires lead to their respective places via the wiring diagram.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; February 7th, 2024 at 02:45 PM.
I'm "guessing" your previous pictures demonstrate the left side &/or the right side connectors? Hard to follow what I'm looking at. In any case, you have a blue wire connected to a yellow wire in one image, but the other image doesn't demonstrate a yellow wire. Someone (not surprisingly) has been into these wires before. Ensure the wires lead to their respective places via the wiring diagram.
yes I was going to ask about that yellow wire. I don稚 know why it痴 like that. I can take all the tape off and see where it goes. I just put all the wires back together the way the were and nothing changed.
yes I was going to ask about that yellow wire. I don’t know why it’s like that. I can take all the tape off and see where it goes. I just put all the wires back together the way the were and nothing changed.
You need to troubleshoot instead of ripping wires apart and reconnecting them "...back together the way they were...". Nowhere have you provided evidence of troubleshooting w/ the circuit light tester/probe. If you put the wires back together "...the way they were..." is there anything surprising why you remain having an issue?
You need to troubleshoot instead of ripping wires apart and reconnecting them "...back together the way they were...". Nowhere have you provided evidence of troubleshooting w/ the circuit light tester/probe. If you put the wires back together "...the way they were..." is there anything surprising why you remain having an issue?
I tested using the probe 12v. I probed the sockets and any where I could find that it would get a connection. Is there some where else specific I should use the probe!?
I tested using the probe 12v. I probed the sockets and any where I could find that it would get a connection. Is there some where else specific I should use the probe!?
me knowing nothing about electrical and just checking sockets probably isn稚 going to get me far that痴 why I posted the schematic so I could get some more advice on where to check. And I meant I connected those wires the same as they were connected before except without corroded connectors
ok. I will do that, I知 sorrr it looks like I didn稚 notice quite a few posts. I get an email for one which is the last or latest post and I forgot to scroll backwards at other posts
ok. I will do that, I知 sorrr it looks like I didn稚 notice quite a few posts. I get an email for one which is the last or latest post and I forgot to scroll backwards at other posts
remember how you mentioned that yellow wire which is the only one that doesn稚 match up with other wires? Well the light that is supposed to work for my emergency brake has a yellow wire coming out of it but there is no socket but it is a yellow wire. Could that be my issue?
remember how you mentioned that yellow wire which is the only one that doesn稚 match up with other wires? Well the light that is supposed to work for my emergency brake has a yellow wire coming out of it but there is no socket but it is a yellow wire. Could that be my issue?
No idea. As soon as you begin to follow my suggestions/guidance/directions regarding troubleshooting w/ the test light we can begin to move forward. I'm not guessing any longer.
Post 42 You need power on that white wire from the switch - so, test you have power on that wire to the LH & RH sockets.
Do you have ANY questions pertinent to Post 42? Have you tested the white wire I have repeatedly asked you to test? Is there ANYTHING you have a question about regarding Post 42?
Post 42 You need power on that white wire from the switch - so, test you have power on that wire to the LH & RH sockets.
Do you have ANY questions pertinent to Post 42? Have you tested the white wire I have repeatedly asked you to test? Is there ANYTHING you have a question about regarding Post 42?
I have tested the white wire at the socket and where the old plastic connectors were. It had power. I値l check more tomorrow when it痴 day light. I don稚 have a garage like most mechanics
You should NOT have 12VDC on any switched wire which which does not call for 12VDC. IOW, in testing your lighting, you should NOT have 12VDC on any of the switched (when the light switch is pulled out to any position) positive wires when the headlamp switch is in the OFF position only when the switch is in the ON position. If you have power to any of those wires when the switch is off, you have an issue.
You should NOT have 12VDC on any switched wire which which does not call for 12VDC. IOW, in testing your lighting, you should NOT have 12VDC on any of the switched (when the light switch is pulled out to any position) positive wires when the headlamp switch is in the OFF position only when the switch is in the ON position. If you have power to any of those wires when the switch is off, you have an issue.
Chris - When the light switch is OFF there should be no 12VDC on the white wire. When the light switch is ON you should read 12VDC on the white wire. You effectively need to test this (with the light/circuit probe) for each wire along each wires entire path both in the OFF position and in the ON position (not ONLY the white wire, but any wire(s) - you're going to start with the white wire(s). This is what Eric suggested in his Post 2. If you're getting power to a wire which should NOT be getting power to that wire, then that wire is picking up ground from some other source (such as one light getting its ground from another light). If you get power where there should not be power you've found the issue. So, it's equally important to test (with the test light) each wire in both the ON & OFF positions. Remember, that test lamp will ONLY illuminate when there is one condition met - both a ground (-) source and a positive (+) source have completed the circuit. If that test light illuminates when it should NOT you have a ground problem.
You should NOT have 12VDC on any switched wire which which does not call for 12VDC. IOW, in testing your lighting, you should NOT have 12VDC on any of the switched (when the light switch is pulled out to any position) positive wires when the headlamp switch is in the OFF position only when the switch is in the ON position. If you have power to any of those wires when the switch is off, you have an issue.
sorry didn稚 mean to say 12v. I just meant the test light lit up.
sorry didn稚 mean to say 12v. I just meant the test light lit up.
That's OK. If the test light lit up then you have 12VDC. Just be methodical about this. Test each wire as I described. Each wire along it's length in both the ON & OFF position(s). If that driver side lamp/bulb is NOT illuminating then you should NOT be getting power to the bulb. You already said this. The driver side lamp/bulb does NOT illuminate is what you have said. How then can it be if the driver side lamp/bulb does NOT illuminate you are measuring 12VDC to the bulb socket. Let this sink in.
Chris - When the light switch is OFF there should be no 12VDC on the white wire. When the light switch is ON you should read 12VDC on the white wire. You effectively need to test this (with the light/circuit probe) for each wire along each wires entire path both in the OFF position and in the ON position (not ONLY the white wire, but any wire(s) - you're going to start with the white wire(s). This is what Eric suggested in his Post 2. If you're getting power to a wire which should NOT be getting power to that wire, then that wire is picking up ground from some other source (such as one light getting its ground from another light). If you get power where there should not be power you've found the issue. So, it's equally important to test (with the test light) each wire in both the ON & OFF positions. Remember, that test lamp will ONLY illuminate when there is one condition met - both a ground (-) source and a positive (+) source have completed the circuit. If that test light illuminates when it should NOT you have a ground problem.
ok I知 going to read this post again tomorrow when I start over. Just to clarify, so I知 supposed to check the white wire using the probe, from beginning to end meaning from the headlight switch to the socket? Am I supposed to poke through the insulation on the wire or does it read thru that? I知 horrible with electrical but I知 trying to understand
That's OK. If the test light lit up then you have 12VDC. Just be methodical about this. Test each wire as I described. Each wire along it's length in both the ON & OFF position(s). If that driver side lamp/bulb is NOT illuminating then you should NOT be getting power to the bulb. You already said this. The driver side lamp/bulb does NOT illuminate is what you have said. How then can it be if the driver side lamp/bulb does NOT illuminate you are measuring 12VDC to the bulb socket. Let this sink in.
your right, I致e messed up then some where along the line. Tomorrow I知 gonna break all this down and start over
your right, I致e messed up then some where along the line. Tomorrow I知 gonna break all this down and start over
Just clear your mind. It might "appear" hard because you're unfamiliar. But, it's one step at a time. Test each wire along it's length at the various locations.
Does the wire have power? Yes/No
Should the wire have power? Yes/No
Just clear your mind. It might "appear" hard because you're unfamiliar. But, it's one step at a time. Test each wire along it's length at the various locations.
Does the wire have power? Yes/No
Should the wire have power? Yes/No
Thats exactly what I知 going to do tonight (clear my mind) because I知 probably just confusing myself. And tomorrow fresh start
Original wire colors will be as per the wiring diagram. With that said, it's your responsibility to "trace" each wire to its location(s). What I'm saying is don't always rely on the color of the wire to represent where it goes - you have to validate the wire, not the color since after 75 years any number of people may have changed wires with any color wire. Due diligence.
February 4th, 2024, 08:51 AM
