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I’m still dealing with that same issue. When I turn on the left signal it turns on both front signals and makes them both very dim. But the right signal works fine and bright. And both back signals and lights work as they should no matter what. I looked at the lever inside the steering wheel and everything looks good. Any thoughts? I’ve looked for a bad ground but can’t find anything
I’m still dealing with that same issue. When I turn on the left signal it turns on both front signals and makes them both very dim. But the right signal works fine and bright. And both back signals and lights work as they should no matter what. I looked at the lever inside the steering wheel and everything looks good. Any thoughts? I’ve looked for a bad ground but can’t find anything
It's a ground problem, the lamp that is supposed to work is getting its ground from the one that is not.
It's a ground problem, the lamp that is supposed to work is getting its ground from the one that is not.
so the one that is dim is ok, it’s the bright one that has the bad ground? Oh and no matter what signal I use, both turn signals on the dash come on always. Could it be the wires going into the steering column?
Oh ok so that part is in the steering column? In front of the radiator there is a strip of wires that have two different connection spots 4 wires on each side. Some of them won’t come out due to corrosion but if sprayed them with pb blast and I’ll see if I can get them loose. The ones I did get loose I touched them to another socket and the lights worked better but not correctly. I’ll have to figure it out more
after lookin in Fusick catalog ( pic ) the 57 Olds uses this switch that was used till 1960 .
this switch has an logated mounting holes that can move just a little , thats were i had my problem .
good luck w your problem ... it took me some time before i fixed mine. it would happen now and again .
check flasher - bulbs-wires and your turn signal switch.... im assuming its behind your streeing wheel .
This is not a turn signal switch. It is the NSS/backup light switch. Chris, you need to go through all the grounds for the lights that are not working correctly.
This is not a turn signal switch. It is the NSS/backup light switch. Chris, you need to go through all the grounds for the lights that are not working correctly.
I corrected my statement regarding a 1998 NSS (I was looking at the image when I posted); but, I believe the 1957 NSS is not same as the 1955 NSS (that being the point) and it's only useful for an automatic.
Chris - Has the car had this peculiar turn signal issue since the first day you bought it or has this developed over time? As Eric suggested earlier, it certainly speaks of a ground issue.
I believe these bulbs are dual-filament double-pin bulbs (1157); but, I'm not 100%. First and importantly validate each bulb is identical before you move forward. NOTE: An 1156 bulb looks nearly identical to an 1157 bulb; but, an 1156 bulb is a single-pin bulb, the 1157 bulb is a double-pin bulb. Look at the bottom of each bulb - they should all be double-pin bulbs. If you have an 1156 bulb inserted into an 1157 socket, you'll short out the filament(s) since those two bottom pins are independent.
(1) With all lights OFF, turn signal switch to OFF, pull the light switch to the first indent position. Validate each signal/parking lamp (bulb) presents with the same lumens (brightness) - e.g. all bulbs should be of equal brightness.
Are all bulbs of equal brightness? Yes/No?
(2) EXACTLY same as #1 above, except pull the light switch to the full ON position until the headlamps illuminate.
(a) Do ALL headlamps illuminate? Yes/No?
(b) Do ALL signal/parking lamps (bulbs) illuminate with the same brightness? Yes/No?
(1) With all lights OFF, turn signal switch to OFF, pull the light switch to the first indent position. Validate each signal/parking lamp (bulb) presents with the same lumens (brightness) - e.g. all bulbs should be of equal brightness.
Are all bulbs of equal brightness? Yes/No?
(2) EXACTLY same as #1 above, except pull the light switch to the full ON position until the headlamps illuminate.
(a) Do ALL headlamps illuminate? Yes/No?
(b) Do ALL signal/parking lamps (bulbs) illuminate with the same brightness? Yes/No?
this has been an issues since I bought the car. in the first light switch position, both tail lights come on bright normal, the front passenger side turn signal lights up bright(that’s the signal that works fine). The driver side signal does not light up at all. When I turn on the signal on drivers side it comes on but very dim and causes the passenger side to come on but dim as well. The passenger side turn signal will work good in any position. On my car when the head lamps are on the parking lights shut off unless used as a signal. When head lights are on both back lights are the same brightness as well as back signals. It’s only the front driver side signal does not come on in the first light position but when turned on by the turn signal switch it will flash dim and cause the pass side to flash dim. Not sure if this has anything to do with it, but on my headlight switch I have a jumper wire going from the head lights terminal to the dash lights terminal because my dash lights wouldn’t work but now they do obviously. And this turn signal issue was like the same thing before I did this jumper wire on the head light switch. So all thoughts work and do as they should and are same brightness until that driver side front signal comes into play. And yes I’ve tried replacing the little fuse on the head light switch didn’t make a difference.
OK, all your sockets are 2-pin sockets & all your bulbs are 2-pin bulbs residing in 2-pin sockets.
Re-read Eric's Post #7 & Post #13. As well, pay attention to what you already stated in your posts - "no matter what signal I use, both turn signals on the dash come on always". This would lead one to suspect you have a ground issue. But, when you explain yourself, please do so with more clarity. When you say "...both turn signals on the dash come on always..." What exactly does this mean? The lights come on or the lights come on & each light actually flashes when it comes on?
There should be a wiring diagram in your Service Manual. It should demonstrate the specific wiring for your entire electrical system. Is it color or is it B&W? It should demonstrate the gauge of wire and the wire routing (schematic). Do you have a wiring diagram in your Service Manual?
There should be a wiring diagram in your Service Manual. It should demonstrate the specific wiring for your entire electrical system. Is it color or is it B&W? It should demonstrate the gauge of wire and the wire routing (schematic). Do you have a wiring diagram in your Service Manual?
when I turn on a turn signal, any one, both arrows on the dash come on. Yes it has a wiring schematic but I’m not to sure how to read it. Wiring and electrical is my weakest area.
Sorry for the shadow. Above where it says turn signal switch, it says there’s a connector, which is what I was talking about earlier, the two that are in front of the radiator support that look corroded and that’s where I’m thinking my issue is but I’m not sure
Glad you posted the diagram. It's very late here & I haven't the time to troubleshoot further. I'll help to fill in later with anything I can add but others have excellent knowledge on troubleshooting. If you have little experience don't expect a quick fix. It's highly likely we'll figure this out not in an hours time sitting from an armchair. I'll provide one piece of advice before I retire. The best device to troubleshoot this issue is going to be a light/circuit tester/probe. I know you have a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) which will read voltage (12VDC). But a circuit tester is by far much simpler & faster to test for grounds in a circuit. They run ~$10 - $15 dollars. You can get one at the big box stores (cheaper) or automotive parts stores (more expensive). Get one with the sharpest point on the probe. It allows you to not only precisely probe for a clean spot to test, but it allows you to probe "into" the wire(s) at any length - much easier/faster. Finally, Chris - try to use better terminology and as much information as possible. Example: It isn't a turn signal when you're talking about a bulb. A bulb is a bulb and the "bulb" illuminates NOT the turn signal. A turn signal is a device as in a switch. A switch actuates a turn signal. A bulb becomes a signal after it passes through a flasher and becomes actuated by the flasher to produce a "signal". Therefore, speak in terms of a bulb or a lamp which either does or does not illuminate. Saves soooooooo much time when you use better/appropriate vocabulary - bulbs/lamps illuminate, turn signals say nothing unless you're talking about the switch and/or the flasher which produce a "signal"; and, remember a turn signal is supposed to "flash", a parking light (bulb/lamp) does not flash. See what I mean? Use the better/correct term(s). Either the dash board lamps/bulbs illuminate or they do not illuminate; either, they flash or they do not flash - wording. Especially since it may not be a ground issue - it could be a bad shorted flasher, still reside in the steering column, etc.
when I turn on a turn signal, any one, both arrows on the dash come on. Yes it has a wiring schematic but I’m not to sure how to read it. Wiring and electrical is my weakest area. Sorry for the shadow. Above where it says turn signal switch, it says there’s a connector, which is what I was talking about earlier, the two that are in front of the radiator support that look corroded and that’s where I’m thinking my issue is but I’m not sure
Here's a case in point. Follow this logic. You stated "...when I turn on a turn signal, any one, both arrow on the dash come on..." why should we have to guess what you mean here? Do both lights (arrows) on the dash illuminate but they they don't FLASH? Or, do they illuminate and flash? You realize dash turn signal indicators are supposed to flash (blink) correct? They aren't supposed to just "come on". Wording, wording, wording.
Here's a case in point. Follow this logic. You stated "...when I turn on a turn signal, any one, both arrow on the dash come on..." why should we have to guess what you mean here? Do both lights (arrows) on the dash illuminate but they they don't FLASH? Or, do they illuminate and flash? You realize dash turn signal indicators are supposed to flash (blink) correct? They aren't supposed to just "come on". Wording, wording, wording.
like I said I’m horrible with electrical so terminology isn’t my forte on this matter but I’ll try to keep it in mind. I did get a test light but I’m not too sure how to use it, does the wire have to be clipped to the battery terminal?? And the dash arrows illuminate and flash
like I said I’m horrible with electrical so terminology isn’t my forte on this matter but I’ll try to keep it in mind. I did get a test light but I’m not too sure how to use it, does the wire have to be clipped to the battery terminal?? And the dash arrows illuminate and flash
Excellent on both counts. You have a test light (great) and the dash lights do flash when illuminated. At any point tell me if I'm wrong. You said the driver side parking lamp bulb does not illuminate when you pull light switch to the first indent position.
Yes or No?
Chris - Backtracking a tiny bit here, it really would benefit us if you could reply to my earlier post. It makes this far easier to isolate and troubleshoot this issue. Just answer Yes or No to the following.
(1) With all lights OFF, turn signal switch to OFF, pull the light switch to the first indent position. Validate each (that mean both front and back) signal/parking lamp (bulb) presents with the same lumens (brightness) - e.g. all bulbs should be of equal brightness.
Are all bulbs of equal brightness? Yes/No?
(2) EXACTLY same as #1 above, except pull the light switch to the full ON position until the headlamps illuminate.
(a) Do ALL headlamps illuminate? Yes/No?
(b) Do ALL signal/parking lamps (bulbs) illuminate with the same brightness? Yes/No?
I did get a test light but I’m not too sure how to use it, does the wire have to be clipped to the battery terminal??
When using the test light/circuit tester.
NOTE: Electrical pathway is this. Electron pathway is always from (out of) negative (-) battery post to (into) positive (+) battery post (for a vehicle which has a negative ground circuitry). Your vehicle has a negative ground circuity.
You have two items on the test light - (1) One sharp pointed end & (2) One alligator clip. First, convince yourself the test light works and gain familiarity with how it works. To do this connect alligator clip to battery negative (-) post terminal, touch the pointed probe to the battery positive (+) post terminal. The light should illuminate which demonstrate a complete unobstructed path of electron flow from negative to positive. Confirm the bulb illuminates and we'll move further along.
The above test is same if you used the DMM (Digital Multi Meter). You connect the DMM red lead to the battery (+) post terminal, DMM black lead to the battery (-) post. DMM reading = 12VDC.
Two things about this test: (1) Demonstrates you have 12VDC & (2) the circuit is continuous between the two points you measured.
The circuit/wire tests are w/ the battery connected. Just remember electron flow (pathway) is FROM (-) battery post terminal TO (+) battery post terminal. You're looking for wire(s) which should have 12VDC and wire's which should NOT have 12VDC.
We discussed this in another thread of yours - I'll re-acquaint you with the basics. The battery negative terminal is your ground. Recall it connects to the metal on your car i.e. engine block, chassis &/or frame (remember that firewall braided wire?). All electron flow is from the (-) battery post terminal through ALL metal on your car. With that being said, note how you tested the test light - alligator clip to (-) battery post terminal pointed probe to (+) battery post terminal. Therefore, it follows if the (-) battery post terminal is connected to the engine block, chassis, frame, firewall, etc. - then ALL metal on the car is your NEGATIVE pathway - ALL metal on the car - not just a few pieces, ALL metal is your negative ground side of the circuit.
NOTE: If the driver side parking bulb does not illuminate when the light switch is pulled outward to the first indent position - you have your 1st issue. There is a fault with that wire's circuit. Where is the fault location is what you want to address.
Excellent on both counts. You have a test light (great) and the dash lights do flash when illuminated. At any point tell me if I'm wrong. You said the driver side parking lamp bulb does not illuminate when you pull light switch to the first indent position.
Yes or No?
correct the front driver side parking lamp doesn’t illuminate in the first on position on the headlight switch
You can attach the alligator clip to any CLEAN piece of metal on the chassis, engine block, frame &/or firewall - including the METAL dashboard. Since they should ALL be connected to each from the battery (-) post terminal - they are ALL the ground (-) side of your car's electrical circuitry. The entire vehicle's ground path is the bare metal of the vehicle. This then, represents why you can connect the alligator clip anywhere to bar piece of metal. It occurs anywhere there is clean bare metal (assuming your negative battery post terminal has its negative battery post terminal connected to the block, chassis, frame & firewall (NOTE: the metal dashboard is "grounded" to the firewall location). The dashboard metal is a ground (-) negative source.
With the alligator clip connected to a metal (ground) source anywhere on the car, you can then use the pointed test light probe to test for 12VDC voltage on any wire of the car. You can make that test "into" (stick the pointed probe "into") any wire anywhere on the car which comes FROM (connects to) the battery positive (+) post terminal, at the "end" of the wire you're testing, on bulb socket location, radio, horn, etc. So, to recap - alligator clip attached to any metal source = the (-) negative ground circuit of your car; when you "probe" with the pointed end of the circuit test light, you probe the positive (+) side of the circuit and the test light bulb should illuminate demonstrating a circuit path between negative (-) and positive (+). This is not the ONLY pathway to evaluate, but it is the essentials of the diagnostics to find your issue. Go ahead and try it. Take any two points where a wire should have 12VDC (like the battery you already tested you know it works). Test a head light (lights ON, alligator clip connected to metal chassis, etc.) probe the headlamp wire the light should illuminate. You're going to run this test against each wire to find your issue. The 1st place is going to be your non-functional driver side wire since your driver side parking lamp/bulb does not illuminate.
Nothing mysterious about this but I'll explain the basics:
(1) All wires are positive (+) wires. They are color coded with the correct amperage gauge. Remember this - they are the positive (+) wires.
(2) Note this (below) symbol. This symbol represents the ground side of the circuit. Since the car has a negative (-) ground anywhere you witness this symbol is an indication that is where the ground (-) side of the circuit is located. It "could" be a wire, it "could" be an attachment point (e.g. light/bulb sockets are attached to metal on the car either by a wire or by "direct" attachment to the metal of the car). In any case, that symbol represents the ground attachment point of the circuitry.
You're going to probe between a (-) negative ground source and a positive (+) source (wire) locating a wire &/or attachment point which should have 12VDC or should NOT have 12VDC. That driver side parking lamp bulb should illuminate when the light switch is pulled to the first indent position. Everything else on the car should be OFF, battery connected start probing that wire and the socket that wire leads to. That wire should have 12VDC - probe the wire with the pointed probe. Does it have 12VDC (test light illuminate) anywhere on that wire? It should find out why it doesn't.
You got this. Simple case of finding the issue and the issue (thus far) is this:
You have no voltage to the front LH driver side bulb. You need to demonstrate this to yourself by probing with the test/circuit tester where there does (should) exist 12VDC and the point where there does not exist 12VDC. You should have 12VDC to that bulb when the battery is connected and the light switch is in the first indent position.
Begin probing that wire at the locations demonstrated by the red arrows. Where is there a break in that wire? Where does that wire touch another wire? Where does that wire connect to a wire it should not connect to? Or, most likely - where is the ground fault in that wire?
>90% or wiring issues reside in the ground side of the circuit e.g. the ground is bad, incorrect/faulty. Parking lamp/bulb sockets most often become corroded and lost their ground (they're rusty and need cleaned), a ground wire is broken (no contact), the socket is broken, the two (or one) socket terminal pin(s) are corroded and barely hanging on. Be methodical, alligator clip to a solid clean piece of metal (ground) & probe with the pointed end of probe that yellow wire & the two pins of that socket until you find the issue. Replicate this same probing on the RH passenger side and convince yourself the other side has a working bulb which illuminates. You got this. A little learning, a little probing you'll have this in no time.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; February 4th, 2024 at 08:46 AM.
February 1st, 2024, 09:25 AM
