Powering aftermarket stereo deck
#1
Powering aftermarket stereo deck
I am going to be installing my Alpine CDE-102 head unit into my 68 Cutlass soon but I have a question on the best way to run a +12V to the head unit harness. Is the only way to cut the existing red wire that goes to the original stock radio (which is still working) and directly hook it up that way or can I tap into the radio fuse on the panel and run a power wire from there by wedging a terminal between the fuse and clamp. Advice would be great. Thanks
#2
I believe the '68 has the IGN and ACC male spade terminals in the fuse block.
Just connect to these with female spade connectors, and you should be good to go.
Separate amplifiers should, of course, be connected directly to the battery or a heavy feed line with fused wires.
- Eric
Just connect to these with female spade connectors, and you should be good to go.
Separate amplifiers should, of course, be connected directly to the battery or a heavy feed line with fused wires.
- Eric
#3
I believe the '68 has the IGN and ACC male spade terminals in the fuse block.
Just connect to these with female spade connectors, and you should be good to go.
Separate amplifiers should, of course, be connected directly to the battery or a heavy feed line with fused wires.
- Eric
Just connect to these with female spade connectors, and you should be good to go.
Separate amplifiers should, of course, be connected directly to the battery or a heavy feed line with fused wires.
- Eric
IMG00129.jpg
#4
Factory harnesses that plug into those terminals usually have a new male terminal pigtailed off of them, so you can connect more than one accessory.
If not, you can add one to the factory wire, then connect your new wire to that, or
you can connect a pigtail to your new radio wire, and then connect the factory wire to yours.
If you do the latter, be sure to use heavy enough wire.
Also, those fuse clips look a bit rusty, and may benefit from a bit of a cleaning with a MotoTool with a tiny wire brush wheel.
- Eric
If not, you can add one to the factory wire, then connect your new wire to that, or
you can connect a pigtail to your new radio wire, and then connect the factory wire to yours.
If you do the latter, be sure to use heavy enough wire.
Also, those fuse clips look a bit rusty, and may benefit from a bit of a cleaning with a MotoTool with a tiny wire brush wheel.
- Eric
#5
Don't use T-taps or tap into any wires.
From what I was told about loose connections and heat buildup = fire risk, it's not recommended.
Either splice into them with crimps and solder and heat shrink, or run new wires.
Go straight from any open terminals on your fuse block
From what I was told about loose connections and heat buildup = fire risk, it's not recommended.
Either splice into them with crimps and solder and heat shrink, or run new wires.
Go straight from any open terminals on your fuse block
#6
Last edited by yeahbuddy; January 12th, 2011 at 03:26 PM.
#7
- Ascertain the gauge of the existing power accessories wire.
I believe it is 12ga, but the wiring diagram in your manual will tell you the size. - Solder a wire about 3-4" long to a female ¼" spade terminal, along with the wire for your radio.
It is best to use a terminal made for the size wire you are using (12ga acc wire + 18ga radio wire = about 10ga), but you probably won't find one that big.
Use the biggest one you can find, twist all the strands of both wires together, put as many as possible into the receptacle in the terminal, wrap the remaining strands against the outside, and solder it all together, being careful not to let solder run into the channels of the spade portion, or it will fill it up. - Solder a male ¼" spade terminal to the end of the short wire, and connect the existing power harness to that.
- Use shrink tubing to insulate your connections if at all possible - tape unravels over time.
- Eric
edit:
You edited yours, so I'll edit mine...
I don't think any of those terminal adapters will work on the recessed male spade connectors in the fuse block because they're in a bit too deep, but if one will go all the way onto the terminal and not interfere with the fuse terminals around it, that would work, too.
Last edited by MDchanic; January 12th, 2011 at 03:30 PM.
#8
You edited yours, so I'll edit mine...
I don't think any of those terminal adapters will work on the recessed male spade connectors in the fuse block because they're in a bit too deep, but if one will go all the way onto the terminal and not interfere with the fuse terminals around it, that would work, too.
I don't think any of those terminal adapters will work on the recessed male spade connectors in the fuse block because they're in a bit too deep, but if one will go all the way onto the terminal and not interfere with the fuse terminals around it, that would work, too.
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December 25th, 2012 01:37 PM