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Old Aug 29, 2025 | 01:50 PM
  #1  
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Relay


I believe my relay is burn out.
Does anyone reproduce these.
67 olds ninety eight
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 02:21 PM
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That is a 20 amp circuit breaker, not a relay. Yes, they are readily available if yours is bad. Why do you think it is bad? If it has a connection across both terminals it is likely fine.
Amazon Amazon

Old Aug 29, 2025 | 02:35 PM
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Yes, it is likely okay but over time it could be where it opens under a weaker load.
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 03:06 PM
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Well i replace that with a 35 amp fuse and it popped.
so I have a short.
Any likely areas i should look first.
Thanks
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 03:33 PM
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Which circuit is it powering in the fuse box?
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Loaded68W34
Which circuit is it powering in the fuse box?
power windows
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 04:26 PM
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I would start by disconnecting the main switch on the drivers door. If it still pops, the short is somewhere in the power to the switch.
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 04:55 PM
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Does this car have an electric antenna? If so, is the electric antenna operable?
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 05:08 PM
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Apparently, the Oldsmobile 1967 model year wiring diagram is an orphan - implying unlike nearly every other Oldsmobile model year where PW wiring diagrams are included in the Fisher Body Service manuals - the 1967 PW wiring diagram in contained in the CSM. To that end, note the PW circuit which (I find hard to believe) also includes the electric antenna - e.g. note the "splice" into the PW circuit. The wiring diagram for 1967 is not one of Oldsmobile's finest moments. There are a couple places the circuit may be compromised. I'd use a simple circuit test light to troubleshoot.

Jaunty published the Oldsmobile 1967 98 wiring diagram located here (below link):

67 Oldsmobile 98 convertible wiring schematic
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by redoldsman
I would start by disconnecting the main switch on the drivers door. If it still pops, the short is somewhere in the power to the switch.
Main power also runs to each of the single window switches on the other 3 windows so it could be those as well.
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 05:18 PM
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That makes sense, thanks for the information.
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 05:51 PM
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A breaker is not a fuse. 2 totally different things!
Old Aug 30, 2025 | 05:59 AM
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When does the fuse go?

battery connected or ignition on?
Old Aug 30, 2025 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Koda
When does the fuse go?

battery connected or ignition on?
when I push the windows up or down
Old Aug 30, 2025 | 05:48 PM
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Old Aug 30, 2025 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by wills30
when I push the windows up or down
Ok, then your short is past one of the switches. Try different windows from their switches. My money is on a dead short motor.
Old Aug 31, 2025 | 09:33 AM
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I'm grounding out in the fuse box.
I plugged a fuse in ,with a test light and power not following threw./ sparks when i had key on and attached the fuse into the circuit. Why or how am I grounding out their?
Old Aug 31, 2025 | 12:31 PM
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Please answer Post #8.
Old Aug 31, 2025 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Does this car have an electric antenna? If so, is the electric antenna operable?
yes and some stole the antenna
Old Aug 31, 2025 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by wills30
yes and some stole the antenna
The car came equipped w/ a factory electric antenna which was stolen at some point in time. As I’ve previously mentioned (wiring diagram) the electric antenna is wired (spliced) into the same wiring as PW circuit (see wiring diagram). This means the wire(s) attached to the electric antenna [both (+) & (-)] are suspect and feed from the same fuse as the PW circuit.
Old Aug 31, 2025 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
The car came equipped w/ a factory electric antenna which was stolen at some point in time. As I’ve previously mentioned (wiring diagram) the electric antenna is wired (spliced) into the same wiring as PW circuit (see wiring diagram). This means the wire(s) attached to the electric antenna [both (+) & (-)] are suspect and feed from the same fuse as the PW circuit.
So can i unplug the antenna or can i remove the fuse for the radio
Old Aug 31, 2025 | 01:38 PM
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At this moment, I can't get any power to the window switch, and the power window fuse only has power on one side of the fuse. And I believe the breaker is burnt or dead.and a 35 amp fuse breaks while moving the windows up or down
Old Aug 31, 2025 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wills30
So can i unplug the antenna or can i remove the fuse for the radio
The radio is on a circuit separate from the electric antenna & PW (see diagrams below). Both the radio & the elec. ant. each have their own separate ground (-) located on each of two separate circuits. No need to remove the radio fuse or disconnect the radio.

Viewing the wiring diagram it appears this is a two branch circuit: elec. ant. & PW residing w/in the same circuit on two separate branches.

I would examine point(s) of attachment(s) for both the negative/ground (-) wire & the positive/power (+) wire at the elect. ant. Possibility the elec. ant. has a ground short (e.g. short-to-ground) - current is flowing to the vehicle's body instead of staying within the circuit. Examine the wires. Ensure the ground (-) wire is only connected to body metal, ensure the power (+) wire is not touching any body metal or the ground wire. Best if you can completely isolate each of the elect. ant. wires (both positive & negative). This may prove useful or it may not prove useful, the issue might still remain in the PW branch. I suggest there may be a greater likelihood the issue could reside w/ the elect. ant. (branch) knowing now the elect. ant. is non-functional (doesn't exist) & was stolen. No telling from an arm chair what the electrical wires, connections, etc. reveal, yet this branch is ever more suspect.





Last edited by Vintage Chief; Aug 31, 2025 at 03:39 PM. Reason: Add images
Old Aug 31, 2025 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
The radio is on a circuit separate from the electric antenna & PW (see diagrams below). Both the radio & the elec. ant. each have their own separate ground (-) located on each of two separate circuits. No need to remove the radio fuse or disconnect the radio.

Viewing the wiring diagram it appears this is a two branch circuit: elec. ant. & PW residing w/in the same circuit on two separate branches.

I would examine point(s) of attachment(s) for both the negative/ground (-) wire & the positive/power (+) wire at the elect. ant. Possibility the elec. ant. has a ground short (e.g. short-to-ground) - current is flowing to the vehicle's body instead of staying within the circuit. Examine the wires. Ensure the ground (-) wire is only connected to body metal, ensure the power (+) wire is not touching any body metal or the ground wire. Best if you can completely isolate each of the elect. ant. wires (both positive & negative). This may prove useful or it may not prove useful, the issue might still remain in the PW branch. I suggest there may be a greater likelihood the issue could reside w/ the elect. ant. (branch) knowing now the elect. ant. is non-functional (doesn't exist) & was stolen. No telling from an arm chair what the electrical wires, connections, etc. reveal, yet this branch is ever more suspect.

thank you.
Your second photo i can't read the fine print.
But , if I'm reading correctly the brown wire is the feed
Old Aug 31, 2025 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by wills30
thank you.
Your second photo i can't read the fine print.
But , if I'm reading correctly the brown wire is the feed
Unfortunately, I don't own the original wiring diagram. Yes, the brown wire is the power feed. You can gain a little better readability if you use your Browser to "zoom" into the wiring diagram image.
Old Aug 31, 2025 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Unfortunately, I don't own the original wiring diagram. Yes, the brown wire is the power feed. You can gain a little better readability if you use your Browser to "zoom" into the wiring diagram image.
I was. But my eyes and the zoom weren't working together
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