Electronic Distributor Swap Guide
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Joined: Sep 2012
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Electronic Distributor Swap Guide
For those who can confirm, I am interested in swapping my points distributor for a self-contained GM electronic distributor from an appropriate donor car. I can't afford a new aftermarket $500 distributor but I would be interested in a $50 junkyard part from a later model. I have a 1963 394 and I would like to confirm the following:
Via Hemming's:
"1961-'63 Olds 215 and 394 engines as well as 1965-'74 Olds 350 and 400 engines can use a unit from a 1974-'79 Olds 260, Olds 350 "R" engine, 403 (except Toronado) or Olds 455 as well as the distributor from a 1982-'87; Olds 307.
The General Motors distributor exchange is probably the easiest, because all components of the electronic ignition system are contained within the distributor. The ignition coil sits atop the distributor cap and is connected to the pickup coil by one harness, which plugs directly into the terminals on the end of the coil. The control module is attached to the other end of the harness and is located inside the distributor under the pickup assembly. The only external wiring necessary to install this ignition system is one hot wire from the "run" terminal on the ignition switch, which attaches right next to the pickup coil harness at the end of the coil. With the exception of a tachometer wire, all other wiring is self-contained. Because you are exchanging the entire system at once, you will be using the electronic coil, which will deliver a much higher voltage to your ignition wires and spark plugs, giving you a much hotter spark. When searching for the correct distributor, you need only find one from the same engine family."
Via Hemming's:
"1961-'63 Olds 215 and 394 engines as well as 1965-'74 Olds 350 and 400 engines can use a unit from a 1974-'79 Olds 260, Olds 350 "R" engine, 403 (except Toronado) or Olds 455 as well as the distributor from a 1982-'87; Olds 307.
The General Motors distributor exchange is probably the easiest, because all components of the electronic ignition system are contained within the distributor. The ignition coil sits atop the distributor cap and is connected to the pickup coil by one harness, which plugs directly into the terminals on the end of the coil. The control module is attached to the other end of the harness and is located inside the distributor under the pickup assembly. The only external wiring necessary to install this ignition system is one hot wire from the "run" terminal on the ignition switch, which attaches right next to the pickup coil harness at the end of the coil. With the exception of a tachometer wire, all other wiring is self-contained. Because you are exchanging the entire system at once, you will be using the electronic coil, which will deliver a much higher voltage to your ignition wires and spark plugs, giving you a much hotter spark. When searching for the correct distributor, you need only find one from the same engine family."
Last edited by BradyB; Sep 19, 2012 at 07:24 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,057
From: Shorewood, Il.
It's pretty self-explanitory to me. I know you can't use the ballast resistor on that setup - must be the direct 12 volts before the resistor.
If in doubt, bring the old one with you, and compare.
Use the best gear out of the two - easy to change.
If in doubt, bring the old one with you, and compare.
Use the best gear out of the two - easy to change.
Just the facts...
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,259
From: THE GREAT WIDE-OPEN
the '82-87 307(don't know why they cut it off there) won't work for you unless you install the rest of the C3 system. i highly doubt you'll want to do that. the distributor you want has 3 wires running from the base to the cap, only, no other wires/connections to the base.
you'll need to find a terminal that has FULL 12 volts during run AND start, use a 12 gauge wire for the power going to the HEI. also, try to find one that closely matches your engine's existing advance curve(vacuum & mechanical). if not, have one recurved to your engine's specs. with the vintage of your motor, you may need to have the distributor gear shaved at the bottom as i think your distributor has a gasket between the block and the distributor base. when you go shopping at the boneyard, pick a unit that has nice, tight bushings(no axial movement between the distributor body and shaft) and the mechanical advance system moves freely, but not sloppily. make sure the shaft spins easily without making noise. better bet... get 2 while you're there-instant spare parts!
bill
you'll need to find a terminal that has FULL 12 volts during run AND start, use a 12 gauge wire for the power going to the HEI. also, try to find one that closely matches your engine's existing advance curve(vacuum & mechanical). if not, have one recurved to your engine's specs. with the vintage of your motor, you may need to have the distributor gear shaved at the bottom as i think your distributor has a gasket between the block and the distributor base. when you go shopping at the boneyard, pick a unit that has nice, tight bushings(no axial movement between the distributor body and shaft) and the mechanical advance system moves freely, but not sloppily. make sure the shaft spins easily without making noise. better bet... get 2 while you're there-instant spare parts!
bill
Last edited by BILL DEMMER; Sep 19, 2012 at 08:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 49
the '82-87 307(don't know why they cut it off there) won't work for you unless you install the rest of the C3 system. i highly doubt you'll want to do that. the distributor you want has 3 wires running from the base to the cap, only, no other wires/connections to the base.
you'll need to find a terminal that has FULL 12 volts during run AND start, use a 12 gauge wire for the power going to the HEI. also, try to find one that closely matches your engine's existing advance curve(vacuum & mechanical). if not, have one recurved to your engine's specs. with the vintage of your motor, you may need to have the distributor gear shaved at the bottom as i think your distributor has a gasket between the block and the distributor base. when you go shopping at the boneyard, pick a unit that has nice, tight bushings(no axial movement between the distributor body and shaft) and the mechanical advance system moves freely, but not sloppily. make sure the shaft spins easily without making noise. better bet... get 2 while you're there-instant spare parts!
bill
you'll need to find a terminal that has FULL 12 volts during run AND start, use a 12 gauge wire for the power going to the HEI. also, try to find one that closely matches your engine's existing advance curve(vacuum & mechanical). if not, have one recurved to your engine's specs. with the vintage of your motor, you may need to have the distributor gear shaved at the bottom as i think your distributor has a gasket between the block and the distributor base. when you go shopping at the boneyard, pick a unit that has nice, tight bushings(no axial movement between the distributor body and shaft) and the mechanical advance system moves freely, but not sloppily. make sure the shaft spins easily without making noise. better bet... get 2 while you're there-instant spare parts!
bill
72 Olds CS
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,657
fyi pertronix makes an assembly for most distributors that replaces the points w electronics you keep your original distributor
this is a simple replacement that fits under your dist cap.
this is another option to an HEI for e ignition
this is a simple replacement that fits under your dist cap.
this is another option to an HEI for e ignition
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,802
From: Northern VA
Via Hemming's:
"1961-'63 Olds 215 and 394 engines as well as 1965-'74 Olds 350 and 400 engines can use a unit from a 1974-'79 Olds 260, Olds 350 "R" engine, 403 (except Toronado) or Olds 455 as well as the distributor from a 1982-'87; Olds 307.
The General Motors distributor exchange is probably the easiest, because all components of the electronic ignition system are contained within the distributor. The ignition coil sits atop the distributor cap and is connected to the pickup coil by one harness, which plugs directly into the terminals on the end of the coil. The control module is attached to the other end of the harness and is located inside the distributor under the pickup assembly. The only external wiring necessary to install this ignition system is one hot wire from the "run" terminal on the ignition switch, which attaches right next to the pickup coil harness at the end of the coil. With the exception of a tachometer wire, all other wiring is self-contained. Because you are exchanging the entire system at once, you will be using the electronic coil, which will deliver a much higher voltage to your ignition wires and spark plugs, giving you a much hotter spark. When searching for the correct distributor, you need only find one from the same engine family."
"1961-'63 Olds 215 and 394 engines as well as 1965-'74 Olds 350 and 400 engines can use a unit from a 1974-'79 Olds 260, Olds 350 "R" engine, 403 (except Toronado) or Olds 455 as well as the distributor from a 1982-'87; Olds 307.
The General Motors distributor exchange is probably the easiest, because all components of the electronic ignition system are contained within the distributor. The ignition coil sits atop the distributor cap and is connected to the pickup coil by one harness, which plugs directly into the terminals on the end of the coil. The control module is attached to the other end of the harness and is located inside the distributor under the pickup assembly. The only external wiring necessary to install this ignition system is one hot wire from the "run" terminal on the ignition switch, which attaches right next to the pickup coil harness at the end of the coil. With the exception of a tachometer wire, all other wiring is self-contained. Because you are exchanging the entire system at once, you will be using the electronic coil, which will deliver a much higher voltage to your ignition wires and spark plugs, giving you a much hotter spark. When searching for the correct distributor, you need only find one from the same engine family."
This is COMPLETE crap!
The 215 is a BUICK-designed motor and can use a BUICK small block HEI. An Olds distributor won't fit and uses a completely different drive for the oil pump (hex vs a blade type drive on the distributor gear). Distributors for the first gen Olds V8s are different from those on the second gen V8s. ANY HEI that does not have a vacuum advance cannister is computer controlled and will only work with the compete computer system. THIS is why I dropped my subscription to Hemminngs magazines.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 49
Wow!
This is COMPLETE crap!
The 215 is a BUICK-designed motor and can use a BUICK small block HEI. An Olds distributor won't fit and uses a completely different drive for the oil pump (hex vs a blade type drive on the distributor gear). Distributors for the first gen Olds V8s are different from those on the second gen V8s. ANY HEI that does not have a vacuum advance cannister is computer controlled and will only work with the compete computer system. THIS is why I dropped my subscription to Hemminngs magazines.
This is COMPLETE crap!
The 215 is a BUICK-designed motor and can use a BUICK small block HEI. An Olds distributor won't fit and uses a completely different drive for the oil pump (hex vs a blade type drive on the distributor gear). Distributors for the first gen Olds V8s are different from those on the second gen V8s. ANY HEI that does not have a vacuum advance cannister is computer controlled and will only work with the compete computer system. THIS is why I dropped my subscription to Hemminngs magazines.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Wow!
This is COMPLETE crap!
The 215 is a BUICK-designed motor and can use a BUICK small block HEI. An Olds distributor won't fit and uses a completely different drive for the oil pump (hex vs a blade type drive on the distributor gear). Distributors for the first gen Olds V8s are different from those on the second gen V8s. ANY HEI that does not have a vacuum advance cannister is computer controlled and will only work with the compete computer system. THIS is why I dropped my subscription to Hemminngs magazines.
This is COMPLETE crap!
The 215 is a BUICK-designed motor and can use a BUICK small block HEI. An Olds distributor won't fit and uses a completely different drive for the oil pump (hex vs a blade type drive on the distributor gear). Distributors for the first gen Olds V8s are different from those on the second gen V8s. ANY HEI that does not have a vacuum advance cannister is computer controlled and will only work with the compete computer system. THIS is why I dropped my subscription to Hemminngs magazines.
"when you go shopping at the boneyard, pick a unit that has nice, tight bushings(no axial movement between the distributor body and shaft) and the mechanical advance system moves freely, but not sloppily. "
==========
AXIAL play? not likely. SIDEWAYS play, you will find. There's no axial load on the distributor housing. That's Chevy voodoo. They [Chevy] put the dist'r on the wrong side of the cam and therefore shove the gear up against the distributor.
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