Progression HEI distributor install
#1
Progression HEI distributor install
I am replacing my Points Distributor in my 72 cutlass convertible with a Progression HEI
I know I need to run a new separate 12 volt ignition wire to the new distributor but not sure if I can splice the yellow starter solenoid wire from the coil into the same circuit.
anyone who has done this upgrade, I would appreciate any help.
A rough wiring diagram would be great LOL
I know I need to run a new separate 12 volt ignition wire to the new distributor but not sure if I can splice the yellow starter solenoid wire from the coil into the same circuit.
anyone who has done this upgrade, I would appreciate any help.
A rough wiring diagram would be great LOL
#3
That is what I was hoping would be the answer, same with the Points resistance wire.
Now I just need to wait for the female to double male connectors so I can use the already in use IGN connection in the Fuse Block
#4
#5
Now if I had known that my air cleaner wouldn't fit with the HEI
Does anyone know if someone makes a spacer for clearance or do I need to switch to an Edelbrock open element ?
Pretty !!!
Installed, still need to install new Plug wires
Need to connect 12 volt at IGN
Original Points Distributor
Original Distributor Part number
converted to Pertronix Ignitor LS module
Does anyone know if someone makes a spacer for clearance or do I need to switch to an Edelbrock open element ?
Pretty !!!
Installed, still need to install new Plug wires
Need to connect 12 volt at IGN
Original Points Distributor
Original Distributor Part number
converted to Pertronix Ignitor LS module
#8
Modify the air filter assembly
Now if I had known that my air cleaner wouldn't fit with the HEI
Does anyone know if someone makes a spacer for clearance or do I need to switch to an Edelbrock open element ?
Pretty !!!
Installed, still need to install new Plug wires
Need to connect 12 volt at IGN
Original Points Distributor
Original Distributor Part number
converted to Pertronix Ignitor LS module
Does anyone know if someone makes a spacer for clearance or do I need to switch to an Edelbrock open element ?
Pretty !!!
Installed, still need to install new Plug wires
Need to connect 12 volt at IGN
Original Points Distributor
Original Distributor Part number
converted to Pertronix Ignitor LS module
#11
Looks good. That’s how I dealt with that issue on my air cleaner housing as a spacer wouldn’t work due to tolerance with OAI. As a matter of fact I had to “mush” my factory air cleaner into a lower profile to accommodate aftermarket manifold’s increased height. Definitely was a balancing act.
In the red car, with Performer and ‘68 style OAI we simply used a Chevelle cowl induction spacer. Didn’t want to cut and weld on that housing. After changing to an RPM I can’t remember if it was needed anymore to clear the HEI but it may still be in there too. Just put the snow tires, etc on the other day but never looked at the air cleaner except to remove the intake ducts for the winter.
….
In the red car, with Performer and ‘68 style OAI we simply used a Chevelle cowl induction spacer. Didn’t want to cut and weld on that housing. After changing to an RPM I can’t remember if it was needed anymore to clear the HEI but it may still be in there too. Just put the snow tires, etc on the other day but never looked at the air cleaner except to remove the intake ducts for the winter.
….
Last edited by bccan; December 7th, 2021 at 06:46 PM.
#14
X3 how easy was the digital setup?
Be real interested in the performance.
What was the to your door cost?
You can electronically dial in multiple tables on the fly, start retard, theft kill switch all on your smart phone! I want one now...that's the cat's azz.
Be real interested in the performance.
What was the to your door cost?
You can electronically dial in multiple tables on the fly, start retard, theft kill switch all on your smart phone! I want one now...that's the cat's azz.
#15
#17
$460.43 delivered
So far it has done everything as advertised. I am still chasing down some carb issues (lean condition) but the performance once installed, acceleration was greatly improved
Initial set-up is: Idle speed 1100 RPM, Idle timing 13*, Max RPM timing 34* All in at 3000 RPM
I have been making small adjustments to all the settings to see what works best.
Car has been put away for the winter, so will get back at it in the spring.
So far it has done everything as advertised. I am still chasing down some carb issues (lean condition) but the performance once installed, acceleration was greatly improved
Initial set-up is: Idle speed 1100 RPM, Idle timing 13*, Max RPM timing 34* All in at 3000 RPM
I have been making small adjustments to all the settings to see what works best.
Car has been put away for the winter, so will get back at it in the spring.
Last edited by Schne442; December 8th, 2021 at 07:07 PM.
#19
Gary why 1100 RPM idle? Isn't the engine starting to come up on the converter at that RPM?
Really just a curiosity question as I see a lot of guys here that say set idle at 1100, (because that's what the tune sticker and manual state...70 71 72+ eras).
Never in my 400 years of engine tuning have I ever had the need to set idle speed over ~750, (on a normal to mild street engine, including smog-era & A/C or no A/C).
Gota shift into D or R rather aggressively, no?
I understand that RPM with a large(r) cam higher stall converter.
What would happen to your tune if you pulled the RPM down to 700?
Have you played around with that at all?
When you let off the brake at a stop does the car want to take off on its own (creep)?
Regardless of my drilling that really looks like the Kats AZZ! Might buy my own xmas gift this year.
Steve
Really just a curiosity question as I see a lot of guys here that say set idle at 1100, (because that's what the tune sticker and manual state...70 71 72+ eras).
Never in my 400 years of engine tuning have I ever had the need to set idle speed over ~750, (on a normal to mild street engine, including smog-era & A/C or no A/C).
Gota shift into D or R rather aggressively, no?
I understand that RPM with a large(r) cam higher stall converter.
What would happen to your tune if you pulled the RPM down to 700?
Have you played around with that at all?
When you let off the brake at a stop does the car want to take off on its own (creep)?
Regardless of my drilling that really looks like the Kats AZZ! Might buy my own xmas gift this year.
Steve
#20
I havent changed my settings in awhile but the idle speed setting on the program is the starting point for the timing table, actual idle rpm is not dictated by that setting.
Last edited by woodie582; December 9th, 2021 at 10:46 AM. Reason: spelling
#21
The tune up spec says to set the initial timing at that RPM, not the actual idle speed. From what I recall, the idle speed is 625 RPM for an automatic.
#22
I have had one on my 455 cutlass for almost two years and it hasn’t missed a beat. The adjustability on the fly is fantastic. I have several tunes stored on my phone and can load one while sitting in the driveway with the engine running. You can do it while driving i suppose but I have this thing about cell phone usage while driving. I even made a 87 octane tune in case 91 isn't available. You can feel the drop in performance but it will not ping. The thing I noticed right away was the way it starts. It won’t add the idle timing until it sees 350 rpm and when it does the engine jumps to life. It never started like that before. Overall very pleased with it. There is my feedback.
#23
Gary why 1100 RPM idle? Isn't the engine starting to come up on the converter at that RPM?
Really just a curiosity question as I see a lot of guys here that say set idle at 1100, (because that's what the tune sticker and manual state...70 71 72+ eras).
Never in my 400 years of engine tuning have I ever had the need to set idle speed over ~750, (on a normal to mild street engine, including smog-era & A/C or no A/C).
Gota shift into D or R rather aggressively, no?
I understand that RPM with a large(r) cam higher stall converter.
What would happen to your tune if you pulled the RPM down to 700?
Have you played around with that at all?
When you let off the brake at a stop does the car want to take off on its own (creep)?
Regardless of my drilling that really looks like the Kats AZZ! Might buy my own xmas gift this year.
Steve
Really just a curiosity question as I see a lot of guys here that say set idle at 1100, (because that's what the tune sticker and manual state...70 71 72+ eras).
Never in my 400 years of engine tuning have I ever had the need to set idle speed over ~750, (on a normal to mild street engine, including smog-era & A/C or no A/C).
Gota shift into D or R rather aggressively, no?
I understand that RPM with a large(r) cam higher stall converter.
What would happen to your tune if you pulled the RPM down to 700?
Have you played around with that at all?
When you let off the brake at a stop does the car want to take off on its own (creep)?
Regardless of my drilling that really looks like the Kats AZZ! Might buy my own xmas gift this year.
Steve
I set it to 1100 because just as you stated, That is the timing idle setting. I have had it at 850 also but when I put the car away for the winter 1100 is where I left it.
I have watched every YouTube video on this that I could find and they all show how to use it but no recommendations on particular engine setups
I was not all that successful on setting up my traditional distributor and the main reason I changed from my original distributor was for the ease of adjusting this one.
So for the guys who already have one of these any suggestions for setting it up, I am sure would be appreciated by others also.
I guess EFI will be next if I cant figure out my Quadrajet
#25
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